the shims on GTO go between the rear pinion race and housing
this is the solid spacer kit sold by Gforce, there are shims there under the spacer to set bearing preload. Someone obviously was in there and built this...stock they come with a crush sleeve
so i would have to press the race out to reshim?the shims on GTO go between the rear pinion race and housing
this is not what was told to me in an email.FPARTS is a junkyard, out here in Bristol PA. They simply remove stuff from wrecked cars and resell. So what came out of that car is what you likely got. I Don't think they have anyone in house than can R&R a diff.
I've bought many cores from them...I go and pick thru them to make sure they turn free etc.
thanks for the info.For the rear race, you can knock it out with a punch from the front. There are 2 notches in the housing for this purpose. It is in there tight...if you have a press you can rig something up there too...but I normally just use a long brass punch and drive them out alternating between the 2 notches on each side.
If you put the shims under the pinion bearing on the gear, there is no way to re-shim easily as you can't get the bearing cone off without damaging it or destroying it. You can shim it there if you want though, same end result. I'd suggest buying 2 pinion bearing cones and making one a 'mock up' by opening up the ID so it is slip fit on your gear. Then you can shim by trial and error till you get it right and then press on your other new bearing cone. Same thing can be done with the rear race...the race is about a 1/3 the price of the cone FYI
this is not what was told to me in an email.
they said the original case was cracked, so they installed the gears in a new one.
i asked them what specific work was done, and they reassured me how they have mechanics and machinists on site and that it was set up properly, yadda yadda.
thanks for the info.
that's the caveat for buying used parts on the internet, i suppose--you never really know what you're getting until you get it. it's not like you can physically check beforehand before purchasing something. at the very least this thing is almost worth in parts what i paid for it, more or less.well they likely did swap the gears over...but I wouldn't expect it was done right. Only machinists I've seen there use sawzalls LOL.
diff #1 replaced the differential that was in my red car, since it was the best candidate for not sucking.ok, diff #1. Stock diff.
i haven't messed with this one again. i got it as close as i could to a good pattern and set the side adjuster torque to about 25-30 ft lbs on each side. it may be too much as the carrier bearings are used (though they are in great looking condition). sealed it back up and stuck a pair of good stubs in it.diff #2, another stock diff.
this one, the cursed paperweight i bought from ebay, i ended up yanking apart. as mentioned in previous parts, the pinion depth is way, way off, so much that the teeth were only making contact on the very edge and there was no discernible pattern. now, upon close inspection, i can not only see the original wear pattern etched in the gears (which confirms my suspicions that they were indeed improperly set up by Contemporary Corvette, and were not ran with the horribly out-of-wack setup i bought them in), but the gears do look very beat on. The gear teeth are very shiny and smooth, the edges of the teeth somewhat sharp on the pinion gear. There are no machining striations evident at all. It doesn't look like much material has been removed, fortunately, so i'm not sure how bad off this gearset really is.IMG]http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=361970&stc=1&d=1433653945[/IMG]
just an update. don't have pics yet, but maybe when i have some time.both the pinion depth and backlash are significantly off, as evident by the triangular pattern on the coast side and the pattern on the drive side being almost at the toe of the gear tooth.
backlash measured between .005"-.006"
i tried to remove the side adjusters, which so far has met with disaster. an entire can of PB blaster, heat applied to the case immediately around the adjuster, and beating on it with a 3/4 drive impact did nothing. it eventually broke all but one of the teeth on the tool i had made with a friend of mine to use on the side adjusters. (and no, it wasn't a flimsy oil filter wrench thing. it was quite a bit more stout than that). Enough torque to bend up the adjuster and break my tool, not enough to budge anything.
i never had this issue with any of the other diffs i've worked on so far. i don't drive red in the snow or rain and it doesn't sit outside, so not sure how this got so corroded that it is almost impossible to break loose.