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Discussion Starter #1
How much slip should there be before the axle locks and both wheels spin?
On two occasions I was able to spin only one tire and I thought that if there was enough difference between the right and left the axle should lock. I'm talking about enough to leave rubber on the road so one tire was spinning pretty good. Is this normal?
 

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The stock Holden diffs are pretty crap. They don't tend to last that long once you go to the drags a few times. Guys over here have found that their original diffs were crap and pretty loose from factory, but after having them replaced under warranty (for clunks, slippage, etc), the replacement item were nice and tight and lasted/performed well. Better to save a few dollars and buy a KAAZ centre. Kevlar clutches, good for drags and circuit racing.

Mick
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Then this is normal?
When I really get on it both wheels will spin but it isn't that hard to get just one to spin. I would expect more 'posi' than this. Has anyone else noticed this with thier car?
 

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I just noticed this last night, it seems to happen if I'm going around a corner and then step on it. Not sure how normal this is, I do know that if I'm going in a straight line both tires will spin/hop. The next question is how do you get your dealer to fix this, I don't think I want to go in and say "When I'm burning the sh1t out of my tires only one spins." Is there a better way to check if the limited slip is working correctly?
 

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I think the problem is definately getting worse. I'll have to have the dealer look at it, I'm getting to the point where only one wheel spins all the time, kinda takes the fun out of trying to race anyone when you can't launch at all. I thought I saw something about changing the diff fluid to make it stick better somewhere but I don't know where.
 

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Can't help ya, Sorry.
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cjlannoy,

Did you ever get the dif fixed? I'm kind of curious as I expect to be running a few 1/4's before the summer ends... Did the dealer cover it under warenty?
 

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yes, the dealer did replace the diff under waranty, now I'm leaving the tc on more and not goosing it in the corners as much, don't want to have to replace it again. Probably should look into getting a stronger diff some day if this one goes bad again.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I know its a hassle but as long as the warrenty covers the repair I plan on playing as much as I want. So far so good.
 

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QIKMIK said:
The stock Holden diffs are pretty crap. They don't tend to last that long once you go to the drags a few times. Guys over here have found that their original diffs were crap and pretty loose from factory, but after having them replaced under warranty (for clunks, slippage, etc), the replacement item were nice and tight and lasted/performed well. Better to save a few dollars and buy a KAAZ centre. Kevlar clutches, good for drags and circuit racing.

Mick
Wow now I am starting to think twice about going to the drag strip. A couple times on the strip and thats it I am gonna need a new rear diff? Is it that poorly made?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I'm guessing but the key is "replaced under warranty... [they] lasted". So, maybe the version we have is something better than early models?

Forever the optimist!
 

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The other key is to get your dealer to replace it under warranty, my dealer wasn't going to saying "it's supposed to slip when you turn." Luckily they changed their mind. I don't really want to chance them not fixing it next time.
 

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you can't really test an LSD, you can only diagnose by its operation. If you take the cover off and turn the wheels they are going to go in opposite directions if you stop one wheel fast you will see the springs engauge the LSD showing good mechanical operation.

If you take it to the strip you not going to ruin your diff, just the LSD possibly and when that wears out you just have an open diff.

Harrop engineering has an IRS diff that uses ford 9" internal parts and is easy swap minimal modifications needed.
it isn't cheap.
http://www.harrop.com.au/root_folder/miscellaneous_components/99-ahsg2525-00.html
 

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nikivee said:
I cannot imagine the LSD going out after a few runs. If that is the case it's a piece of crap then.
I don't think its that bad (knock on wood) I trashed the hell out my dads Commodore SS and that diff took everthing and worked like new after many burnouts. The Silverado 3/4 HD I traded for the GTO had a 14 bolt with a supurb Eaton G80 LSD and still it would lock up when it felt like it.

Without actually mechanically locking the spider gears really their is no perfict alternative, and with doing so you severly compromise everyday driving (tight corners specially). Need to look into KAAZ LSD i dunno if they use friction material or do away with the spider gears, if its anything like a powertrax locker its still a PITA for everyday driving.
 

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Knight Errant
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Rear Diff

I seem to remember reading here (or somewhere) that there was a break point in production when they went to a lighter or heavier rear center for our cars, and the problem was born or stopped. Apparently, the older or newer cars don't have this problem?
 

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Old Goat said:
I seem to remember reading here (or somewhere) that there was a break point in production when they went to a lighter or heavier rear center for our cars, and the problem was born or stopped. Apparently, the older or newer cars don't have this problem?
:confused: that post might or might not help the situation or hurt the situation that some of us might or might not be experiencing! :cool:
 

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Knight Errant
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Posi

cjlannoy said:
:confused: that post might or might not help the situation or hurt the situation that some of us might or might not be experiencing! :cool:
Yes and No.... :D

http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1694
Lot of good info to glean here. I have to start referencing my notes to threads to make this easier. I couldn't find this the first time I looked
Well, it is a Full Moon. :sneaky:
 
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