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May I quote you on that?
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have applied Frost King duct insulating tape to the Speed Inc tube, airbox, and air horn as you can see. IAT is now a couple of degrees above ambient at speed compared to 10 or so before. More importantly, it "pulls down" from a heat soaked condition much faster than previously. Heat soak is about 20 degrees less severe after sitting for 1/2 hour. City traffic is about 15-20 degrees cooler than before. This stuff is a closed cell urethane foam with heavy foil facing. It won't win any shows, but form follows function.
 

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Captain Thread Killer returns
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does lowes and home depot sell that?
 

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May I quote you on that?
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Discussion Starter #3
I got it at Home Despot. I think it was actually for wrapping pipes. It's 2" wide. It took 3 rolls @ $2.99 to do everything.
 

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Nice idea Mike. I think it doesnt look that bad. I may consider trying to use something like that on the heat shield wall of the aircharger. To really get some good results i would probably have to wrap the tube as well though (especially with the IAT in there).
 

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Enjoy the trolls
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I did the same thing to my stock intake tube. You can buy all kinds of foam insulating tape at Lowes or HD. I think mine actually looks better than the stock tube. I used grey foam tape towards the Tb and black foam tape towards the MAF. Now, as soon as I get home, I pop the hood open and touch the intake tube. Before , the stock accordion pipe was really HOT! Now, it is amazingly cooler. I don't know what else I could do to cool down the air leading to the TB. I have already done the Tb bypass mod, insulated the bottom airbox completely, insulated all possible holes leading to the airbox from the engine, performed the Monaro 2 hole CAI, and lastly, insulated the stock intake tube.
 

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May I quote you on that?
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Discussion Starter #6
DG, that pretty much does it. You're in a tougher climate than I but as long as IAT's are reasonably close to ambient, you're doing OK. I think the only remaining strategy would be a very well ventilated hood like the one Autosport uses on their race car. There is a similar thread developing in the Power Adder section. Oh, and I'm using DEI Radiator Relief in the coolant. Supposedly improves heat transfer, and is not corrosive like most of the others.
 

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dozlert
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Mike...and you're an engineer? Anyhow, You gotta do what works. I plan on trying the LPE CAI. If it doesn't work I may resort to some brainstorming with my buddies.
 

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May I quote you on that?
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Discussion Starter #8
dozlert said:
Mike...and you're an engineer?
No, but i DID stay at a Holiday Inn. :D
 

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dozlert
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Hehehe...you're funny! Do you think the "coated" headers will keep the hot air out, or escavate it quicker?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
There's been an ongoing controversy about Jet Hot ceramic and other coatings claiming to reduce heat. The best I can figure is that they modify emmisivity, which affects radiant heat only, similar to a highly polished surface radiating less heat than a "black body" at the same temperature. Mainly, they keep the headers looking pretty. But I have a hard time accepting that a few microns of a surface coating actually insulates in such a way that it would reduce heat transfer by convection. Headers have tons of surface area that act as excellent radiator/convectors. That's why I plan to wrap my headers with 1/8" fiberglass tape or use some of those overpriced header blankets. I used the wrapping tape / silica paint on my Probe with pretty good results.
 

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dozlert
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Frowm what I have read, the increased velocity of the exhaust will "get the hot air out faster" than with the stock manifold. The ceramic coating supposedly helps too. It seems like it works in my Tahoe, but there's lots of airspace in that bay.
 

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I like boobs.
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Only problem with header wraps is they tend to cause cracking and void most header warrenties which could be bad. A header "blanket" may or may not be a problem, i've never heard of any problems with those but I have never seen anyone try one before either.

I had a turbo manifold coated by JetHot and I can vouch for it being at least a bit cooler and it also cooled to the touch a lot faster than bare metal. How well it helps on tube style headers is another story however. Though it does make for a nice finish and helps prevent corrosion on non-stainless headers.
 

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May I quote you on that?
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Discussion Starter #13
I had a brief discussion about this with Stainless Works. I don't expect them to warranty the headers if I crack them. At the same time, I'm not running the car in an endurance race. That alloy they use is pretty tough stuff, so I'm willing to gamble. NASCAR guys used to burn up wrapped mild steel headers in one race, but that's about the most severe duty I can imagine. I might try the blanket but the prices are ridiculous for foil backed ceramic wool. Plus you still need something to keep from burning up the steering boot.
 

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Protecting the steering rack boot with the SW LTs is top on my list. I'll have to find something and hopefully somebody will do the research for me.

I can't think of anyone that header wraps anymore. Ceramic coating seems to be the standard.
 

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Wooohooo
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mistermike said:
There's been an ongoing controversy about Jet Hot ceramic and other coatings claiming to reduce heat. The best I can figure is that they modify emmisivity, which affects radiant heat only, similar to a highly polished surface radiating less heat than a "black body" at the same temperature. Mainly, they keep the headers looking pretty. But I have a hard time accepting that a few microns of a surface coating actually insulates in such a way that it would reduce heat transfer by convection. Headers have tons of surface area that act as excellent radiator/convectors. That's why I plan to wrap my headers with 1/8" fiberglass tape or use some of those overpriced header blankets. I used the wrapping tape / silica paint on my Probe with pretty good results.
Mike, you are very close with your statements. One thing though Id like to point out. Black bodies do not "radiat heat", they absorb it. Polished surfaces reflect heat. Aluminum and stainless ( cast iron is alot better) are great radiators, but ceramic is not. This is why they they coat headers and such with it as they tend to retain the heat rather then radiat it thus keeping the underhood temperatures lower.
By the way, do you happen to do infrared thermography?
 

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May I quote you on that?
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Discussion Starter #16
Baaa said:
Mike, you are very close with your statements. One thing though Id like to point out. Black bodies do not "radiat heat", they absorb it. Polished surfaces reflect heat. Aluminum and stainless ( cast iron is alot better) are great radiators, but ceramic is not. This is why they they coat headers and such with it as they tend to retain the heat rather then radiat it thus keeping the underhood temperatures lower.
By the way, do you happen to do infrared thermography?
True enough, but absorbtion/reflection and emissivity go hand in hand. The term "black body radiation" is used frequently in color temperature equations.
I've never done infrared imaging. I studied basic thermal properties of surfaces and materials when working with audio amplifier design. (much heat to get rid of) and learned a thing or two about color temperature in doing visible light photography. I never had the patience for infrared film. I'm just a science junkie, really.
 

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Wooohooo
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mistermike said:
True enough, but absorbtion/reflection and emissivity go hand in hand. The term "black body radiation" is used frequently in color temperature equations.
I've never done infrared imaging. I studied basic thermal properties of surfaces and materials when working with audio amplifier design. (much heat to get rid of) and learned a thing or two about color temperature in doing visible light photography. I never had the patience for infrared film. I'm just a science junkie, really.
Kewl, was just curious, Im an infrared thermographer by trade so I know a thing or two. Dont run into many people who have a clue what that is. Nice job. I plan on doing something similar to minein the furture as well. congrats
 

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Est. Apr 2004
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desertgoat said:
I did the same thing to my stock intake tube. You can buy all kinds of foam insulating tape at Lowes or HD. I think mine actually looks better than the stock tube. I used grey foam tape towards the Tb and black foam tape towards the MAF. Now, as soon as I get home, I pop the hood open and touch the intake tube. Before , the stock accordion pipe was really HOT! Now, it is amazingly cooler. I don't know what else I could do to cool down the air leading to the TB. I have already done the Tb bypass mod, insulated the bottom airbox completely, insulated all possible holes leading to the airbox from the engine, performed the Monaro 2 hole CAI, and lastly, insulated the stock intake tube.

What about running a little heat exchanger off your air conditioner condensor? You guys are hard core. :D
 

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It's amazing what a little coating can do to reduce heat. In this case, my engine doesn't see much difference, but I do.
 

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I see it now :thumbs:

If someone finds a black version of this stuff I'll be the second person to do this.
 
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