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I am taking my rockers off and when I did the cam install I put a bit of red loctite on the rocker arm bolts. I am noticing a bunch of little dry red loctite crystals on the bolts as I take them out. I know all of the loctite isn't coming with the bolt though. So am I at risk of any damage knowing some of these small particles got into the engine? Is there anything I can do to remedy this? I am thinking it's really nothing to worry about but I want to be sure.
Thanks in advance.
 

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CAUTION!!!!
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I don't think you would be, maybe blue loctite would have been better, but the little cystals shouldn't be an issue. Just change the oil, run it easy for a 1000 miles and change it again to inspect it if you're really worried, but I don't even think thats nessasary.
 

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and what is the loctite for?
 

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Um, you're not supposed to put loctite on those bolts, eh.
 

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dum dum dum dum dudum
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Yes you are. I wouldnt want a rocker bolt backing out on me.

I wouldnt worry about the little red particles. Ive taken mine off like 4 times and had no problems. If our cars can injest oil, Im sure a little crystal or two of that crap will be nothing. Plus they are not going inside tthe combustion chamber. They will just make their way doen to the oil pan and get picked up by the filter. If you ever see what gets trapped by the filter after about 5K miles you would not be worried at all.
 

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Oh4GTO said:
Yes you are. I wouldnt want a rocker bolt backing out on me.

I wouldnt worry about the little red particles. Ive taken mine off like 4 times and had no problems. If our cars can injest oil, Im sure a little crystal or two of that crap will be nothing. Plus they are not going inside tthe combustion chamber. They will just make their way doen to the oil pan and get picked up by the filter. If you ever see what gets trapped by the filter after about 5K miles you would not be worried at all.
The repair manual specifically states that the use of loctite on any of the internal engine bolts will be specifically stated for that application. When the proper tightening and torquing sequence is described, nowhere does it state to use thread lock. Therefore, if you put 2 and 2 together, it says not to use it.
 

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Agreed- maybe people believe in it as a precautionary measure, but how many factory installed rocker arms do you see falling off with no loctite? I used to use red on rod bolt nuts also to be safe, but that was on high RPM motors I was building- just for a bit extra insurance. It is not "required" though.
Joe
 

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Guys loctite is NOT needed on the rockers. That being said I don't think its a big deal. Change the oil and go about your business.
 

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I think that people also forget that the proper torque specs are there specifically so that the bolt does not back out. If GM or any other manufacturer felt that loctite alone is what holds engines together, then they would put it on everything. And, yeah, I've never heard of a factory installed rocker bolt backing out.
 

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Can't help ya, Sorry.
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Just for the record.. Loctite's colors are much less important than their numbers.
There are many Reds Blues Greens and Purples.. With some reds it is near imposible to remove a bolt without a torch. Most blues are the "Hand breakable/ removable" type. The Greens Tend to be penatrating (add after he part is assembled) and used mainly on small fasteners..

If I remember right 242 is the common Blue 'removable' and 274 is the common clear red "Lock" but it has been a while since I'v need to use the stuff on a regular basis..
 

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Can't help ya, Sorry.
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Another update.

I just did a bit of a search.. Loctite as most folks know it is Red, Blue and Green. That is how the consumer market is supplied. Consumer Red is 271, typicaly to remove it you need to heat the part (@ 400*F) to break it down. Blue may be 242, removable with hand tools. Green (likely 290) is a post assembly locker, used mainly to prevent small screws from coming loose due to vibration.

All the other grades are Industrial supply only. Sorry.
 

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It taste like candy but is really bad for you. Don't let the dog find it.
 

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sxty8goats said:
Another update.

I just did a bit of a search.. Loctite as most folks know it is Red, Blue and Green. That is how the consumer market is supplied. Consumer Red is 271, typicaly to remove it you need to heat the part (@ 400*F) to break it down. Blue may be 242, removable with hand tools. Green (likely 290) is a post assembly locker, used mainly to prevent small screws from coming loose due to vibration.

All the other grades are Industrial supply only. Sorry.

You beat me to it- I had my supply book open looking up the numbers when you typed this lol.
Joe
 

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OK, on LS1howto.com under Yella Terra install it says to use lock-tight on the bolts if you have ported heads. I don't know why the heads being ported makes a difference. I used blue lock-tight on them for the simple reason of security and the lock-tight acts as a lubricant when torquing the bolts so I get a true torque value. Personal preference I guess that's my .02.
 

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don't use loctite on internals

Guys,

Unless the bolt mfg or mfg of the part you are attaching says to, you should not use loctite on bolts or nuts. I have used them on studs to make sure the stud stays in when disassembling but that would be it or unless you really want something to not come apart.

Torque specs are designed to stretch a bolt or stud to provide the proper mechanical clamping forces for sealing or joining parts. The specs usually provide for the need to keep bolts tight without adhesives unless stated to use.

Having built about 40 street and race engines, I can tell you that I like loctite only for certain applications like water pumps, front covers, fuel pumps (on the block) or other attaching mechanicals. In most cases, it would be blue (removable). I use red on items that I want to keep together for a long time.

To clean up parts, use MEK or acetone or a scraper.

Last, most bolt specs are "wet" meaning application of a lube like anti-sieze or motor oil applied on the threads and on the shoulder of the bolt or face of the nut. More info applicable to bolt torguing can be found here; http://www.arp-bolts.com/Tech/TechInstall.html
 
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