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I am fairly capable of turning a wrench but am in no stretch of the imagination a mechanic. That being said I know nothing about suspension. I’ve recently starting feeling some vibration when my car is turning left. I can feel my drivers side front suspension almost rocking back and forth (almost pivoting it feels like) when rolling up curbs into parking lots. I was hoping that it was a control arm but I took some pictures. Can anyone help pinpoint what is wrong? It looks like the rubber boot on the shock itself is done but I wouldn’t imagine that would cause the problems I’ve mentioned.

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Does the tire still make contact with the strut?
All of the bushings are prolly shot. Id jack the are up and give the wheel a wiggle. See if anything is clacking or has play.
Both of the radius rod bushings are prolly the worst next to the strut bushing. Id start there as well as a ball joint or tie rod.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The tire rocks from front to back of the car. I don’t hear any clacking or creaking. But changing the control arm wouldn’t be a bad idea in this situation right?
 

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I am fairly capable of turning a wrench but am in no stretch of the imagination a mechanic. That being said I know nothing about suspension. I’ve recently starting feeling some vibration when my car is turning left. I can feel my drivers side front suspension almost rocking back and forth (almost pivoting it feels like) when rolling up curbs into parking lots. I was hoping that it was a control arm but I took some pictures. Can anyone help pinpoint what is wrong? It looks like the rubber boot on the shock itself is done but I wouldn’t imagine that would cause the problems I’ve mentioned.

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The boot on the strut doesn't effect the suspension, weather it does anything at all is open to debate. You are still rolling on factory bushings and lucky to be alive, replace them with urethane. There are 3 per side; radius rod front and 2 on the control arm, you can probably find them as a set. By the looks there hasn't been much attention paid to the front end so outer tie rod ends are a good idea. Also look at the sway bar end links, OEM are notorious for bending. Also check the top strut mount, the bearings usually go south and if it is still OEM you should change them as well. If you DIY it's going to be @ $400 in parts, maybe a little more. The work is not real hard if you know one end of a wrench from the other, the control arms can (by the looks your's are almost certain to) be a SOB but not impossibal by any means. If you don't want to fool with them take them to a machine shop and have them pressed out, replacements do not require a press. When you get done you will honestly think it is an entirely different car, no kidding.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the response guys. Currently ordering some white line control arms with all the bushings and ball joints as well as front radius rod bushings as well. I guess I’ll go ahead and add strut mount bushings as well seeing as I am pretty sure they have never been changed and are still OEM. I would also assume that after changing everything that I need to bring it to get aligned correct?
 

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Smart move on the whiteline cintrol arms. Replacing those balljoints and bushings are by far the worst job i have done on the gto haha... i wished i would jusy bought the whitelines with the pre-installed bushings lol
 

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+1 on buying pre-pressed bushings where possible. No shame in spending extra cash to save yourself time and skill that you think you have. Find a shop to do it for you if you can.
I have the tools and a little know how and regret not buying them pre-pressed every time.
 

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I do wonder about the quality of the ball joints whiteline uses, or any aftermarket unit. i have no experience with them, though. having used roadsafe tie rods, i wasn't too happy as i've already had to replace a replacement. can anyone tell me anything?

just as a recommendation, i would get the whiteline adjustable radius rod castors, not the cheapo version they sell. they seem a lot more robustly constructed, and of course the caster is adjustable. i think the part number is W82047. the cheaper version is W82047E

if you are sticking with the stock front swaybar, moog makes the best end links. just don't try poly bushings with them, use the supplied rubber bushings.

and if you want new hardware, especially those goofy radius-rod-to-control-arm nuts, wretched motor sports is the place. i wouldn't recommend using the pedders OR the GM replacement strut-clevis to steering knuckle bolts. i wouldn't trust any bolt without a class or grade marking.

oh, and don't use kyb strut mount bushings. they pretty much collapse upon install, lol. only use GM strut bellows. practically everyone else sells a cheapo aftermarket version that won't fit, i think it's the same strut bellow from the f-bodies that they are incorrectly reselling, not sure on that one. spend the extra cash on the right strut bellows.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
You guys are awesome. Thanks for the info and help. Parts are ordered. Hoping everything comes in soon and I can get up under there Friday and have it all put back together so I can drive it this weekend. Wish me luck and thanks again everyone.
 

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You guys are awesome. Thanks for the info and help. Parts are ordered. Hoping everything comes in soon and I can get up under there Friday and have it all put back together so I can drive it this weekend. Wish me luck and thanks again everyone.
I forgot to mention the struts/springs themselves, sure to be toast.
 

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Impact needed. try to wedge something between the nut and arm if you have the room. If not tap the arm to try and put resistance while hitting it with the impact. If you’re lucky some have a hex head on top that you can use to keep it from moving.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Impact needed. try to wedge something between the nut and arm if you have the room. If not tap the arm to try and put resistance while hitting it with the impact. If you’re lucky some have a hex head on top that you can use to keep it from moving.
So my problem with the impact is that there is no room to get a socket over the nut they way that knuckle is designed. I’ve got one trick to try in the morning. Was getting close to taking a saw to the nut seeing as that I won’t be needing the current one.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
For all that is involved with those CRs you'd be just as well off to buy a set new with the ball joints already installed.
The new set has all new bushings and ball joints. Problem was getting the old ball joint off of the knuckle.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Hopefully this is the last question I have for you amazing group of people who have helped me all along this journey. I am waiting on some new tie rod ends to show up tomorrow. From there I just need to torque everything down. But my question is, which nuts/bolts should I use thread lock on? Some, all, none?
 

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I myself have never used any kind of Loc tite on any piece of suspension. Not sure what pieces call for it though. I swapped every bushing in the car early 2015. Found one ball joint but loose but that was prolly from me not even going over everything. I guess if I did it again I’d put a little blue on everything except the rr bolts. I’d put anti seize on the rod itself though.
 

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Hopefully this is the last question I have for you amazing group of people who have helped me all along this journey. I am waiting on some new tie rod ends to show up tomorrow. From there I just need to torque everything down. But my question is, which nuts/bolts should I use thread lock on? Some, all, none?
The 4 bolts that suround the front of the radius rod bushing holding it to the frame, that funky looking shoulder nut at the RR/CA connection (it's a 30mm hex), the CA pivot (inboard), brake caliper mounting bracket (the frame that bolts to the knuckle) that bracket to the caliper carrier (not the sliders) 3 around the top strut mount (also holds the cross brace) and the bottom strut mount. Tie rod end is a castle nut with pin, the rest should be self lockers. There should also be silicone grease with the bushings, do not us it on the outside of them, it can cause them to self-destruct.
 

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i'm not a big fan of nylock-type locking fasteners, or ones that use spring washers. I tend to use blue on things just to be safe.

it won't hurt anything if you decide to use it.
 
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