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Discussion Starter #22
yeah, I saw that video. I'm still confused why replace the cover for no reason when I could just use the said tool to replace the seal alone
 

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OK, so I found the rear cover w/seal - Dorman 635518 for $35 at StoneAuto
I won't need to drop the pan for this like Service Manual suggests, right?

Alignment tool from Saccity for $47 on Ubay

<I'm not sure if I need a remote bleeder - I might already have one - how would I know without jacking the car up - where do I look for it? somewhere by the master? Which one's better- Hinson, Tick or something else? How do I choose one?>

The line will exit the bell house through the window on the drives side of the bell. Where to find it depends on the lenght, if it's a 10 foot line it might be under the spare tire but they all come out of the same place on the bell. As long as it is not a cobbled together piece of junk the brand does not matter; You can find a Russel 18"-24" at Speedway for about 30 bucks.

<I'm going to replace the pilot bearing with the one that comes with the clutch -must be a good one, right?>

A quality kit will have quality pieces, just be sure it's an elliment bearing, not plain and be sure the kit is not for a C6.

<I watched the bread trick removal video on youtube - looks legit, has anyone tried that successfully? If not - I'll borrow the slide hammer and pulley remover from O-really, or buy one at HoboFreight for $73>

If I had a spare LS2 I'd post a -Tube about fixing the crank after attempting the 'bread trick'

<I'll get the slave from Duckman with the clutch - not sure what brand, but he sells one for $85
Do I have to worry about distances and tolerances with Monster products - measuring for possible shims?>

A full kit should have everything you need but the fluid, if you piece it out slaves become debatable. Monster likely has a spec on slave height.

<I've seen people advising to replace the oil galley barbell with a billet one from Saccity while I'm at it - only $25. Is this a good idea generally?

I think that's about it and all the bases are covered, or am I missing something? Are there any tips or tricks I need to know before dropping the tranny?> Stock up on Prep-H, it's a PITA

<Oh, yeah, and I do have a short-throw shifter already, but it makes noises (rattles) and there is no heat/sound-proofing cover under it, so I hate it. I almost want to go back to stock because of the road/tranny noise and heat. AFAIK, all aftermarket short shifters have this issue, right?>

No, not when installed correctly, leave half the parts out get twice the head aches. Is it a short shifter or just a short stick? Short stick is just the stock with less leverage. If the cup and stuffing is gone it matters not what you have for a stick, noise and heat don't stop to ponder the shifter on the way into your cab. I might have a cup you can have, I will have to get back to you.
 

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Premium Member
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166 Posts
Discussion Starter #25
KM06 - I have a Hurst short shifter. I wish it came with a cup, but I asked in a different thread about this and was told that none of the aftermarket short shifters come with cups. Not sure if true or not, but I really need to solve this problem or return back to stock, so any help is greatly appreciated. Maybe there's a way to DIY a cup or stuff the well with something, IDK
 

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Discussion Starter #26
One more thing I wanted to mention.
I noticed that under hard acceleration, my shifter (and probably transmission with motor) moves back and right a little and then comes back. Is this expected on non-solid mounts or do I need to replace them?
I inspected motor mounts when I had the cradle down last year and they were in good shape visibly and what not.
Is little flexing to be expected? I really don't want to go to solid mounts, but I also don't want to replace good mounts and get the same result
 

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stock motor mounts may look fine until you actually pull them out and look, and then you discover the huge split that is inevitably in one of them. they suck. poly motor mounts work well and don't actually add a lot of nvh. the hinson mounts in my 04 work well and i can't even tell the difference in nvh, personally.
 

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One more thing I wanted to mention.
I noticed that under hard acceleration, my shifter (and probably transmission with motor) moves back and right a little and then comes back. Is this expected on non-solid mounts or do I need to replace them?
I inspected motor mounts when I had the cradle down last year and they were in good shape visibly and what not.
Is little flexing to be expected? I really don't want to go to solid mounts, but I also don't want to replace good mounts and get the same result
Transmission as well as motor mounts
 
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