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GTO junkie
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1,043 Posts
I have a vig 3200 and would recommend it or a yank

Fuddle verter might be good but how long have they been around? Vig and yank are both very secure choices and if this is a dd I wouldn't want to risk drivability.
 

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Ho's b4 Bro's
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2,148 Posts
I've always had manual trannys in all my performance cars (ZR1, multiple vettes, 300ZX TT's, T/A, etc), but just the little research I've done on TC's has been eye opening. I had no idea I knew so little about them.
 

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I...I...I got Nothin
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961 Posts
I can give my experience with a stall in my '99 Trans Am. It was a Yank SY3500 - 1.67 STR I preferred the lower than stock STR because I could launch abit harder on the street. My 60' went from a 2.3 (Street Tires) to a 1.89 (Street Tires)

The 3500 stall was great, it actually reminds me alot of the six speed I have in the Goat from slipping the clutch to get moving. Your rpms will be higher on average when your in traffic going up a hill. but once the converter locks, it's all good.

No difference on the highway as far as gas mileage goes. If you get into a race, tap the brake to unlock the converter and floor it. It really takes off.

One of my main concerns was driving the converter on back, twisty roads. I was worried that the downshift would unbalance the car. It wont do that. I was running with Corvettes and Porsches on the back roads around here with no trouble.

I raced an M3 the highway once, He had some work done to the car so it was a good race. We went from just under 70 (I was able to slow him down to that speed before we went) So I dropped to 2nd. I immediately jumped about three cars ahead and we stayed that to 130.

Then a set of planetaries blew and took out the whole tranny. That was expensive.

I would recommend a converter first. At least a 2800 stal with a high STR, or 32 - 3600 stall with maybe a 1,8 to 2,2 STR. I know some guys that are running 4000 stall converters in a daily driver.

The converter will put more stress on your tranny, so a shift kit and a tranny cooler is a must. Then start putting aside money for a rebuilt tranny down the road. My tranny lasted for 55K miles before it went, and I was racing almost every weekend. Oh yeah, as far as internals go. Don't fix it if it isn't broken. You will save a bit more money down the road if you save up for the whole tranny, instead of sticking clutch bands in here and there, etc.

Ther are some real good tranny builders out there whose 4L60e's are running in the tens, so be sure to look around.

As far as the brand of converter goes. ATI out of Baltimore is good. Hughes Performance has a stellar rep and they build up trannies, Yank and Precision Industries are both excellent with the Vigilantes getting better ET's and the Yanks seeming to trap higher.

That's about all I know.
 

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Ho's b4 Bro's
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2,148 Posts
The STR is what has me confused. On one had the info indicates that a high STR is more like stock, but yet it multiplies the torque by more, so it launches harder or more violent, I guess. The low STR's slip more? And are easier on the launches?

I'm confused.
 

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I...I...I got Nothin
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961 Posts
STR is torque multiplier at (trying to remember) the stall rating (I think) Basically it the amount of torque going to the wheels when you mash the throttle. A high rating like 3.0 will put a shitload of torque to the wheels when you floor, but it quickly drops away as the rpms build.

Now you have to think about the shift extension of the converter which I know nothing about.

Do a search on LS1Tech, converter selection is a very hot topic over there. Also the Yank website has a chart that will help you match a converter to what you want to do. A lot of stock set-up guys are going with the SS3600 or SS4000 They don't make the SY3500 any more, I think.

With the GTO, I don't know. The Trans Am I considered to be drag racer that could be made to handle very well while losing it's daily driver manners. So a higher stall was what I went for.

The GTO, I consider to be a road course car that can be made to drag race very well. If I went by that philosophy I would get a lower stall converter (2800) with a 2.2 - 2.5 STR and then try to decide about shift entensions. I would not stiffen the springs at all but I would get shocks and a swaybar to let the squat and dig in on turns. I don't know if you've seen pictures of cars in the middle of turns at high speed with softer springs but heavy duty sways. The rear is squatting very much, but it is very level while doing it.

Anyway, that's just my personal opinion. Do you want a drag racer, or do you want to eventually set it up handle mountain roads? you will also wnat to decide how to reprogram your tranny, Quicker downshifts, harsher upshifts, increased rpms for upshifts,etc.
 

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1 Posts
Can anyone advise the difference in shift extension with a low STR converter VS. a high STR Converter? There was mention above regarding the old discontinued SY3500. I recently had a custom GM 9.5 converter with a 0 impeller and 086 stater made for a low 1.63 STR. No lock up and no overdrive. TH400. I have not installed it yet. 3.73 gears. Just worried my shift extension will suck. Im used to you typical high STR converters tha

This old thread peeked my interest because of the post regarding a LOW STR being an all around better converter. I happen to agree in theory and based on my research. However, not by experience. Im just looking for anyones experience here.

Thanks.
 
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