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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Yea. I got sick earlier. I cracked the shit out of my paint while rolling the fender lips. I posted about it in my tire thread but I wanted to tell more about what I did here.

I got lazy at first and didn’t go get the heat gun. Big mistake. I cracked the paint by the bumper, about 3” long and it was flaking off. I started stressing. So I grabbed my electric orbital sander and some 220grit. I flaked off what I could. Then sanded and feathered it.
Looked like this:

Hood Leg Automotive lighting Automotive tire Asphalt


i taped it up. Then my original plan was to use my airbrush. Well the valve in it failed (it’s old anyways) so I tossed it in the trash and grabbed one of my small touch up hvlp guns. I put two coats of paint and let it dry for about 20 minutes.


Outerwear Blue Hood Plant Flag


matched pretty good at this point. Then I retaped it, this time a little ways from the painted part. Then two coats of nason spot clear.

Tire Wheel Automotive lighting Automotive tire Motor vehicle

Tire Wheel Automotive lighting Motor vehicle Automotive tire



you can see a tape line. That’s ok, when the clear is dry enough I’ll come back with fine grit and feather it in and buff it. Hopefully the end result is you can tell it ever happened. I’ll post more pics after I’m done.
 

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This is why I always recommend cutting vs rolling fenders. Good save though!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
This is why I always recommend cutting vs rolling fenders. Good save though!
See I had considered that. But let me explain why I’m against it.
if I cut it, the fender gets weaker and weaker. Also, if I cut it, and it still needs rolling, it’s gonna be harder to roll AND because you lost strength there, you might/probably will bow the fender out
If you cut and the tire still contacts, it’s really going to cut the tire up.

yes, I had my fenders before, but just barely. The tire got cut because (against my better judgment) my son talked me into doing a dead stop 2 step launch. Car squatted really hard. I heard it. The fender smashed down onto the tire, the rolled part got grabbed by the tire, pulled it and it scraped the tire. It’s should not do it now. I stood inside the trunk last night and bounced the car (violently lol) up and down while my son watched. He said it now tucks in the fenders and doesn’t touch. I’ll go for a drive in a little while, there’s a dip on the road coming to my house where it scraped yesterday. I also have drag bags I can use if it still contacts.
 

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2006 Pontiac GTO
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Man that sucks. Glad you had the tools and know how to correct it. If that was me I’d scream lots of profanities and probably go to a body shop where I’d pay like $1000 for that mistake…….

So yes I as well am planning on rolling or cutting in the future. Would you say with liberal amount of heat this would be “safe” to do? I’m thinking go slow and only roll it down a few degrees per pass and then re-roll to eliminate lots of stress…..

I’ve read lots of people cracking paint though still scared.

I still might puss out and have a shop do it anyway…..
 

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Man that sucks. Glad you had the tools and know how to correct it. If that was me I’d scream lots of profanities and probably go to a body shop where I’d pay like $1000 for that mistake…….

So yes I as well am planning on rolling or cutting in the future. Would you say with liberal amount of heat this would be “safe” to do? I’m thinking go slow and only roll it down a few degrees per pass and then re-roll to eliminate lots of stress…..

I’ve read lots of people cracking paint though still scared.

I still might puss out and have a shop do it anyway…..
Youll burn the paint if you arent careful with heat also
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Man that sucks. Glad you had the tools and know how to correct it. If that was me I’d scream lots of profanities and probably go to a body shop where I’d pay like $1000 for that mistake…….

So yes I as well am planning on rolling or cutting in the future. Would you say with liberal amount of heat this would be “safe” to do? I’m thinking go slow and only roll it down a few degrees per pass and then re-roll to eliminate lots of stress…..

I’ve read lots of people cracking paint though still scared.

I still might puss out and have a shop do it anyway…..
if you warm it up with a heat gun, it won’t crack the paint. You have to keep applying heat every 45sec to a minute. Just be careful fil the heat. Move the heat gun slowly but don’t hold in one spot.
I used the Eastwood roller. It worked well. My coworker had a shop do his and they used heat and it didn’t crack. If you are scared, I don’t blame you. Just find a reputable shop to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Youll burn the paint if you arent careful with heat also
Yes you will. I purposely left the heat gun in one spot where it was cracked to test the limits. It was more resilient that I thought. But just keep the heat gun moving. The side that I wasn’t too lazy to use the heat gun on did not have any issues.
 

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Nice recovery! Looks good.
I’m sure with a little more wet/dry and a mild buff you won’t notice it.

The line between softening the paint and burning it (bubbles and browning) is very narrow. With that said bending the metal and removing dents a lot easier when the metal is softened with some heat.

I cut my fender lips almost all the way off and didn’t reinforced them. Just a light filing/sanding and some paint to seal them back up. No problems.

Cutting can introduce a lot of heat if time isn’t taken to do light cuts. I was careful and still burned some of the paint near where the disc was cutting. I laid wet towels on the fender and sprayed water on the cutting disc. A light buffing with some wax removed any burnt residue. Would have hated myself if I wasn’t aware how hot things were getting.
 

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You might be able to use a 2k spray clear like that sold by spray max and a spraycan reducer, like spraymax blender clear, spot blender, or SEM blenz in.
 

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See I had considered that. But let me explain why I’m against it.
if I cut it, the fender gets weaker and weaker. Also, if I cut it, and it still needs rolling, it’s gonna be harder to roll AND because you lost strength there, you might/probably will bow the fender out
If you cut and the tire still contacts, it’s really going to cut the tire up.

yes, I had my fenders before, but just barely. The tire got cut because (against my better judgment) my son talked me into doing a dead stop 2 step launch. Car squatted really hard. I heard it. The fender smashed down onto the tire, the rolled part got grabbed by the tire, pulled it and it scraped the tire. It’s should not do it now. I stood inside the trunk last night and bounced the car (violently lol) up and down while my son watched. He said it now tucks in the fenders and doesn’t touch. I’ll go for a drive in a little while, there’s a dip on the road coming to my house where it scraped yesterday. I also have drag bags I can use if it still contacts.
I agree with the front fenders, because they are just floppy sheet metal.

Rear quarters, i agree with ski. It's like 3 layers of steel spot welded together. Cut them suckers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Nice recovery! Looks good.
I’m sure with a little more wet/dry and a mild buff you won’t notice it.

The line between softening the paint and burning it (bubbles and browning) is very narrow. With that said bending the metal and removing dents a lot easier when the metal is softened with some heat.

I cut my fender lips almost all the way off and didn’t reinforced them. Just a light filing/sanding and some paint to seal them back up. No problems.

Cutting can introduce a lot of heat if time isn’t taken to do light cuts. I was careful and still burned some of the paint near where the disc was cutting. I laid wet towels on the fender and sprayed water on the cutting disc. A light buffing with some wax removed any burnt residue. Would have hated myself if I wasn’t aware how hot things were getting.
honestly if I ever cut it, it would be with an air body saw because the lower heat. Or my plasma cutter. I kid I kid lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Aight. Got an update. Probably mentioned that it still dragged earlier. Albeit barely, had my son ride in the back seat. So I broke out the air body saw and cut off and smoothed the part that I saw tire contact. Had 4 people put their weight in the trunk of the car (squatted like one of those goofy looking trucks kids do nowadays) and my son jumped up and down in the trunk where the latch locks onto. It would barely touch. Then I started looking at the angle of the tires. The offending side was toed in noticeably more in the front, kicking the back of the tire out. Not only did I see it because it was so obvious I had a second opinion (actually he noticed it before me lol). So I put a turn on the toe rod and it isn’t going to touch now, after the bouncy test, I’m pretty confident it won’t rub. I’ll have to get an alignment but that tire was actually worn oddly compared to the other side. Which raises a red flag.
 

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This pains me to see but I did worse than you. My passenger rear fender looks great but the driver came out like bacon. The previous owners attempted to roll them as well so my starting point was not zero. I am afraid to go out and get quotes. I know I can't do a good enough job myself.

As to the rolling vs cutting debate, I vote cutting on these cars in particular because the fender is three layers of sheet pinch welded together. Once it folds up, it is very thick and tends to want to bacon where the pinch welds are at. It is possible to do it right I think takes more time/patience/skill than a lot of fenders out there. That's just my take.

I hear the "structural integrity" argument a lot but how many confirmed cases of it actually being an issue are there?
 

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^^ You will never know the truth to that because not many people are willing to admit they screwed up in that magnitude, let alone post pics of it. They are also not willing to admit that they paid a "professional " to screw up the car.

I have been hardcore searching widened 18" wheels, fender rolling, fender cutting, wider rear tires, etc., for the last 2 months and let me tell you, times and opinions have definitely changed with this car. I give shit tons of credit to the first guys and gals on the forum to venture down the road of wheels and tires for the GTO, and making them fit. In all of my searching, I didn't see too many posts about actual fender rolling or cutting gone wrong. But it has happened. And I bet it was mostly inexperienced and/or unknowing people attempting the modification whether it was the car owner or the shop employee.

The other thing I can tell you is that this car is definitely not uniform with suspension, wheel and tire mods. That is clear with the mixed results of posts found through searching. All of this mixed emotion hasn't stopped me from widening a set of stock 18" wheels and eventually mounting some 285/35 Michelins. I am a little nervous, but enough info has been posted of the years that I can make it work without destroying my car in the process.

Didn't mean to turn this into a novel... just wanted to offer my point of view based on intense and much time spent reading lots of threads about wide tires on a GTO. @Kfxguy is the exception to the mistake because he owned it and had the knowledge and materials on hand to fix it and make it look like nothing ever happened.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
^^ You will never know the truth to that because not many people are willing to admit they screwed up in that magnitude, let alone post pics of it. They are also not willing to admit that they paid a "professional " to screw up the car.

I have been hardcore searching widened 18" wheels, fender rolling, fender cutting, wider rear tires, etc., for the last 2 months and let me tell you, times and opinions have definitely changed with this car. I give shit tons of credit to the first guys and gals on the forum to venture down the road of wheels and tires for the GTO, and making them fit. In all of my searching, I didn't see too many posts about actual fender rolling or cutting gone wrong. But it has happened. And I bet it was mostly inexperienced and/or unknowing people attempting the modification whether it was the car owner or the shop employee.

The other thing I can tell you is that this car is definitely not uniform with suspension, wheel and tire mods. That is clear with the mixed results of posts found through searching. All of this mixed emotion hasn't stopped me from widening a set of stock 18" wheels and eventually mounting some 285/35 Michelins. I am a little nervous, but enough info has been posted of the years that I can make it work without destroying my car in the process.

Didn't mean to turn this into a novel... just wanted to offer my point of view based on intense and much time spent reading lots of threads about wide tires on a GTO. @Kfxguy is the exception to the mistake because he owned it and had the knowledge and materials on hand to fix it and make it look like nothing ever happened.
Theres no shame in my game. I'm wrong, I'll admit. I mess up, I'll admit it. I'll even post my mistake so Someone doesn't do the same. So anyways, I'll give you (and anyone else reading) some info that I've learned.

2002 BMW z3 roadster. The lug pattern is the same. The offset is so close, it works. Thats what I have on my car now. You can find staggered setups for the BMW but not so much for the gto. 275's will fit with minimal fender rolling. EXCEPT the new nitto drag radial, 555r2...they arent like the old 555r's that used to run a little undersize..these things are oversize. So keep that in mind. MAYBE a regular 285 would fit on these wheels, but i'm not sure. Flow one race spec wheels on discount tire are a good option. They are super light, bout $200-$250 a wheel and are 18x8 front, 18x9 rear. They also make a 17x8.5 for the rear if you wanted to do drag radials in 17's.
Keep in mind the hubs are a different size so if you order wheels for a bmw, you'll need to ask for the hub centric rings for a GTO.

If you widen a set of factory 18's, widening to the inside, you have plenty of room for a 285.......
 

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I saw forgestar has f14s in 17s for bmw fitment. Offsets look correct as well. May be the road i go down in the future
 

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If you widen a set of factory 18's, widening to the inside, you have plenty of room for a 285.......
This makes me feel warm and tingly inside... going to get some powder coating estimates for my wheels this week. Not gonna rush at this point because our Spring weather in Missouri is coming to a halt shortly and they are talking 20s and 30° temps with snow in the mix for this coming weekend.
 

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This makes me feel warm and tingly inside... going to get some powder coating estimates for my wheels this week. Not gonna rush at this point because our Spring weather in Missouri is coming to a halt shortly and they are talking 20s and 30° temps with snow in the mix for this coming weekend.
im sure winter will settle in come feb like it did last year
 
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