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This has been a problem for my nearly 40k car (2006m) since I got it new 15 years ago. Every so often I have to get it towed and the cylinder replaced when the key locks up. Column and key gets worse every time. Bought the "Lock Cylinder Housing 92234035" recommended on here to replace myself (still looking for a little local help to avoid compounding the problem--none of the locksmiths I called had every worked on a GTO). Only thing I have seen on this site to try to stop this was to super glue some plastic on the groove to reduce the wear. Is there any thing else I can do to gain reliability.

Also have to put batteries in my key fobs, they are weak, but both still work even though the rubber button seals are long gone. Some good illustrations on this site to replace batteries. Just dont make CR2032s like they used to--pretty sure they will not make 20 years. First post--car is getting older and so am I, so now asking for advice.
 

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i've never had issues with the lock cylinders in either of my cars, but i also keep the fob/key seperate from my other keys and never have them on a key ring.
 

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i've never had issues with the lock cylinders in either of my cars, but i also keep the fob/key seperate from my other keys and never have them on a key ring.
So do I. (except I still have a LoJack attached to the key--did so after Z-28 got stolen and never recovered). With the key issue I am realizing the LoJack is redundant.
 

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I modified mine after the 3rd or 4th time mine went bad. No issues as of late. Ordered a new cylinder and learned how to take it apart and remove everything. Smoothed down the ramp and applied the grease. Dremeled the pin down into a round beveled edge. Always make sure I hear a click when I remove my key. I also removed the lockout pin as well. Oh and I also cut one of the spings down in there by just a few links so it wouldnt be so strong when it strikes the base.

For the longest time I just left my key in the ignition and never removed it. That also caused battery drain issues due to the car detecting the key in the ignition and would leave on the accessories for about an hour or so and then shut off.
 

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There were some good posts about modifying the lock cylinder. Did it about 12 years ago, hasn't been a problem since...
 

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This has been a problem for my nearly 40k car (2006m) since I got it new 15 years ago. Every so often I have to get it towed and the cylinder replaced when the key locks up. Column and key gets worse every time. Bought the "Lock Cylinder Housing 92234035" recommended on here to replace myself (still looking for a little local help to avoid compounding the problem--none of the locksmiths I called had every worked on a GTO). Only thing I have seen on this site to try to stop this was to super glue some plastic on the groove to reduce the wear. Is there any thing else I can do to gain reliability.

Also have to put batteries in my key fobs, they are weak, but both still work even though the rubber button seals are long gone. Some good illustrations on this site to replace batteries. Just dont make CR2032s like they used to--pretty sure they will not make 20 years. First post--car is getting older and so am I, so now asking for advice.
you mention the locksmith, is there something unique about changing this on a GTO? at nearly 40,000 miles, I have never had any indication of trouble yet it hangs over my head as something I need to do, but am so far unwilling to do. but changing the cylinder is not unknown to locksmiths right? I have wondered if just going to a locksmith might be a good idea? why is it not?
 

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For those of you who don't DD your GTO, you may never get this problem. Some who may not DD theirs may get this problem. I feel its just a luck of the draw. I was unlucky 3 or 4 times out of my 130k DD miles in 10 years. So finally chose to learn how to do it myself. It ain't cheap to have a locksmith and shop to tix it It would always cost me 3-600 hundo for the repair/replace.



=
 

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you mention the locksmith, is there something unique about changing this on a GTO? at nearly 40,000 miles, I have never had any indication of trouble yet it hangs over my head as something I need to do, but am so far unwilling to do. but changing the cylinder is not unknown to locksmiths right? I have wondered if just going to a locksmith might be a good idea? why is it not?
Most shops may contract out a locksmith or may have one in shop in case something goes awry in the repair/replacement process (tumbler pins fall out which they won't unless you remove the key with the cylinder removed from the tumbler, can't get the key to even turn, key is in bad shape etc). Most times I had this happen I could not get my key to turn and had to have my car towed to a shop to be fixed. My last time I had this happened, I managed to get my key to turn once, and I never removed the key until I was ready to fix/mod the issue.

It's an easy thing to remove with the videos and content available online, if your key has no issue turning in case you want to inspect the ramp (on the cylinder) and pin/spring that are the culprit in this case.
 

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My ignition lock started acting up at 60k. I just sprayed some dry lube (Graphite if I remember correctly) in to the key hole then sprayed some compressed air from a can right afterwards. Haven't had a problem since.
 

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Happened to the wife's 04 after we'd loaded it for a week's vacation Dana Point before 2009, as dealer was still open. So maybe 25K mi or less on it. No issues since, thankfully.
Is it Really important to lessen the weight on the key, to mitigate this problem?
 

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I took mine apart in 2008. Smoothed the lip on the ramp with a dremel and it’s been fine since.
There was a time I had to wait for the car to cool after sundown before I could get the key to turn. Lol
 
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