Anyone have any documentation on how to remove the stock front swaybar and install a hotchkis one, after searching I only found mention of the cradle being a problem, but other than that I don't see anything.
The HKS bar set comes with directions. You are supposed to unbolt the 'cradle frame' andlower the front fo it 3-4 inches. Looks like an engine cradle to me in the pics. Pretty sure those are TTY bolts.
It has been posted here before by folks who do this stuff (instead of just reading about it like I do) that if your alignemnt is good to start you can probably put your cradles back where you found them (with the clever use of ledger marks) and not lose anything.
DO NOT, I REPEAT DO NOT REUSE CRADDLE BOLTS! they are all TTY and every time you reuse them, you LOSE 20% of their strength..... so if you're gonna play with the craddle, just pay for the new bolts and if at all possible, have the front craddle aligned.
I used marks around the ends of the cradle to help re-align it. I had no problems.
Again do not re-use those 4 bolts. Also if you do stuff like this, get a torque wrench if you don't have one. I recomend getting a 3/8 drive version with inch-pounds, and a 1/2 inch version for ft-lbs.
POOP, I was hoping to avoid that step especially since its not mentioned in the Hotchkis .pdf. My local dealer is GTO ignorant and my manual wont be here for a week or so(ordered yesterday from Fred Beans) could you hook me up with the part #s and an estimate of price please?
Any chance the bolts can be replaced with non TTY ones from mcmaster or even local hardware?
Since your sig says you have a 2005, you can ignore all that stuff in the instructions about the coolant pipes that cross over the front cradle. They are not there on a 2005, so the power steering line is really all you have to deal with.
Mine would have been a very easy install, if only that bolt I plugged the rubber power steering hose with had stayed in. What a mess!!!!
Yeah the power steering thing can be messy, I used a clamp on the bolt.
ALso the bolts are not that special, however they are metric grade 10 hardware.
The hotchkis directions do say that you will have to lower the cradle to remove the old bar and install the new one.
Estimate on cost: (Shop rate per hour) x 3 hours. Assuming they have no parts issues and the guy is somewhat competent. Know the GTO is not necessary as its just basic mechanic work. You might try having it done at suspension/tire shop that you trust. Or a body shop.
Bah!, I do my own stunts. I was more concerned with GM's overpriced parts and the dealer knowing I did this. If I had the part #s I could go to the chevy dealership, if I had the measurments I could order or find them locally.