Ok, so I gained 31 RWHP, not too shabby considering I'm still going through Flowmasters. From the questions that I've seen, most people wanna know the fit and finish. *EDIT* As I was talking to a friend, I told him even if I make 5-7 less RWHP then the other long tubes isnt it worth it? I can save myself the $600 and put it towards a FAST, or Pulley ETC.
I give this an 8 of 10, as there are a few hoops to jump through. This is my first set of long tubes, I normally go mids, or shorties, but I've always wanted to see what all the talk about longtubes was. The fit and finish of the PaceSetters get a 9 of 10. The headers are fine, but the connection pipes needed a little grinding for the headers to fit in, not hard at all just time consuming. With mass production of these, I guess I should expect that, but once again, only 9 of 10. This is probably common with most long tubes, I have heard horror storys from the other long tube installs. So maybe this should get a 10 of 10, I can only say its not perfect.
Gaskets were top notch, copper, and if you dont know much PS started with a white paper gasket, and they leaked like all hell, trust me. Much Much Better gasket now. Bolts are the standard size of all the kits from them. The connection to the cat back pipes use the paper gaskets, but since there is no real pressure, they should hold up, I'll find out soon enough.
GO COATED! Pay the extra $100 or however much it is to get these things coated. I needed them fast to test, and get some results, dyno and pictures here. They dont look remotely close to that nice black finish thats on them in the pictures, all of that has burnt off. Not pretty to look at but they perform. I will be ordering a set of coated soon, and sell these non coated ones.
DIRECTIONS: Great directions, pretty straight forward, FOLLOW THEM, dont skip steps because in the long run you'll have to go back and do them. If you wanna use the O2 extensions make sure to cut/splice wire them up BEFORE you put them back on the long tube. Reason being: the O2's tend to rust up, I only had 9K miles on my car, so the O2's werent too tough, but the driver side was a pain in the ass, lots of WD40 on it to pull it off. Once installed on the header, I had to just wire them on the ground.
Install notes: You will need to pull the steering knuckle, and drop the rack and pinion. You will also need to grind the mid pipes, they are not finished as good as the headers. Make sure you have power steering fluid handy! You have to pull the two lines coming into the rack and pinion. Putting these back in after the header install is a pain, you will need to line it up with your hands from the top of the car, as you can see right into the rack. Once lined up get under the car and work your hand in there. Shorty wrenchs will be handy, but not needed. Take your time, and unless you work out at the gym alot you may need a few rests after making 1/8 turns to tighten. *EDIT* Some people say you do not need to remove these lines, and I have taken off the front motor mount, and jacked up the motor and was able to leave them on.
CUTING OR BENDING! There are two bolts on each side of the car that hold a bracket on. *EDIT* THEY ARE THE BOTTOM ONES! If you look in the pictures you will see them almost right next to the header. These will hit your header possibly bending, or puncturing them. Since you know about it now, when you pull the stock manifolds you should cut them off with a die grinder, sawzall, or whatever you can. Once you put the headers back on, it makes for a Pain in the ass to bed or cut. If you dont do this, you will regret it.
SOUND: They are loud, I have flowmaster super 40's and I cant drive now. I have to granny shift at 2300 RPM or the headers over power EVERYTHING. I have scared the crap out of people flying by them, or sitting at the light and punching it. Being that there are no cats, you might wanna add a bullet muffler, or Magnaflow glass pack to quiet it down. For those of you with no smog laws, or noise pollution states, THESE ARE GONNA BE A BLAST!
Install Time: 4hrs 15 minutes on the floor with Jack stands.
On a lift I dont imagine it would take you more then 2 hours 30 mins. Probably less.
Bottom Line:
Kooks and Stainless Works Watch out, these are gonna hurt your sales.
PRICE: $349.99 + Connection Pipes + Shipping. (Honestly how could you go wrong?)
*EDIT* Saw a sponsor selling them for $299, GTFO here! So cheap...
Contact Chad @ Gravanatuning.com
Flash99
I give this an 8 of 10, as there are a few hoops to jump through. This is my first set of long tubes, I normally go mids, or shorties, but I've always wanted to see what all the talk about longtubes was. The fit and finish of the PaceSetters get a 9 of 10. The headers are fine, but the connection pipes needed a little grinding for the headers to fit in, not hard at all just time consuming. With mass production of these, I guess I should expect that, but once again, only 9 of 10. This is probably common with most long tubes, I have heard horror storys from the other long tube installs. So maybe this should get a 10 of 10, I can only say its not perfect.
Gaskets were top notch, copper, and if you dont know much PS started with a white paper gasket, and they leaked like all hell, trust me. Much Much Better gasket now. Bolts are the standard size of all the kits from them. The connection to the cat back pipes use the paper gaskets, but since there is no real pressure, they should hold up, I'll find out soon enough.
GO COATED! Pay the extra $100 or however much it is to get these things coated. I needed them fast to test, and get some results, dyno and pictures here. They dont look remotely close to that nice black finish thats on them in the pictures, all of that has burnt off. Not pretty to look at but they perform. I will be ordering a set of coated soon, and sell these non coated ones.
DIRECTIONS: Great directions, pretty straight forward, FOLLOW THEM, dont skip steps because in the long run you'll have to go back and do them. If you wanna use the O2 extensions make sure to cut/splice wire them up BEFORE you put them back on the long tube. Reason being: the O2's tend to rust up, I only had 9K miles on my car, so the O2's werent too tough, but the driver side was a pain in the ass, lots of WD40 on it to pull it off. Once installed on the header, I had to just wire them on the ground.
Install notes: You will need to pull the steering knuckle, and drop the rack and pinion. You will also need to grind the mid pipes, they are not finished as good as the headers. Make sure you have power steering fluid handy! You have to pull the two lines coming into the rack and pinion. Putting these back in after the header install is a pain, you will need to line it up with your hands from the top of the car, as you can see right into the rack. Once lined up get under the car and work your hand in there. Shorty wrenchs will be handy, but not needed. Take your time, and unless you work out at the gym alot you may need a few rests after making 1/8 turns to tighten. *EDIT* Some people say you do not need to remove these lines, and I have taken off the front motor mount, and jacked up the motor and was able to leave them on.
CUTING OR BENDING! There are two bolts on each side of the car that hold a bracket on. *EDIT* THEY ARE THE BOTTOM ONES! If you look in the pictures you will see them almost right next to the header. These will hit your header possibly bending, or puncturing them. Since you know about it now, when you pull the stock manifolds you should cut them off with a die grinder, sawzall, or whatever you can. Once you put the headers back on, it makes for a Pain in the ass to bed or cut. If you dont do this, you will regret it.
SOUND: They are loud, I have flowmaster super 40's and I cant drive now. I have to granny shift at 2300 RPM or the headers over power EVERYTHING. I have scared the crap out of people flying by them, or sitting at the light and punching it. Being that there are no cats, you might wanna add a bullet muffler, or Magnaflow glass pack to quiet it down. For those of you with no smog laws, or noise pollution states, THESE ARE GONNA BE A BLAST!
Install Time: 4hrs 15 minutes on the floor with Jack stands.
On a lift I dont imagine it would take you more then 2 hours 30 mins. Probably less.
Bottom Line:
Kooks and Stainless Works Watch out, these are gonna hurt your sales.
PRICE: $349.99 + Connection Pipes + Shipping. (Honestly how could you go wrong?)
*EDIT* Saw a sponsor selling them for $299, GTFO here! So cheap...
Contact Chad @ Gravanatuning.com
Flash99
