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I have stock bottom end 05 manual with Fast 102,1 3/4 long tubes catless full exhaust,391,x air,nitrous outlet plate kit. I want to change heads and valvetrain to get max hp/tq. Its a low mileage garage queen that sees drag strip. I have been [email protected] on 150 shot but it is a chore to get bottles filled and after feeling the extra power I would like more power off the bottle and only use bottle at the track with a smaller shot. I am looking at trickflow 225 ls2 heads but can not make a decision? Looking for proven combo can you all help an old man out? Not looking for dyno numbers as much as time slips
 

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Personally I'd just email ed over at flowtech he will get you where you need to be.

For heads I'd port your set of 243 heads.It can be done for half the price of trick flows. Then reuse your rockers and just have the bushings installed. Get a good set of lifters, replace the oil pump, new pushrods, etc.

The price to go from 470rwhp to 500rwhp is huge. So just keep in mind the car will pick up about 120rwhp for say 2.5k-3k but to get that extra 30 will cost another 2.5k to 3k
 

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Personally I'd just email ed over at flowtech he will get you where you need to be.

For heads I'd port your set of 243 heads.It can be done for half the price of trick flows. Then reuse your rockers and just have the bushings installed. Get a good set of lifters, replace the oil pump, new pushrods, etc.

The price to go from 470rwhp to 500rwhp is huge. So just keep in mind the car will pick up about 120rwhp for say 2.5k-3k but to get that extra 30 will cost another 2.5k to 3k
Crazy how that works with these engines.

I see so many cathedral and rectangle port strokers and even h/c LS3's that are still under 500whp.

Have an LS7, you sneeze at it and it makes 650+

I think the most cost effective way is a homemade front mount single turbo kit.
 

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If money isnt a concern deff do aftermarket castings over ported stock heads.

PrC 227s, TFS cleaned up by brian tooley, Mamo 220s. Lots of options
 

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I have stock bottom end 05 manual with Fast 102,1 3/4 long tubes catless full exhaust,391,x air,nitrous outlet plate kit. I want to change heads and valvetrain to get max hp/tq. Its a low mileage garage queen that sees drag strip. I have been [email protected] on 150 shot but it is a chore to get bottles filled and after feeling the extra power I would like more power off the bottle and only use bottle at the track with a smaller shot. I am looking at trickflow 225 ls2 heads but can not make a decision? Looking for proven combo can you all help an old man out? Not looking for dyno numbers as much as time slips
As long as your driveline is up to the task, we can make some serious power for you.
 

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Crazy how that works with these engines.

I see so many cathedral and rectangle port strokers and even h/c LS3's that are still under 500whp.

Have an LS7, you sneeze at it and it makes 650+

I think the most cost effective way is a homemade front mount single turbo kit.
lol, I agree......
 

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Personally I'd just email ed over at flowtech he will get you where you need to be.

For heads I'd port your set of 243 heads.It can be done for half the price of trick flows. Then reuse your rockers and just have the bushings installed. Get a good set of lifters, replace the oil pump, new pushrods, etc.

The price to go from 470rwhp to 500rwhp is huge. So just keep in mind the car will pick up about 120rwhp for say 2.5k-3k but to get that extra 30 will cost another 2.5k to 3k

if the car is low miles, under 85K, There is ZERO reason to replace the oil pump or lifter. Definately install hardened pushrods and a CHE bushing kit in the rocker arms. I would install a double roller timing chain if you have the $$, if not dont worry about it. A add on chain idler would be a good thing to do but not necessary. In the LS vehicles ive done cams or cam and heads, I never replaced the oil pump or lifters and i have no issues. HOWEVER, my buddy listened to the internets and put a hv or hp melling pump (dont remember which) and that caused him to have oil pressure problems. The factory oil pump with 150K miles on it is better than a shitty brand new melling. I will not EVER replace an oil pump (one of vehicles had 180K when I put a cam in) under there is an issue with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
As long as your driveline is up to the task, we can make some serious power for you.
I think I have been in touch with you sir. Looking forward to my upgrades we are discussing. I am sending trans out to Tick for upgrades and diff axles,and stubs are done. Have drive shaft loop so push stocker till it fails.
 

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if the car is low miles, under 85K, There is ZERO reason to replace the oil pump or lifter. Definately install hardened pushrods and a CHE bushing kit in the rocker arms.
My new oil pump works fine and I dont have to worry about the ls2 pump valve breaking. As far as lifters I think its a general rule of thumb to change them. Each their own
 

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My new oil pump works fine and I dont have to worry about the ls2 pump valve breaking. As far as lifters I think its a general rule of thumb to change them. Each their own
why is it a rule? Is there something I dont know? I've never wasted my money changing them if theres no problem. So If someone does a cam, they should pull their heads and change lifters? Or is that only with a head swap? Even still....why fix it if it aint broke?
 

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I put new "better" lifters in when I did heads. 100k miles and they lived a good life. Only a couple hundred bucks and so simple to do while heads are off.
 

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why is it a rule? Is there something I dont know? I've never wasted my money changing them if theres no problem. So If someone does a cam, they should pull their heads and change lifters? Or is that only with a head swap? Even still....why fix it if it aint broke?
Why people change lifters:
Depending on the year the plastic buckets can be better or worse. Plus with the age of these cars its a good idea to at least change the buckets as they are what stops the lifter from turning and wiping out a cam load. And when people are changing buckets they change lifters because why not.

Why fix it before it aint broke:
When going up in cam size the loads are a lot greater with bigger springs, more agressive ramps, and higher lift. So the stock lifter could collapse or break a wheel off because it wasn't designed to withstand those loads. From what I've seen a lot of people do ls7 lifters because they have a thicker feature next to the wheel. Personally I just spent the money and did morel link bars because no more tray and they are supposed to support aftermarket cam loads.

Is any of this necessary no. But the people that sell the parts recommend it haha
 

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The reason these items are recommended for replacement during a camshaft change is because, as soon as these factory pieces fail, the first person blamed is the provider of the camshaft, not the person who didn't want to spend the money to install new parts...
 

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Well I guess I like keep my money when I can and I like to live life dangerously. Thats why I weld in flip flops, and dont change oil pumps and lifters if they are in good working order. Maybe it'll bite me one day, but I've seen new lifters fail, personally seen people put a new oil pump on and cause a short life to their engine. Especially melling pumps, I would not use one in an LS (sbc is a different story) if you gave me a brand new one. I've also seen people not have issues, but I havent seen someone leave the stuff alone and then have a problem shortly after. Thats my reasoning. And yea, people who are selling you stuff will always recommend things to sell to you. Thats a given. Sometimes its needed stuff, sometimes its a supposed preventative maintenance. Like you said earlier, to each their own i guess. No worries, do whatever you wanna do.
 

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I have learned through the years the "while in the neighborhood approach".
If while fixing something broke (must be fixed) I have easy access to something else that is working fine currently however has exceeded normal replacement predictions and is not overly expensive I will replace it. Yes it can be expensive at times but I have the piece of mind that it should last longer before I have to visit that area again.

I rebuilt and helped others rebuilding engines. Well the first four engines I rebuilt all lost their water pumps within 500 miles of being rebuilt!..I started checking what I was doing after 2 time and I could find nothing wrong, neither could others on the next 2 rebuilds (more eyes the better,lol). Well the 5th engine I rebuilt,,I put in new water pump and since then I have continued the "New water pump logic". All my friends teased me and use to say: "make sure you get Brad to help, because he'll bring a new water pump with him when he comes to help and you don't have to pay for it, he will, lol.
One friend has a picture of me getting out of my car, coming to join the rebuilders - carrying a new water pump box. Never had anymore water pump failures ever. Still have the friends, also.
 
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