LS1GTO.com Forums banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
78 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have dealt with the ignition switch issues 3 times over the 10 years I have owned my GTO. Anyone know if it would be possible to just remove the pins from the tumbler and still use the key to turn the switch and start the car along with the key fob ball dent creating the current with the outer ring for the security system to allow the car to start? Would removing the pins cause any issues besides anyone being able to almost start the car with a flat head screw driver besides having the ohms resistance from the key fob? I want to remove the key so the battery doesn't die since acc. stays on for about an hour or so after I shut the car off since I don't remove the key. If I removed the key, I would not be able to turn the switch again and I would have to use my deadbow hammer trick to get the key to turn. Any thoughts? I am eventually going to get a push button start system in the future, but for now as a temporary fix, this were my thoughts on a potential solution.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
198 Posts
So, if I understand your initial situation currently - "Your key has to be in the on or off position all the time and it can still be used to start car. You just cannot remove the key". Is that correct?

Why can't you turn the AC off using the dash switches ?

Ever try the Search and then read? (No disrespect intended)

Ignition Issue read part about FLAT SCREWDRIVER

Although GM doesn't identify this problem as a technical bulletin, it identifies it as document ID# 2234030 and #09-02-35-003 dated 2-12-09. GM identifies in this document the procedures to unlock the ignition cylinder and replace it with part no. 92234035

92234035 – GTO Ignition Cylinder Housing

This one below has diagram for alternative starting


Some of early GTO owners and forum members fought and won this battle years ago. You sir did it 3 times in 10 years..If you read all of the links I have provided to you..Well it might take you 3 years to finish the reading. Then you'll realize the problems they encountered and the solution mod which takes 45 minutes to do!

I looked at enough of them to summarize it for you, sadly however I am not going to share it with you.

Why are you trying to reinvent the wheel?

Use the search function, before you Post or Make a Thread please
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
78 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Sorry i was not clear in my statement. I am able to remove the key, but once I do, I have an extremely hard time getting the key to turn again so I can start the car. Once I am able to get it to turn (after tapping it with a dead blow hammer while turning), as long as I leave my key in the ignition switch, I can keep starting my car as many times as I need to without issues. I want to remove the key so the car doesn't leave the accessories on for about an hour or so because it is detecting that the key is still in the ignition switch. I can remove it obviously, but I then deal with the ignition switch being seized up from the issues I have read online on various forums. Some people say just replace. Well I have done that and gone to a new style. The first 2 times it happened I changed to the newer GM style, but failing a 3rd time (this 3rd time failed 2 years ago and I have just left they key in there ever since). I am not going to buy another 3rd ignition switch if it will just potentially leave me with the issue again and especially if I am away from home. I really just want to dremel out the inside and get rid of the pins that drop into place once the key has been inserted and dremel down the ramp people describe as what is causing the issue( at least from what I have drawn on the forums online). I have not personally taken apart an ignition switch before, but I am willing to, as I have done everything else to take apart things on my interior along with building my own digital dash. Just not having any experience with ignition switches leads me to asking anyone, if this would work without compromising any of the functionality of the switch itself, if I was to just remove the pins and dremel down the ramp.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
78 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
I want to eventually go to keyless start with the RFID system I found online (That will require another work around for the key fob ball dent). For now I will just replace the outer cylinder or dremel down the one I have to get rid of the area where the pin gets stuck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
174 Posts
The pin is what holds the key in run, take it out you will have to hold the key there by hand. If the car is an M6 you are screwed. Though it is very possible to get a defective replacement cylinder it is highly unlikely you are getting them all, there is something else going on there, the key a likely suspect.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
78 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I figure once I have the whole thing apart, I am going to see if I can look exactly at what has been causing the issue. First two times, I have just had my local shop replace the switch (along with whatever else they found wrong with the tumbler perhaps) and it's been quite expensive each time. I'm far more inclined to handle things myself now, since the GTO is no longer my DD so I can tinker around with it, at the risk of potentially breaking something and having time to learn where I went wrong, unlike before. I will more than likely just buy the new casing part that is roughly 30-40 bucks online and hope that will fix my issue for good assuming I don't find some other clever solution. And yes the key has been an anvil, but it hasnt been on my keychain for 2 years now, it's been nice without it on there
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top