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Discussion Starter #1
Does anyone have a pair of whiteline eccentric crush tubes laying around that they aren’t using? I’m trying to modify my Front control arm bushings to accept one so I can adjust how the arm mounts to the subframe.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Trying to add a bit more room for camber and slightly improve roll center since my car sits pretty low.
 

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I was thinking the same thing about improving roll center but would it really work with eccentric bushings? After thinking it through, it appears to me that only way to do this is to move control arm mounting point up. It is mounting point that makes difference regardless of how much offset there is in the bushings.
 

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Interesting. If you change the position of the cr won't you have to move other pieces? If the car is lowered or you want it to be it takes a dropped spindel to correct the geomertry. Could be wrong but I don't think eccentrics will work as the cr swings in an arc, seems like that would bind the bushings?
 

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Interesting. If you change the position of the cr won't you have to move other pieces? If the car is lowered or you want it to be it takes a dropped spindel to correct the geomertry. Could be wrong but I don't think eccentrics will work as the cr swings in an arc, seems like that would bind the bushings?
Yes, steering tie rods would have to be adjusted as well for bump steer correction. Position of steering tie rods is directly related to control arm position. But it is easily done with adjustable tie rod adapter.
Harrop makes spindles that have 20mm lowered cr and tie rod connection points. That is as far as it can go before interfering with brake rotors. So if you are lowered more than 20mm, it can be done by also moving cr connection point up on inner bushing side.
Eccentric bushing doesn’t move connection point up, I think the load point would still be at the same place where bolt goes through the sub frame. The bolt hole has to be drilled up higher.
Now, even if the car was not lowered, I think it would still be beneficial to do this. It moves roll center higher which in return lowers the rate of body roll in turns. I don’t think one could go to far given this cars suspension geometry and physical limitations of moving cr mounting points. That is, without major modifications to complete front end suspension and sub frame.
Another benefit would be addition of dynamic camber.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I think you guys are right. I kind of came to the same conclusion and just pressed in my regular whiteline jacketed bushings but one mushroomed a little bit on the way in and is too short so I’m going to have to shim it to control front to back motion.

I am quite low as a product of KW V3 max height adjustment (that they cover) and my offset strut mounts which I believe are a bit shorter than the stock style mounts, hence searching to improve roll center. Not sure how much more money I want to dump into it though. Those harrop spindles sound fantastic but they are pricey. This thing eats consumables so eventually I’m probably going to switch to my e46 for long term track duty.
 

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-3.5 degrees front camber
-2 degrees rear camber
zero toe front and back
42 psi hot on front
29 psi hot on rears

This setup wears tires so even, you will not believe it. I have about 20 autox races between me and my kid on re71r tires, plus about 1.5k street miles and tires are still good with even wear. I do rotate after every race front to back and once in the middle of the season side to side.
My brakes are never the issue. Stock brakes and pads. I just don’t brake that much when autox. Little trail braking, that’s it. Road racing would be different but it is momentum driving that is the key, I think.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I do open track events and I separated my stock front calipers early on. I have a Stoptech BBK with 14” rotors up front, r12 pads (though switching to r16 due to 100tw tires) and I use those brakes to their full extent. I use momentum but all else equal staying on the power a little longer is faster. I DO however need to add more negative camber up front. Only 2.5 currently because I drive it on the street but I’m thinking I need to crank it up another degree based on tire wear in the front.
 

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Yes, you probably should. -3.5 front camber works perfect for me. It required filing clevis bolts oval holes by about 1.5mm, raising spring perches up 1/2" by using 6" 9kg springs and k-mac strut mounts. This is on Pedders Supercars.
I'd love to upgrade my brakes just for looks if nothing else. Harrop Ultimate kit looks amazing but it is so big, it doesn't save any weight. My understanding is that Stoptech brakes shave good amount of weight, or do they?
 

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I think you guys are right. I kind of came to the same conclusion and just pressed in my regular whiteline jacketed bushings but one mushroomed a little bit on the way in and is too short so I’m going to have to shim it to control front to back motion.

I am quite low as a product of KW V3 max height adjustment (that they cover) and my offset strut mounts which I believe are a bit shorter than the stock style mounts, hence searching to improve roll center. Not sure how much more money I want to dump into it though. Those harrop spindles sound fantastic but they are pricey. This thing eats consumables so eventually I’m probably going to switch to my e46 for long term track duty.
Are you on factory height struts/shocks? I was when I dropped mine, rode like a buck board. Finally ran down a set of short body Pedders, hard to find and a bit pricey but worth every cent. The ride is better and I'm not a half mile down the road before they react to a speed bump. I believe Monroe is making short bodies now. as well
 
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