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Discussion Starter #1
and I think what its missing is an adaptor that will move the airfliter closer the the drivers side headlights. It need a 22.5* bend down from the MAF.


I'm going to try and figure something out over my weekend.



Just my opinion
 

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Becareful not to have it too oily. There is a post about the MAF sensor and GM service with the really oily filters. I think K&N even says the oil (which is red) just needs to be visible and to use as little as possible, and to just make it all red.
 

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I just installed mine also. I was a little more difficult than I thought it would be, but overall it went fine. I'm suprised at now much difference it seems to make. Especially when driving hard and letting up on the gas, it cackles just a little now.

A_Vandelay did you get the silicone piece that connects the tube to the throttle body? It was so flexible it was pretty easy to adjust the tube placement.
 

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A_Vandelay said:
Yes, I did get that piece. I guess I was just expecting that the tube would sit in there evenly but the way it turned out, it's a little askew. I starting thinking that mayne I should just connect the filter to the stock tube and leave it at that (it doesn't seem like it would make much of a difference to use the stock one vs the new one but I could be wrong). btw, how does your filter look? Mine really seems dry..
I just ran out and took a look at it. The filter does seem dry. All of the K&N replacement filters I have installed have been more oily to touch. But...I've never seen a filter come and not be pre-oiled.

With the bulletin that came out from GM I really don't want to add any oil.

Maybe someone from LS1 Speed could enlighten us as to if we need to oil them?
 

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I thought it was tough to get the filter on the MAF. The MAF coupler is rubber and the end of the air filter is rubber so it was tough. I ended up with the MAF flat on a table and just brought the filter straight down from the top; I had to press really hard on the filter top.

The hardest part was the temp sensor. I was afraid I would crush it with pliers so I pulled it out by hand. When I was putting it in the new tube I kept pushing the gromet out. I eventually got, but it took time. The rubber gromet is a good idea, much better than the factory tube setup.

I would like some kind of support for the filter or MAF. It seems kind of crammed in there and not really supported.

Overall I really like this mod. The new tube seems much larger and better designed than stock. LS1 Speed did a good job on this kit. At first I wasn't sure about the cackling, but after a little bit of driving I like it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I think what LS1 Speed did is a good design since the car is so new, but I think in the next few months better high flow inductions will come out.
 

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A_Vandelay said:
hmmm..It sounds like you have the coupler on the opposite side from where I have it. I used the coupler on the tube side of the MAF, not the filter side. I attached the rubber part of the filter directly on to the MAF and it went on very easy. From the instructions, that's how it looked like it was suppossed to be...
Turns out I didn't really read the instructions as much as look at the pictures and apparently from what you are saying I didn't do that very well. Since the MAF only goes on one way I left the coupler on the side it was originally on, which is the filter side. I thought it was kind of strange that the plastic tube hooked right up to the metal MAF. The fit was actually good though.

I'll have to take a look at it in the morning and switch things around. Thanks for pointing that out.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
It took me longer then 15-20 minutes too and I think it has to do with the instructions. If they were explained just a little bit easier.
 

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You start to get soot and oil all over the MAF's resistors as well as your TB. This can play havoc (On the MAF) with it's tuning and you will experience problems.

So apply filter oil conservatively. The filters all come pre-oiled from the get go so you shouldn't need to oil it until you clean it.
 

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Just finished installing my filter. I want to see the man that can install one in 15 -- 20 min. The bend that goes to the throtle body neeeds to be a little sharper in my opinion -- The 2 peices are just a little off from being square so the silicone sleve takes up the off-set. Not sure about how smooth the air flow will be passing through that transition. But I could tell a difference -- not just because of the sound bet a difference in power.
 

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1) There isn't a lot you can come up with due to limited space. One could come up with a better setup, if they're willing to have their radiator core support drilled/cut through. I doubt many here, myself included are up for that.

2) It's on par price wise with a simple lid setup for F-Body's

3) It's shown dyno results.

Like I said in point 1, there isn't a lot of room for creativity on this intake. Even your homemade setup was fairly similar in design.
 

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sounds like a good experiment on the dyno, test the filter on the stock tube and the whole cai setup and see if there is any difference.
 

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Look inside your stock intake tube, then look inside our tube. You will see why it makes more power than the stock piece with a cone filter on the end. Also, keep in mind, that the more you mod your car, the more the true 4" design will benefit you.

As far as price, look at LT1 induction systems $169.99-219.99, look at LS1 lids, 89.99-129.99, our price is on par, especially the $139.99 intro price.

Our design will also always be upgrdable.

Tom
 

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I also installed my intake on Sunday.

I had a heck of a time trying to get the temperature sensor into the new intake pipe without pushing out the grommet. I ended up having to "lube it" up a bit with a bit of spit to get it to go through.

Then getting the MAF onto the new intake tube was also a heck of a job. I had to very lightly oil the interface in order to get the MAF on the tube and into the coupler.

After that frustration, I was then dissapointed to learn that the MAF needed to be rotated away from the accessory belt, which was impossible to do without removing the MAF from the coupler then inserting it back in.

Pain in the tuckish since I had to do this twice before I was able to get it tucked in safely and had to repeat the very difficult MAF insertion into the coupler.

However, AFTER ALL OF THAT, the silicon hose was thankfully flexible enough to get the intake tube hooked up and positioned.

Looks like a good install after getting it all worked out.

phew.

Jim
 
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