LS1GTO Forums banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
13 year owner
Joined
·
16,379 Posts
I didn't mess with mine.

But then I put the stock T-Stat back in also. NO need for it with a stock/bolt-on motor.
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
2,432 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
CMNTMXR57 said:
I didn't mess with mine.

But then I put the stock T-Stat back in also. NO need for it with a stock/bolt-on motor.
Interesting. So running a colder tstat and dropping the fan temps won't get it running much cooler or what?

I've had one sitting in a box for a couple of months now and had thought about putting it on, but I guess I'll leave it in the box and wait until I decide on what mods I want to do next.

What is the factory tstat temp?
 

·
13 year owner
Joined
·
16,379 Posts
It got it running cool as long as the car was kept moving. If I had changed the fans "temp on" settings, sitting for extended periods of time wouldn't have been an issue and maintained the coolness I achieved while driving.

Problem is, driving along in closed loop at full operating temp, the coolant would settle down at about 173*. This is getting too cool and I feared that the PCm would be triggered into reduced power mode because of it thinking that the engine hadn't reached full operating temp.
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
2,432 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
CMNTMXR57 said:
Problem is, driving along in closed loop at full operating temp, the coolant would settle down at about 173*. This is getting too cool and I feared that the PCm would be triggered into reduced power mode because of it thinking that the engine hadn't reached full operating temp.

Couldn't that be programmed out of it, or has no one figured out where that's set at?

I know from older posts a lot more people than just CMNTMXR put in a 160 tstat. Did no one leave it in?
 

·
13 year owner
Joined
·
16,379 Posts
I don't know if that's a "programmable" feature of the PCM though. That's one of it's fail safe modes, similar to that of "limp home" mode.
 

·
Admin
Joined
·
9,705 Posts
I would want 180-185 to be optimal personally.

The stock file has the following:

As far as timing goes 122* to 203* WOT does not cut timing. Low throttle it cuts timing from 122* to 176*

The fueling is 1 to 1 (not running richer) at 176* from 158* to 175* its 2% richer

On another personal note, I hate cars that run hot. I'm glad we dont have have to go to an electical waterpump just to keep the car cool.
 

·
Gone but not forgotten
Joined
·
4,672 Posts
DevilYellow said:
On another personal note, I hate cars that run hot. I'm glad we dont have have to go to an electical waterpump just to keep the car cool.
are electrical pumps more effective at cooling than a belt drive?
 

·
Admin
Joined
·
9,705 Posts
Oh yea :) Plus you can have it cool down the car without the motor running if you wire up like that. Just nerdy things, but then there if there is a problem with the wiring or something happens, there is a big problem with the cooling system.
 

·
13 year owner
Joined
·
16,379 Posts
Yes and no. For pure performance, yes, they're better because it's one less drag on the motor (turning it). It has the ability to be run without the engine running like Jon says, however, if you're running it hard and you don't have an override switch on it, it may not come on until too late.

this is why the trucks still are belt/crank driven. In HD situations, they feel safer with it turning all the time instead of being thermostaticly controled and cycled on/off.

There are plusses and minusses to each. If you get the override switches like SLP has for the F-Body's you pretty much have all bases covered. Of course you could also have someone with LS1Edit set the "on" speeds for both fans extremely low so that they're on all the time too.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top