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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi folks!
Just installed the above mentioned part and I have a question. Is the amount of torque listed in previous threads about this item from GM or is it someone's best guess at what the torque setting on the center nut should be? My reason, I cannot get the torque on the nut above 90lb/ft. No matter what I do, it will not go above that number. The doggone bush flexes so much and there is no more movement on the nut.

What, if anything, am I doing wrong? Beginning to think I can't handle a torque wrench. Any ideas? Thanks.:)
 

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Helms, page 3-3, front lower control arm rod replacement:

Tighten the four nuts to to retain the insulator bushing to the frame. Tighten the four nuts to 23 Nm (17 lb ft).

Reinstall the tire wheel assy. Lower the car. Jouncethe ront bumper three times to settle the suspension.

Torque the big nut that retains the front lower control arm rod to the insulator bushing. Torque the nut to 148Nm (109 lb ft).

That's all I got, I took mine to a professional.
 

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You're lucky with these minor quibbles ! My Noltec radius rod set required 1/4" of fender washers to fit. The vendor (sadly, site sponsor) sent me an opened set, and man did I find out why ! So ... if the metal tube seems too long, and you can't torque down the assembly, you might be on your way for fender washers.

Just a sideline suggestion, YMMV.
 

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wango-z-tango said:
You're lucky with these minor quibbles ! My Noltec radius rod set required 1/4" of fender washers to fit. The vendor (sadly, site sponsor) sent me an opened set, and man did I find out why ! So ... if the metal tube seems too long, and you can't torque down the assembly, you might be on your way for fender washers.

Just a sideline suggestion, YMMV.
Even if the tube is too long you ought to be able to torque it down to 109ft-lbs.
I did mine myself and I had to jack the car up slightly to get enough leverage to get the full torque on the big nuts. I had a lot of flex out the bushing too.
 

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Had the same problem.... here's what I did:

After getting it as tight as you can, jack the car up slightly to get more elbow room. The bush will compress and turn a bit, but keep tugging... it will let you torque it down more. Not sure if pulling the tq wrench quickly or slowly finally did it, but you will be able to hit 109.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well....
I finally got it fixed. After torquing the bushes down as far as I could get them, the car sat overnight and after church I simply raised it in the air, applied a little more force and voila, right at 109. Thanks everyone!
Thanks to everyone that offered their help. That's what I love about this forum, when someone needs help or guidance, you folks are quick to step in and offer it.

BTW- Everyone is correct about these things making a difference. I cannot believe that they are not put on at the factory. Huge difference in feel and in braking. Excellent mod. :)
 

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tgunnd39 said:
Well....
I finally got it fixed. After torquing the bushes down as far as I could get them, the car sat overnight and after church I simply raised it in the air, applied a little more force and voila, right at 109. Thanks everyone!
Thanks to everyone that offered their help. That's what I love about this forum, when someone needs help or guidance, you folks are quick to step in and offer it.

BTW- Everyone is correct about these things making a difference. I cannot believe that they are not put on at the factory. Huge difference in feel and in braking. Excellent mod. :)

Glad it worked out for you. What shim configuration did you decide on.

Mike
dms
 

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wango-z-tango said:
You're lucky with these minor quibbles ! My Noltec radius rod set required 1/4" of fender washers to fit. The vendor (sadly, site sponsor) sent me an opened set, and man did I find out why ! So ... if the metal tube seems too long, and you can't torque down the assembly, you might be on your way for fender washers.

Just a sideline suggestion, YMMV.

6 washers per side and they all sit on the tube or there will be play. No fender washers should be used if installed correctly. Your package was not opened, sometimes from Aus. the packaging gets damaged and needs to be checked and repacked. Do some research, these are the best bushings available, period.

Please call us with any questions you may have on installing it correctly.
 

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tgunnd39 said:
.... and after church....

Well there ya go, just have a little faith.... heheh

And yes, there's alot of good people on these forums, such as Mike from DMS.
 

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Anyone else have one of those 4 bolts that hold the plate on break?

The bolt snapped with the TQ Wrench set to 17 and yes I double check it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Mike w/DMS

I went with the standard setting. Didn't feel I needed to change it. I may be getting in touch with you to have the Pedders struts and shocks installed. From what I have read, they are a significant improvement in ride and feel. Any thoughts? And again, thanks to everyone.
 

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tgunnd39 said:
Mike w/DMS

I went with the standard setting. Didn't feel I needed to change it. I may be getting in touch with you to have the Pedders struts and shocks installed. From what I have read, they are a significant improvement in ride and feel. Any thoughts? And again, thanks to everyone.

The Pedders struts and shocks make a big difference. I have a new GTO with a complete Street II system for those who want to feel the difference in stock and available.

mike
dms
 

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And I have one in New Jersey For you to drive if anybody would like to.I will beback On Monday just send me a p/m or call me 908-892-1882...Frank.... Nationwide PEDDERS DEALER aim to PLEASE....
 
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