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Discussion Starter #1
Is there anyway to disable them?
 

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dryheat said:
Is there anyway to disable them?
I believe other owners have pulled the relay, which is located in the under hood fuse box. I think the light still shows on the dash and doesn't cause any faults in the computer.
 

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Knight Errant
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Dtr

dryheat said:
Is there anyway to disable them?
Rather than pull the relay, I just switch to parking lights and DTR shuts off.
 

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Old Goat said:
Rather than pull the relay, I just switch to parking lights and DTR shuts off.
In Washington it is illegal to drive with only parking lights on.
:drink: :drink:
 

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Yellow Goat
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I pulled the relay, no problems. I may eventually disable the light on the dash too.
 

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Knight Errant
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Shop Manual

Tails said:
In Washington it is illegal to drive with only parking lights on.
:drink: :drink:
I'll look through the shop manual, and see if I get any ideas. :sneaky:
 

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Knight Errant
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:sneaky: There is a switch under the parking brake assembly that is supposed to disable the DTR when the parking brake is applied. One might apply the brake handle 1 notch if it is loose enough (which I doubt), or add a switch (unsure yet whether NO or NC) and have on command DTR...
 

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Old Goat said:
I'll look through the shop manual, and see if I get any ideas. :sneaky:
Old Goat, where'd you get a shop manual? ..or do you work a dealership or someplace. I'm interested in getting one. any idea's where and how much?
 

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Gone but not forgotten
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yeah, ive done with my grand prix. you just pull and fuse and no more DTRs. i dont think i would recommend driving around with the E brake on, even at one click. pulling a fuse is much easier. and less risky
 

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Knight Errant
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Shop Manuals

mlc said:
Old Goat, where'd you get a shop manual? ..or do you work a dealership or someplace. I'm interested in getting one. any idea's where and how much?
Dealer's present to me. He ordered two sets from Helm's. They came in about the time of the first 500 mile oil change. They've been bedside reading and reference ever since. You can order from Helm's. The two platform manuals run $120.00 in paperback, LARGE phone book sized, they are a 1 of 2 and 2 of 2 set.

http://www.helminc.com/helm/Result....dule=&mscsid=2820W0HX856A8PJNW5PHD136HMD259M1

If DTR ever annoys me enough, I'll go under the console and add the switch, probably locating it under the 12v outlet in the console.
:thumbs:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks guys, good info. If anyone comes up with any other ideas, let me know.
 

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GTOholic
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gtodriver7 said:
i dont think i would recommend driving around with the E brake on, even at one click
A couple of times I have failed to fully release the E-Brake without realizing it. But the DIC "beeped" and "flashed" and "told" me the E-Brake was on. I wonder if you'd get these warnings at just one click?
 

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Knight Errant
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E-Brake warning

FLORIT said:
A couple of times I have failed to fully release the E-Brake without realizing it. But the DIC "beeped" and "flashed" and "told" me the E-Brake was on. I wonder if you'd get these warnings at just one click?
Hmmmm. mine didn't at one click, but the cable has loosened up a bit since I got it. I put it on hard each time I park, being an auto and not trusting the park pin. But, mine isn't everyone's and I didn't exactly zoom off down the street with it like that either. Hmmm..... I still think the permanent way to go is with a DTR kill switch at the parking brake sensor, and from the looks of Chapters 5 & 7, it's not what they say about DTR, it's what the books do not say. If the parking brake is on before ignition on, DTR will not illuminate. If ignition comes first, applying the parking brake after will not turn off DTR. There is a sensor under there I'll have to locate, and some wires to trace. It has to be done to trick DTR but not send a brake left on signal to the BCM. I hope this isn't going to become an internal BCM and light switch issue. Maybe the best way to do it without pulling fuses and/or relays is to reverse engineer a DTR failure from the troubleshooting section and locate a point to insert a synthesized failure. I have some bedside reading tonight, huh? I'll get back on a permanent bypass for those interested, and I'll try to figure the stick side too. One quick way is to blindfold the daylight sensor and not use the Auto position on the light switch....but will that cause the car to cry as well? Hmmmm. I hope to have an answer in a couple of days or so. The thing with pulling fuses and/or relays is you might not know what they 'share' with, if anything. Another project!... :sneaky:
 

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Like most I just pulled the relay and packed the plug with dielectric compound to keep moisture out.
 

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Knight Errant
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DTR Relay

Holeshot said:
Like most I just pulled the relay and packed the plug with dielectric compound to keep moisture out.
Number 7, left side, second one from the back, passenger side? That'll work.

Verified two ways (without having to loosen brake cables and lifting the parking brake handle a notch, or going far into the wiring harness).

A) Inserting a switch in parallel with the parking brake switch and keeping it closed. This makes it's own problem as said by Florit, a 'brake' dash light. Unless I miss my guess, that's an M6 Florit? Looked like a good idea, but not a good idea. The switch and leads are multi-purpose.

B) Like Holeshot says, pull the relay, and weather protect the socket. This looks really good (way to go Holeshot!) The relay is standalone according to the manuals, and tracing the circuit diagrams provided, I can't find any downside or other mutually disabled system. Relay #7, the DTR relay, is ID'ed as follows; standing in front of the car, open the underhood fuse box, all the way to your left in there, left row, second relay from the firewall. Should be marked out under the fusebox cover.

Blindfolding the Dash Sensor does NOT work on my Goat. The Manual says it does, but it doesn't. Which either means I have an issue there, or there is a built-in not mentioned in the books to keep you from driving without headlights. Oddly, the one click trick works on mine without a dash light. I get that at the second click, and my brakes start to drag at 2, and are not locked until I get to 8 or so. Might be a difference for A4's?

The Manuals are great for technique for disassembly and repair procedures, torque specs, wiring diagrams, color codes and the like, computer codes, tools, and other stuff. There are NO part numbers (d**n), and there is a lot they don't say. Interestingly, they seem to mention one or two things not in the car, and some of the illustrations seem to reflect a few things as being where they would be on a right hand drive. I HIGHLY recommend them, and a large bottle of aspirin... :D
 

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Knight Errant
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Dtr

kbaba said:
Why does it matter so much?
Personally, they don't bother me much, but they do some folks. Might be an aesthetic thing, or a courtesy thing. The concept was to make you more noticeable on the road. There are so many equipped with them now, the cars that don't have them seem to stand out better.
 

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Old Goat said:
There are so many equipped with them now, the cars that don't have them seem to stand out better.
Cars with DRLs are vastly easier to see, and more noticable in perephrial vision. Not to "stand out" so to speak.
 

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In australia the monaro doesn't come with daytime running lights, but Telstra ( numero uno telco) ordered all their cars with DRL. This was simply a module mounted inline with the headlight switch. Many purchasers of ex telstra vehicles simply removed this extra module......
 
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