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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, car is up on the jack stands and the install GenTT install is in progress.

The is my first time to really get under this car :drink:.

So looking at the oil pan, it looks like the entire front frame assembly has to come out to get at it. I heard some people mention cross member in the other threads, but I did not realize that it was such an extensive structure on this car.

So, how did you support the motor while pulling all this out? I have a few ideas, and I don't want to mess with removing the hood.

Curious to hear what you guys did. I'm almost considering trying to tap it on the car again.

I can see places to support while dropping it, but then I won't be able to get it out of the way, since the structure surrounds the entire motor and my supports will be in the way. .
 

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Can you say Grouper?
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lsXfanatic said:
Ok, car is up on the jack stands and the install GenTT install is in progress.

The is my first time to really get under this car :drink:.

So looking at the oil pan, it looks like the entire front frame assembly has to come out to get at it. I heard some people mention cross member in the other threads, but I did not realize that it was such an extensive structure on this car.

So, how did you support the motor while pulling all this out? I have a few ideas, and I don't want to mess with removing the hood.

Curious to hear what you guys did. I'm almost considering trying to tap it on the car again.

I can see places to support while dropping it, but then I won't be able to get it out of the way, since the structure surrounds the entire motor and my supports will be in the way. .
Its very simple man.

Go ahead and take out the oil pan bolts.

Get yourself two floor jacks. Put one floor jack at the bellhousing to support the engine/trans. Iused a block of wood there too.

Put your other floor jack on the K-Member. You can put it right there where it crosses over the oil pan.

Go ahead and remove your front tires too. This will give you a little more room.

Take out the four nuts holding the K in place. Disconnect the power steering lines. Two up front underneath the passenger side bumper. Then there are two by the pump, and two going into the rack. Take the two motor mount nuts off.

I can't remember if you need to drop the rack before doing this or not. I had already taken mine out when I got to this point.

Release the jack that is on the K-Member SLOWLY, and have a helper there to keep the K from flopping forward. Oil pan will drop down with the K.

There may be some other things to unbolt too, but that is all of the major ones I can remember right now.

Then just go backwards.
 

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Old Guys Rule
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I believe "Bone" did a thread on this, saw in one post where he deleted some of his threads. "Roy V" was also looking into this awhile ago. As I recall he did the oil pan swap in very short order.....

Tanglewoods approach is right on the money.....

definately do not drill that pan in place.....unless you want to second guess yourself everytime you start the car????
 

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Discussion Starter #4
tanglewood said:
Its very simple man.

Go ahead and take out the oil pan bolts.

Get yourself two floor jacks. Put one floor jack at the bellhousing to support the engine/trans. Iused a block of wood there too.

Release the jack that is on the K-Member SLOWLY, and have a helper there to keep the K from flopping forward. Oil pan will drop down with the K.
It just seems a little spooky having having the stress of such a fulcrum on the bellhousing.

I need to go take another look (I deceded to focus on other parts of the install for now).
 

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I did the same thing tanglewood mentioned, but I did not remove the lines from the rack. Looking back, I wish I did since I broke one :(. With air tools, I can have the pan off my car in less than 1/2 hour. The crossmember isn't too heavy, the first time I did it, I used a jack for it, the second and third (don't ask..), I just used my knees to hold it up while I loosened it. SAme thing putting it back. Quick note- for me, it is easier to drop the motor down a bit and get the motor mount bolts caught in the crossmember first, then jack the motor back up to get the crossmember up into place when reinstalling it. The one time I tried to bolt the crossmember up first, the motor mount bolts did not want to line up easily, so it is easier to do that first.
Joe
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Do you keep the control arms attached to the cross member and break the ball joint on the wheel side?
 

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I left them attached and didn't even do the ball joint, just dropped it and seperated the rack from the crossmember. I didn't even take the steering shaft off, just moved the rack out of the way by hand when dropping the pan. It would probably be easier to get the pan in and out with the steering shaft seperated though, it is a tight squeeze, but it worked for me.
Joe
 

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GTO...Austalian for Pontiac!
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We took the hood off, and put a motor support that fits on the edges of the quarters/fenderwalls; it bolts to the lovely engine "loops" that GM so conveniently puts on to allow pulling the motor. Unbolt the steering rack and front sway bar, then lower the crossmember and work the oilpan out. Really not too bad.

I had wondered about the jack under the bellhousing, but my mechanic buddy felt better about using the cradle support from above.

Pullling the hood takes just a minute or two. Honestly, if I'd had a cam and forged pistons sitting around at the time, we'd have simply pulled the engine out. OTOH, without drivetrain changes it would have been a mute point.

Also: the oil drain on the drivers side is too close to the steering rack as shown in the GenTT pics. Mine will be okay with the original routing of the downpipe. If I were going to swing the downpipe behind the manifold, I'd really think about the drain location. I believe that was also done by Synergy.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Also: the oil drain on the drivers side is too close to the steering rack as shown in the GenTT pics. Mine will be okay with the original routing of the downpipe. If I were going to swing the downpipe behind the manifold, I'd really think about the drain location. I believe that was also done by Synergy.
Thanks for pointing that out.

I was planning on (re-thinking/verifying) the drain locations, but it almost slipped my mind in the furry of banged knuckes and grime. I knew it was time to walk away from it yesterday.
 
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