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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok, I finally have some free time and plan to install the GenTT kit starting this weekend. I promised a long time ago that I would document the entire process, so here goes the very first installment.

I contemplated this battery location for quite some time and I decided to spend the money and go with an optima battery ($135 at Costco). The reason being is that the optima battery is completely sealed and requires no ventilation. This also means it can be mounted in any position (sideways…) It is a bit expensive, but you end up with a better battery and don’t have to spend the money on a battery box.

My initial plan was to build an aluminum bracket and mount it under the trunk (there is room), but I started looking at the spare tire well and resized it was already a great location (less dirt and grime…). I have not carried a spare in the car since day 1, so it was no sacrifice at all to use that space. The tracks I go to (which is not very often in the first place) don’t ever inspect under the hood, so there is absolutely no need for me to have an external kill switch.

The nice thing about spare area is that there is already two pieces of metal pretty much the perfect distance apart to keep the battery from sliding forward and backwards (when laying down). All that needs to be fabricated is a strap to keep it from coming off the floor or moving side to side.

A picture is worth a thousand words so here you go. (click on the thumbnail to make it large)


You can clearly see the big spare mounting bracket that keeps it from sliding towards the back of the car, but not pictured is the raised boss that keeps it from sliding towards the front of the car. The strap I fabricated is made of steel (and the material can be found at any home improvement store for about $5).

Fabricating the strap is super easy. Just bend it over the battery to shape it and then cut to size. I used a vice as a break to help shape the feet.

The mounting of the strap cannot be done with nuts and bolts (because there is a support structure in the way on one side and you could not hold the nut to tighten things down (based on the position that I choose). Because of this, I decided to use nut-certs/ threaded rivets. They provide for a very OEM look and don’t require access to the back side during install.. They look like this when installed. (you could also just position the batt to the drivers side a few inches or run a tap on the passenger side if you did not want to mess with the nut-certs)
You can order little kits to install these from several places. Just do a search on google. I’ve found a million uses for them in the past.


I also went ahead and mounted a 200amp breaker on the spare hold down mount (think I paid $15 or so for it on ebay). Still not sure how well it will work, but I’m going to give it a try.



And the finished product obviously looks 100% OEM with the carpet in place, you won’t be able to see any wires.. when all is said and done.


This only took an hour and a half to install (including the strap fabrication). There is obviously more stuff to do for the battery relocation, but I want to get the turbos mounted first so I can choose the best location for the distribution block….

I plan to get the Freon recovered out the AC on my way home from work tomorrow and then get down to some more serious business over the weekend. First on the list will be mocking up the turbos and tweaking the drivers’ side down pipe to follow the path that [email protected] took (behind the manifold) http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=101266&highlight=downpipe. Once that is done I’ll drop the pan and start from the oil drains and try to finish it up before next Friday. My goal is to take no more than 1 week (but still take my time). I’m somewhat of a perfectionist when it comes to this stuff.

I’ll try to document as much as I can, but obviously won’t be able to detail everything. If there is something specific you want to see call it out now and I’ll try to capture it.
 

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I vote for sticky.
 

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Non Denominational Car Nut
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Dont forget if you ever plan on racing your car you will need
to add an external kill switch or they wont let you run.
 

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I want a part # & source for the windshield wash tank they use as the new coolant overflow.
 

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Doric said:
Let's wait until it's complete. It will be infinitely more valuable then.
I put it on there as Private already. I'll make it live once he okays it. I basically just copied and pasted the info and uploaded the images.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I finally got around to finishing up the battery relocation last night. I was too lazy to take pictures (and it was too dark anyway), but I will briefly outline the remaining steps here so that someone searching can see what it takes.

First step is to remove the glove box. This is pretty easy; from the inside of the glove box remove the stoppers that keep it from opening too far. You need to slide them up toward the latch to get them out. Once this is done you hold the lid about 3/4 closed and pull out. It should come right out.

Now remove the little panel that has the light in it (that sits under the box).

You will see the BCM sitting there (gray flat box). Unplug the connectors and remove it (this will give you room to get your hands up to the grommet on the firewall. The unused grommet is at the far right hand corner of the firewall not too far from the big grommet for the main wiring harness. It is rubber and pretty easy to pull out from the inside.

Now that you have the place to run the wire through the firewall it is time to get the interior ready for the wire run. First step is to remove the back seats. This is real easy. Feel around each corner of the bottom cushions and you will find a tiny little handle attached to a wire. Pull these handles and lift up on the cushion (the seat will release). Pull it out of the car. Once the bottom is removed you will see two bolts that hold the back support cushions. Remove those and then slide the cushions up (toward the roof) and they will come right out. Again remove these from the car.

Now you need to remove the plastic sill panel cover on the right hand side of the car. Start by removing the seat track cover. This is pretty easy but hard to explain. There are two pieces to the seat track cover and you need to separate at the seam (near the rear of the seat). The shop manual shows a good picture of this. Once that is out of the way you can remove the main part of the sill cover.

If you look at the sill cover you will see an area that has some grooves in it (looks like a skid plate). Remove that panel carefully by prying on it a bit. This will expose the screws that hold the main part of the sill panel in place. Remove the front seat belt bolt attached to the sill panel and you should be able to pull the entire sill panel out of the car (there are some tabs in the rear that will require you to pull the panel toward the center of the car. I think there is also a little plastic rivet back there that needs to be removed (it is all pretty obvious).

The rest of the job is very straightforward. There is a plastic cover under the glove box that meets up with the sill that you will want to remove. It has two screws holding it in place (very obvious). From there just follow the factory wiring that runs in this area and you should be fine. I used a coat hanger to pull the wire though the existing pass through hole in the trunk that can easily be seen once you get the carpeted gas tank cover out of the way.

It is probably a 1-2hr job to run the wire and put everything back together. It took me a bit longer since I was not sure of the exact methodology to use until I got in there and started messing around. I also poked an extra hole in the firewall since I decided to run two wires for extra capacity.

It also took some time to find a good place for the distribution block. I fabricated a litte mount for that and utilized some existing studs near the ABS block.
 

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lsXfanatic said:
......The reason being is that the optima battery is completely sealed and requires no ventilation. This also means it can be mounted in any position (sideways…) It is a bit expensive, but you end up with a better battery and don’t have to spend the money on a battery box.

...
LSX, I went thru the batt. relocation battle with NHRA, and by the book you must still encase the battery into an approved box, no matter if it's dry cell or wet cell. Furthermore, if you plan to race it at the track you'll need a shutoff switch installed in the rear most part of the car to shut the engine down in case of emergency. I know the rule sounds stupid but they dont want the battery to be a launch object in case of accident. The best way from getting red flagged is to not show them your trunk - worked for me few times, I mean it's not like they look for battery! good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I can see where they would have that rule, but I never go to a NHRA track (so no worries for me).

I've also noticed that hardly any tarack takes a hard look at a modern car like the GTO. They just expect it to be stock/head/cam.... They do start taking a hard look as soon as you start trapping in the 130s. They usually bust you for the lack of a roll before anything else.
 

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Not to sure when the mph flags start getting attention , but I do know that when ET's start dipping below 11.50's, they're looking and asking questions.
The only MPH requirement I'm aware of , is at 150- is a parachute, at least it used to be, it's been awhile since I had to think about that.:confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Braz'in06 said:
Not to sure when the mph flags start getting attention , but I do know that when ET's start dipping below 11.50's, they're looking and asking questions.
The only MPH requirement I'm aware of , is at 150- is a parachute, at least it used to be, it's been awhile since I had to think about that.:confused:
NHRA and IHRA have a similar rule on trap speed (although it is not always enforced). This is from the NHRA site.

A full roll cage is required in any vehicle running 9.99 seconds or quicker, and any vehicle running 135 mph or faster (regardless of e.t.).
That is a 10pt cage with a full halo (not just a roll bar). Most IRS cars hit 135 way before they get to the 9s. That is why the officials at most tracks have their ears perk up as soon you start trapping 130s. They know most people don't have the right equipment for those speeds.

It happens to me everytime I take my c5 to the track. They don't even look at it until I trap above 130, then they come over planning to kick me off, but are always satisfied when they see the roll cage, harness... (although it is only a 5 point with no halo).
 
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