LS1GTO Forums banner

1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I now have a bum left knee so I HAD to go with an A4. Whats the best way to get this beast off the line faster? :banghead: I dont have a lot of experience with Automatics, all my muscle cars were standards. Should I shift manually? Im sick of watching the lighter cars pull out in front of me off the line (including a Mustage 4.7L this afternoon). Sure I eventually catch and pass them, but I dont ever want to see their back bumbers again. :eek2:
 

·
Captain Thread Killer returns
Joined
·
21,898 Posts
conan said:
I now have a bum left knee so I HAD to go with an A4. Whats the best way to get this beast off the line faster? :banghead: I dont have a lot of experience with Automatics, all my muscle cars were standards. Should I shift manually? Im sick of watching the lighter cars pull out in front of me off the line (including a Mustage 4.7L this afternoon). Sure I eventually catch and pass them, but I dont ever want to see their back bumbers again. :eek2:
I have been to the track only once in mine and I do think it would be better to shift it yourself.
 

·
Resident 10-second Priest
Joined
·
8,959 Posts
A higher stall torque converter will help on the launches when drag-racing. You might also consider changing out the gears to 3.73's. It'll be much more responsive.

For road racing, a good tune on the shift-points might help. Stock, it only kicks-down at WOT. Tweak it a bit and you can get it to kick down at partial-throttle like a manual.

More later if you're interested.

Padre
 

·
4L60E+moded ls1+saudi = bad
Joined
·
710 Posts
with the right mods and the right converter, A4's can kick M6's A$$.
I agree with Padre , didnt leave anythin to say here hehe
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
36 Posts
Few ideas

3.73, 3500 stall (getting high for street - max 3000 if your car is a daily driver), LS1 Edit to change shift points and line pressure in power mode, traction control off, don't manual shift. (try starting in both 3 and D and see if it makes a difference)
 

·
Oh my f*ck!
Joined
·
6,464 Posts
What is the effect of changing the torque converter and how is it that it affects daily drivability?
 

·
Gone but not forgotten
Joined
·
4,672 Posts
phobos512 said:
What is the effect of changing the torque converter and how is it that it affects daily drivability?
a high stall torque converter raises the RPMs at which the transmission engages. this means for drag racing that as soon as the transmission engages you are right in the power band imeddiatly.

however a HSTC will kill your gas mileage in city driving b/c any RPM below the stall point, and the car will barely move. thing about it like driving with the clutch just barely engaged.
think about it this way. if you are in bumper to bumper traffic and you need to move fowards just a few feet. you might have to rev it up to 2000 or 25000 RPMs, just to start creeping. you can imagine what that does to MPG
 

·
Resident 10-second Priest
Joined
·
8,959 Posts
whiffer said:
And whats a rough estimate on how much the stuff costs if i may ask?
About $600 for the torque converter and roughly $250 on the install. ProTorque, Vigilante, Yank all sell them (check with TByrne, sponsor on the left). GTOdriver7 describes its daily driveability well.

Padre
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
98 Posts
conan said:
I now have a bum left knee so I HAD to go with an A4. Whats the best way to get this beast off the line faster? :banghead: I dont have a lot of experience with Automatics, all my muscle cars were standards. Should I shift manually? Im sick of watching the lighter cars pull out in front of me off the line (including a Mustage 4.7L this afternoon). Sure I eventually catch and pass them, but I dont ever want to see their back bumbers again. :eek2:
Just let it shift itself.
 

·
4L60E+moded ls1+saudi = bad
Joined
·
710 Posts
whipplegto said:
3.73, 3500 stall (getting high for street - max 3000 if your car is a daily driver), LS1 Edit to change shift points and line pressure in power mode, traction control off, don't manual shift. (try starting in both 3 and D and see if it makes a difference)
I dont know but.. i guess D didnt do much to me. the best 0-60 i got with a D was 6.4 lol while i got 5.7 shifting manualy.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
160 Posts
A4 from Line

Whether you have TC and shift point mods or not you need to determine the rpm just prior to wheel spin. I have an M6 so I can't say for sure.

I did have a highly modified 96 Impala SS with an A4. Launched at 1800 rpm and 60' times were around 1.8 - 1.9. Ran 13.2 @ 101. Not to shabby for a 4300 lb car. Unless you have a shift light I would let it shift itself.

The more passes you do, the better you'll get.

slick50
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
slick50 said:
Whether you have TC and shift point mods or not you need to determine the rpm just prior to wheel spin. I have an M6 so I can't say for sure.

I did have a highly modified 96 Impala SS with an A4. Launched at 1800 rpm and 60' times were around 1.8 - 1.9. Ran 13.2 @ 101. Not to shabby for a 4300 lb car. Unless you have a shift light I would let it shift itself.

The more passes you do, the better you'll get.

slick50
Thanks, the more info the better. My puter has been down since hurricane Chuck so I havent had the opportunity to get online. I appreciate all your comments. It seems like it shifts into 2nd, 3rd then 4th way too soon and not getting any use of this 350 horses.
Converter will void the warranty, correct? Maybe I should try a tune first? :banghead:
 

·
Oh my f*ck!
Joined
·
6,464 Posts
conan said:
Thanks, the more info the better. My puter has been down since hurricane Chuck so I havent had the opportunity to get online. I appreciate all your comments. It seems like it shifts into 2nd, 3rd then 4th way too soon and not getting any use of this 350 horses.
Converter will void the warranty, correct? Maybe I should try a tune first? :banghead:
It will of course always shift at low-RPM with part throttle driving - at WOT though it should shift at redline or a little past. Is yours not doing that?
 

·
ya im french what of it !
Joined
·
800 Posts
start in 3rd -when your at the light step on the brake holding the brake step on gas till u feel the car wanting to go hold there till light gose green then puch it remeber theres like a second delay when u shift from 3rd to D once u shift u should avoid wot kick down

if u notice when u just puch it in drive it will kick down gear and has that delay then it lunches ,thats what can hurt ya in a race

few races from light to light just stay in 3rd but watch the rpm"S
over time you will get use to the sound of the car and u can shift with out looking at rpm"s

when im around town and just doing light to light races i just stay in 3rd, uses little more gas but will jump much better at lights in the auto u can hit 90 in 3rd easy.corse on longer run shift to D then punch it a soon as u feel it go to D gear
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
29 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
phobos512 said:
It will of course always shift at low-RPM with part throttle driving - at WOT though it should shift at redline or a little past. Is yours not doing that?
No its not, thats why Im baffeled. I had it punched today from a dead stop and the car still shifted way too soon in all gears leaving me with too low RPMs and not enough H.P. :eek2:
 

·
The Ghost & the Darkness
Joined
·
2,273 Posts
conan said:
No its not, thats why Im baffeled. I had it punched today from a dead stop and the car still shifted way too soon in all gears leaving me with too low RPMs and not enough H.P. :eek2:
Shift it manually.

Kill the TC and drop it into first.

Punch it hard (it can take it) and shift into second at 5500 rpm.
Hold the acceleration steady (don't let off the beast!) and shift
into third at 5500 rpm.

If the race isn't over by then, maintain the acceleration until you hit 5500 rpm and slide into Drive.

Watch your launch as you will spin the tires. Learn the rpm's where it just breaks traction and keep it under that mark until she's moving.

Practice, practice, practice! :secret:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
forced induction is the only way to go with the A4s, generally there not fast cars(minus the s4) try an intake and exuast, even with the right launch ur not going to take to much cars off the line, try some minor mods at the least.
but a turbo or turbo swap REALLY wakes those A4s up.
 

·
Future GTO owner
Joined
·
8 Posts
wouldnt one of those computer tuner things be good, my cousin has one for his 5.3L truck and he can adjust shifts and other stuff within the computer....his was like $500 bucks. just an idea
 
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top