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Discussion Starter #1
Hey GTOers,

I'm going to attempt to cut my rear fenders so my tires don't rub. I can't seem to find the spot welds that everyone has mentioned before in previous threads. What exactly do they look like? Here are some pictures of my fender lip. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Passenger side rear fender went well with my angle grinder and a cut off wheel. I used a Dremel and a grinding stone to clean it up afterwards. Matching paint should arrive tomorrow.
 

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How not did you get them to keep the paint from cracking? I already have some cracking along the lip.
I got a little spiderwebbing in the paint right where it folded over but it didn't chip off. I got the paint really hot with a heat gun (about 140°F) and kept checking it with an infrared heat thermometer. Slow process but worked pretty well.
 

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When I cut my fenders I didn't go all the way down to the spot welds. Only cut from about 10 o'clock to 2 o'clock leaving 1/8-1/4" of fender lip.

I also left the wheel/tire mounted on the car and used it as a guide. Helped keep the angle grinder from bouncing out of the cut. Used an abrasive cutting disk, shallow cuts, stopping often to keep the heat down. I also laid a went towel on the fender to help keep things cool.
 

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I cut past the welds so I guess I'm smurfed. It was tough trying to fit a 285 with a 53 offset. It rubs when people ride in the car but who needs passengers?
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
When I cut my fenders I didn't go all the way down to the spot welds. Only cut from about 10 o'clock to 2 o'clock leaving 1/8-1/4" of fender lip.

I also left the wheel/tire mounted on the car and used it as a guide. Helped keep the angle grinder from bouncing out of the cut. Used an abrasive cutting disk, shallow cuts, stopping often to keep the heat down. I also laid a went towel on the fender to help keep things cool.
I used a towel as well, it definitely helped. My existing fender lip is an inch wide, the spot welds were smack dab in the middle of it, I only took off about a quarter of an inch and I was cutting into them. It must be different for every car.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hey OP, just wondering...what tire/rim/offset are you running that is requiring the fender cutting?
265/35/18 tire on an 18x9 +45mm wheel
Get a fender roller from eastwood. and not cut. but you need to heat it and go slow.
Too late, both fenders have now been cut. Read enough threads about paint cracking (both immediately and eventually) due to rolling with and without heat. Plus I have an angle grinder.
 

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265/35/18 tire on an 18x9 +45mm wheelToo late, both fenders have now been cut. Read enough threads about paint cracking (both immediately and eventually) due to rolling with and without heat. Plus I have an angle grinder.
Might want to investigate your cradle alignment. Those size tires and wheels shouldn't require fender work. How are your rear springs?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Both fenders were cut, I thenthey still rubbed. I had 4 people sit in my trunk so I could find the culprit area, looked to be right at the 2 o'clock positions. I cut again as far as I could go and tested, didn't seem to be any contact from a dead-stop, traction-controlled, hard launch. New rear springs will be next on my list just in case, and to stop some wheel hopping.

I primed, base coat, a clear coat the fender lips to seal the bare metal. Unless you are below eye level with my fender lips you can't tell any cutting or painting has been done.
 

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Can you post a pic of how close you went? I know every car will differ. I had rubbage more on passenger then trimmed now only on driver. Don’t think I’m at the pinch welds yet for 275/30’s/9.5” wheels on ET 45.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Can you post a pic of how close you went? I know every car will differ. I had rubbage more on passenger then trimmed now only on driver. Don’t think I’m at the pinch welds yet for 275/30’s/9.5” wheels on ET 45.
12 O'Clock is right where my finger is. About 0.5".
 
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