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Had my 04 stored for a year. Hooked a hot battery up and main odometer LCD so faded can barely read it-search here says new cluster or repair all threads are old-are they even available sure not from GM this old a vehicle or a repair service anyone has used? Weird deal factory radio also did the CD error(had swapped out the origination 10 years ago when it did that) and one of my Aeroforce guages has a blank screen also.
 

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Had my 04 stored for a year. Hooked a hot battery up and main odometer LCD so faded can barely read it-search here says new cluster or repair all threads are old-are they even available sure not from GM this old a vehicle or a repair service anyone has used? Weird deal factory radio also did the CD error(had swapped out the origination 10 years ago when it did that) and one of my Aeroforce guages has a blank screen also.
Hawks motor sports sells new clusters and I think they’re the only ones that do.
 

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GTOG8TA has NOS binnacles, er, clusters
 

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Before taking any money spending actions, pull the cluster and disassemble the plastic housing so you can see the circuit board itself. Examine the connections where the LCD panel is soldered to the circuit board. If there is any crusty white residue around these connections VERY GENTLY clean this crud off with a VERY soft brush and some electronics cleaner. Let it dry entirely and plug it back in. This could very well restore the contrast to your LCD panel.

Also, swapping in a new or good used cluster will also show the incorrect odometer mileage AND it will set a red flag in the BCM stating that there is a disconnect between the miles stored on the BCM and miles on the cluster. If this car is ever scanned with a Tech II or similar tool in the future it will be flagged as having had the odometer tampered with which can cause a lot of trouble. I believe a Tech II can be used to set a new cluster with the actual mileage as stored in the BCM.
 

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Any GM dealer can set the correct mileage to a brand new cluster.

That said, follow Rich’s recommendation first, then give Bohnman a holler if that doesn’t work. He can replace the bad screen with a known good one.
 

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Before taking any money spending actions, pull the cluster and disassemble the plastic housing so you can see the circuit board itself. Examine the connections where the LCD panel is soldered to the circuit board. If there is any crusty white residue around these connections VERY GENTLY clean this crud off with a VERY soft brush and some electronics cleaner. Let it dry entirely and plug it back in. This could very well restore the contrast to your LCD panel.

Also, swapping in a new or good used cluster will also show the incorrect odometer mileage AND it will set a red flag in the BCM stating that there is a disconnect between the miles stored on the BCM and miles on the cluster. If this car is ever scanned with a Tech II or similar tool in the future it will be flagged as having had the odometer tampered with which can cause a lot of trouble. I believe a Tech II can be used to set a new cluster with the actual mileage as stored in the BCM.
I like this stuff. https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-D5S-6-DeoxIT-Contact-Cleaner/dp/B00006LVEU

I'm pretty sure I paid $20 for the small spray can when Radio Shack was still around - that should tell you how long it lasts. I've fixed multiple things with it, including a computer mouse yesterday.
 

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I wonder if we are going to start having to use the "oven" trick like a lot of 90's import electronics.

I remember the "master relay" on my 1991 accord. Gah, that car was junk. I don't understand how people worship imported cars from that era for their reliability.
 

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I like this stuff. Amazon.com: DeoxIT 5% Spray Contact Cleaner, 5 oz.: Musical Instruments

I'm pretty sure I paid $20 for the small spray can when Radio Shack was still around - that should tell you how long it lasts. I've fixed multiple things with it, including a computer mouse yesterday.
I like this stuff for circuit boards. You can get it at most decent car parts stores.


The stuff Logan shared says it is a contact cleaner and I'm not sure that would be helpful as you don't want to improve connectivity BETWEEN circuits on the circuit board. The problem of blank or fading LCD panels is sometimes caused by the white residue I mentioned that slightly makes a electrical connections across circuits that SHOULDN'T be having a connection. By cleaning off the white crusty crud, the circuit integrity is restored. The spray cleaner I linked above helps dissolve the crud (and other contaminates) and completely and totally evaporates quickly leaving no conductive residue, which is what you want. You just need to make darn sure it has completely evaporated before powering up again. If it gets under an LCD panel or a component of some sort, it could take a while to evaporate out from under. It helps to hit the sprayed areas with some canned air and then let it sit for 30 minutes or more before powering up.
 

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I acquired an 04 cluster yesterday i do not need, i only needed the lens. i stole the lens off of it and put my lightly scratched on it. $40 if you want it. Mileage unknown grey face gauges.
 

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I wonder if we are going to start having to use the "oven" trick like a lot of 90's import electronics.

I remember the "master relay" on my 1991 accord. Gah, that car was junk. I don't understand how people worship imported cars from that era for their reliability.
What was the oven trick? Was that to reflow the solder joints? I had a '93 Prelude Si that had cracked solder joints on the HVAC control panel that had to be touched up to get the AC working again (I used a soldering iron).

Anyway, I'm not sure you'd want to put the GTO gauge panel in an oven because of the LCD panels, I'm not sure they'd like that much heat. That said, if you have the gauge panel out it sure doesn't hurt to inspect the solder joints looking for any that are cracked and touch them up with a very fine soldering iron. And you certainly wouldn't want to put it in the oven with the gauge face as it is just a sheet of plastic and would melt or burn or at least warp.
 

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What was the oven trick? Was that to reflow the solder joints? I had a '93 Prelude Si that had cracked solder joints on the HVAC control panel that had to be touched up to get the AC working again (I used a soldering iron).

Anyway, I'm not sure you'd want to put the GTO gauge panel in an oven because of the LCD panels, I'm not sure they'd like that much heat. That said, if you have the gauge panel out it sure doesn't hurt to inspect the solder joints looking for any that are cracked and touch them up with a very fine soldering iron. And you certainly wouldn't want to put it in the oven with the gauge face as it is just a sheet of plastic and would melt or burn or at least warp.
yep, that was it.

i'm sure you could disassemble it as much as you could, but i don't know if the LCD's are soldered directly to the board or have a flat data cable.

i wonder how a heat gun would fare on it instead.
 

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yep, that was it.

i'm sure you could disassemble it as much as you could, but i don't know if the LCD's are soldered directly to the board or have a flat data cable.

i wonder how a heat gun would fare on it instead.
The LCD panels are soldered right to the board. Some of the solder joints are VERY tiny and tightly packed, you'd have to have a very fine tipped soldering iron and a steady hand on the solder joints on the LCD panels.
 

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i guess the 90s clunkiness made things easier to DIY repair back in the day.
My 93 Prelude was a very fun and dependable car. The wife and I logged about 160,000 miles on it and it came to us with 100k on it! Was still on the original clutch when I sold it with 260k+ miles on it. Was starting to rust a bit by then, but was still very solid overall. Geez, I thought so many times what a blast that car would have been with Honda's superb V6.
 

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My 93 Prelude was a very fun and dependable car. The wife and I logged about 160,000 miles on it and it came to us with 100k on it! Was still on the original clutch when I sold it with 260k+ miles on it. Was starting to rust a bit by then, but was still very solid overall. Geez, I thought so many times what a blast that car would have been with Honda's superb V6.
their v6 is meh. i was unimpressed when it when we owned our accord.

i'd rather have the K20C that's in the new one. Might fit better, as well.
 

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Not sure when you have a Honda V6, but the latest, the J-series, is impressive in my book. Pushes my Accord Coupe to 13.9s pretty much stock. The HFP suspension, a good larger rear sway bar and good Summer only tires and it pulls 1g in both directions. Like the GTO it is traction limited, could do better if it could cleanly get the power to the ground.
 

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Yeah, ours was a J series. Like i said, i wasn't too impressed.
I'm assuming yours had an automatic transmission. Until their recent 10-speed auto Honda's automatics have always been underwhelming. Also, the J-series V6 begs for and shines with a manual. When I was looking to buy, I drove two identical cars other than one being an automatic and one being a manual. Pretty much a night and day difference. If automatics had been the only choice I would have shopped elsewhere, the manual sealed the deal though and really lets the V6 show off its capabilities.
 
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