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Most forums I’m on have gone to this format. I noticed I get email notices about activity from this site and impalass at the same time.

OP - post a pic when able of your specific situation. If the scoring isn’t major and you dont hear it then might just have to shave the nut down some more
 

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Wol Gemut
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I gotta look where mine is now. I had no issues with this.
 

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2006 GTO C.G.M. 6 spd., h-pipe, flowmaster mufflers, DSS 1000 1 pc. Driveshaft
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150 Posts
Discussion Starter #24
I've seen a YouTube video of someone with an automatic having a tin clunk sound when putting into gear with theirs as well.

I have a red diff mount as well just lifted car up and looked. I rotated the driveshaft as well it nicked the edge of the cage nut.
 

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2006 GTO C.G.M. 6 spd., h-pipe, flowmaster mufflers, DSS 1000 1 pc. Driveshaft
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Discussion Starter #27
To be honest. I feel like i shouldn't have to. I feel like the bolt should be enough. My kid rides in this car from time to time. I feel as though if that wasn't where it was. There would be zero issues cause the clearance from the nut to driveshaft is just enough as it is. The weights definitely throw a wrench into things now. I should've just bought new guibos for my old driveshaft.
 

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2006 GTO C.G.M. 6 spd., h-pipe, flowmaster mufflers, DSS 1000 1 pc. Driveshaft
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Discussion Starter #28
Also. To be clear this driveshaft is definitely worth the money. Well made piece. Just my bad luck of weight placement on the driveshaft.
 

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I was in the same situation as you couple weeks ago. Dumped the clutch and carrier bearing gave up. Figured I could replace it, again, or buy a 1 piece and be done. Price wise I knew I was going to come out of pocket for it so I found mine used for $525 shipped to my door. Rebuilt 2-piece would have been maybe $250 in parts with knowing that I have wear parts in there. I figured the extra money for the 1 piece would bring that piece of mine and whatever reported benefits.

so far no regrets. Have just revved it to about 4500 and maybe 50mph. No issue aside from the random u-joint clunk and all my clunks are gone. I’ve longed for my car to feel like a modern muscle car and didn’t think it’d be possible with this car. I seriously just want to drive it now just to drive it And that’s just from some driveway and runs around the block.

moral of the story, if you’re not game for mods when modding then yeah, go back to stock and not trying to be a jerk at all.
Each car will be unique and you may be the lucky guy who has to adjust pinion angle, trim extra and add a diff insert 🤷🏼‍♂️
I mean I was glad my shaft wasn’t the early “long” style that I read about people getting where the front flange bottoms into the transmission case. It is the “universal” design with the adapter plate though.
 

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2006 GTO C.G.M. 6 spd., h-pipe, flowmaster mufflers, DSS 1000 1 pc. Driveshaft
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Discussion Starter #30
Yea. I agree. My carrier bearing was shot replaced that then had a slight vibration on take off. Im the type that will spend money on good parts to not have issues. This isnt about not modding the car. Im just discouraged it wasn't just a throw it in with 2 modifications and run it. Thats all. I thought it would have been a simple whew wont have to worry about that anymore type deal. Cause like you said. It definitely makes the car alot better than stock, definitely a difference. Where did you gets yours?
 

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2006 GTO C.G.M. 6 spd., h-pipe, flowmaster mufflers, DSS 1000 1 pc. Driveshaft
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Discussion Starter #32
Nice. Thats sweet man.
 

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To be honest. I feel like i shouldn't have to. I feel like the bolt should be enough. My kid rides in this car from time to time. I feel as though if that wasn't where it was. There would be zero issues cause the clearance from the nut to driveshaft is just enough as it is. The weights definitely throw a wrench into things now. I should've just bought new guibos for my old driveshaft.
I agree.

I was in the same situation as you couple weeks ago. Dumped the clutch and carrier bearing gave up. Figured I could replace it, again, or buy a 1 piece and be done. Price wise I knew I was going to come out of pocket for it so I found mine used for $525 shipped to my door. Rebuilt 2-piece would have been maybe $250 in parts with knowing that I have wear parts in there. I figured the extra money for the 1 piece would bring that piece of mine and whatever reported benefits.

so far no regrets. Have just revved it to about 4500 and maybe 50mph. No issue aside from the random u-joint clunk and all my clunks are gone. I’ve longed for my car to feel like a modern muscle car and didn’t think it’d be possible with this car. I seriously just want to drive it now just to drive it And that’s just from some driveway and runs around the block.

moral of the story, if you’re not game for mods when modding then yeah, go back to stock and not trying to be a jerk at all.
Each car will be unique and you may be the lucky guy who has to adjust pinion angle, trim extra and add a diff insert 🤷🏼‍♂️
I mean I was glad my shaft wasn’t the early “long” style that I read about people getting where the front flange bottoms into the transmission case. It is the “universal” design with the adapter plate though.
Kfxgai had a thread a while back about the DS lengths. The overall length of the driveshaft should be the same for all cars, measured from rear guibo to the end of the front yoke. The problem is mixing and matching yokes and driveshafts, iirc.
 

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2006 GTO C.G.M. 6 spd., h-pipe, flowmaster mufflers, DSS 1000 1 pc. Driveshaft
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Discussion Starter #35
Mine did not come with any instructions. I did my research prior to even purchasing this driveshaft. I still have the box in my basement just in case. Glad I kept it. Ill be calling csp Tuesday morning since that is where I bought it through. I know the DSS is a legit company. Thats why I forked over the money. Im just woried to drive it now kinda like its in limbo cause now its a "used part" to a seller. Idk. We shall see.
 

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Sucky situation indeed. Keep us posted and I hope it all works out for ya.
Feel like you may end up having to reverse the nut/bolt for more clearance but won’t know until you can get an idea for how much more room you need. like cutting the nut out and welding a slim head bolt from under and securing the nut from the inside. Granted still a lot of work for a pricey “standard item”.

Maybe shimming the diff down night help if it doesn’t throw your driveline angles out too much?
 

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Sucky situation indeed. Keep us posted and I hope it all works out for ya.
Feel like you may end up having to reverse the nut/bolt for more clearance but won’t know until you can get an idea for how much more room you need. like cutting the nut out and welding a slim head bolt from under and securing the nut from the inside. Granted still a lot of work for a pricey “standard item”.

Maybe shimming the diff down night help if it doesn’t throw your driveline angles out too much?
I just checked, i forgot the the DSS aluminium driveshafts are thicker than the carbon. All the same, with the bolts removed or ground down, it should clear.

I would still avoid shaving the nuts down unless you don't ever plan on returning the car to stock. Most folks have enough clearance. OP has another issue that is closing up that gap.
 

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Have someone look under the car to see how much the subframe moves when you put it in gear. My bet is still that there is something wrong with those bushings.
 

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I agree.



Kfxgai had a thread a while back about the DS lengths. The overall length of the driveshaft should be the same for all cars, measured from rear guibo to the end of the front yoke. The problem is mixing and matching yokes and driveshafts, iirc.
i member reading a thread while I was fixin to put mine on. Some guy had a longer 1 piece issue in a ‘04 I believe. He too bought it used, the yoke was touching the housing or seal, either way no room for flexing is what he had. Kinda sparked a debate between DSS and gforce with one if saying they had the secret sauce that worked for all years - both talking about ‘04’s and early ‘05’s having a shorter shaft.
I have the early DSS design that has the universal adapter plate that works for all year flanges, whether or not the ls1 cars take a shorter shaft is another deal.
 

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Do a search for that thread. You might find it interesting. It both is and is not a myth.

The problem with buying used stuff is that people can mix and match to make a "whole part" and not realize what they are actually doing.
 
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