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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I thought I would post up a summary of installing a low mount heat exchanger to allow my Duspeed with my TVS 2300. I got part way through installing the Frozen Boost 101 before changing direction to the LFP.

Top: Magnuson - From Kit
Middle: Frozen Boost Type 101
Bottom: Lightening Force Performance Extreme Dual Pass 2003-04 SVT Ford Cobra/Mustang

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Comparison table
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  • For all out performance, the Frozen Boost core has lots more core volume, and probably more cooling capacity
  • The weight bothered me a little bit, but that weight could hold some cold in reserve
  • Loss of baffling and recirculation a concern, but could be recovered with more work if it was a problem
  • Reduce ground clearance was the deal breaker for me. Some paint was already scraped some of the bottom of my bumper (the wife?). If this had been the frozen boost I think it could get ugly with the heat exchanger smashing into the radiator and bending the crash bar
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Frozen Boost Install

1/4" bolt attaching the tab on the hx to the bottom flange of the crash bar. At least one of the tabs needs to drill directly through a pinch weld.
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Plumbing is easy
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Relocate/bend the lines for the power steering cooler up and zip tie to the a/c lines with split rubber hose added for protection. The bracket that originally held the power steering cooler can be bent rearward or removed completely.
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I believe others have mounted similar to this. I was thinking no bottom support would be needed, just build up a bumper with some tension against the edge of the frame.
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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Initial Attempt of LFP - There are two 6 mm studs on top of the heat exchanger. I had a 6 mm die put some threads on, If you do this don't expect a 1/4" to work as there's just not enough meat for a small aluminum thread. Slip the studs up through holes in the bottom of the crash bar. Use some grommets on both sides for vibration damping. Add a locknut through an access hole you will need to make in the front of the crash bar and it is supported fairly well..



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The plan was to use a couple tier wraps with some washers to make the bottom support pull the lower end of the hx rearward, which creates better clearance to the lower front grille. This is an approach used by some aftermarket cooler suppliers, and kits are available with special tie wraps and washer. I thought it was clever, but started reading some reviews and apparently the tie wraps tend to eat through the cooler cores over time.
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I believe this setup may be viable by just letting the HX hang by the studs without any further retention. When the front bumper is installed it will push the HX rearward to the required angle and it will be trapped with no-where to go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Final Install of LFP (i hope)

Made a couple brackets from 1/8 x 3/4 inch aluminum from the hardware store. Used some adhesive back weather strip material for vibration and add some forgiveness to my bracket forming tolerances.

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1/4" thread forming screws into the bottom of the crash bar. I used some grommets there as attempt for vibration isolation.
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Purchased a 3/4 hose from Amazon with 90 degree bend molded into the end. This allowed me to run the hose through the same opening I had made for the original Maggie HX.
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I did need to remove some steel on the crash bar (white cross hatching) for the 90 degree hose clearance
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If it was any bigger it wouldn't fit, but as-is it fully clears the factory baffle.
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The rear side of the bracket attaches to the vertical brackets that supports the power steering heat exchanger with 1/4" screws with nylock nuts . There may even be room back there to put a couple of fans for the HX like some of the Cobra people do.
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Nice job. I was just looking at mine tonight but definitely need the bumper off to figure anything out.

When you get the duspeed installed mind taking a pic? Curious how far it comes down, like if its above the power steering cooler line?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Final Touches

Some material needs to be removed from inside of the lower bumper grille area (I have the SAP version). I didn't find any other photos of this previously and it would have been nice to know what I was up against in advance.
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Another thing to note related to this install overall is the front grille does slope rearward towards the bottom, and that causes the entire heat exchange to follow along to some extent. It is fairly tight overall, but the width and height of the heat exchanger fit this SAP opening about perfectly in line with the vertical divider towards the side of the front grille.
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Side view - I may end up needing to trim just a bit more to keep the fit of the bumper from being too tight against the aftercooler, but I am fairly committed at this point.

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And painted it all black of course, but not shown in this photo. I'll post a final photo someday once I get the rest of my stuff put back together.
 

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that will look like sex behind an IBM SAP lower grille.

yes.

sorry, it's late i've had a little to drink so all i care about is appearance mods.
 

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Final Install of LPE (i hope)

Made a couple brackets from 1/8 x 3/4 inch aluminum from the hardware store. Used some adhesive back weather strip material for vibration and add some forgiveness to my bracket forming tolerances.

View attachment 509406
Self threading 1/4 screws into the bottom of the crash bar. Used some grommets there as attempt for isolation.
View attachment 509403
Purchased a 3/4 hose from Amazon with 90 degree bend molded into the end. This allowed me to run the hose through the same opening I had made for the original Maggie hx.
View attachment 509402

I did need to remove some steel on the crash bar (white cross hatching) for the 90 degree hose clearance
View attachment 509407

If it was any bigger it wouldn't fit, but as-is it fully clears the factory baffle.
View attachment 509404

The rear side of the bracket attaches to the vertical brackets that supports the power steering heat exchanger. 1/4" screws . There may even be room back there to put a couple of fans for the HX like some of the Cobra people do.
View attachment 509405
looks like the hx could have been mounted a little higher without the grommets on top (itd probably still need some weather stripping)? which would let you move it back further to the crash bar pinch weld?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
looks like the hx could have been mounted a little higher without the grommets on top (itd probably still need some weather stripping)? which would let you move it back further to the crash bar pinch weld?
I ended up removing the weather stripping near the pinch weld to allow it to go up a little higher and deeper into that corner. The top/bottom plates of the heat exchanger are not attached to the core along the full width and only attach at the tanks, so even though it's metallic there is some suspension/springiness built in as long as it's not clamped in too tight. So even those two stud only connect to the top plate and not to the core.
The space where the grommets is created because the bottom of the tank needs to be tilted rearward to reduce interference with the front grill which also slopes rearward. This gap is also made larger because the bottom of the crash bar slopes upward, probably due to some tooling die angle.
Here's that sketch again I sent yesterday with a couple more notes. Angle of the hx might be exaggerated a little bit, but the idea is there. Could certainly have the hx more vertical if you remove more material from the back of the front grill.
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Nice job. I was just looking at mine tonight but definitely need the bumper off to figure anything out.

When you get the duspeed installed mind taking a pic? Curious how far it comes down, like if its above the power steering cooler line?
Duspeed install is mostly finished, just need to get the maggie back on. Bottom of the Duspeed duct hangs down to the top of the A/C thingy. I honestly can't remember where the power steering cooler started out, but right now it's down low.
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Duspeed install is mostly finished, just need to get the maggie back on. Bottom of the Duspeed duct hangs down to the top of the A/C thingy. I honestly can't remember where the power steering cooler started out, but right now it's down low.
View attachment 509414
perfect picture. thanks. maybe ill pull off my bumper tonight and see what i can figure out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Would you expect this to perform better than a fenderwell intake and the standard tvs2300 exchanger?
Based on the core size comparison, the LFP is a higher capacity unit, but I think it will depend on the situation. If I am moving more than maybe 5 to 10 mph, I feel like the LFP will be the winner.

However when sitting at a stoplight or in traffic it’s a different game:
  • The Maggie HX mounting directly against the main cooler stack feels like a big advantage. The radiator fans are the main source of air flow and the wide surface area of the thin hx should have minimal air resistance and the heat exchanger will be fairly optimal for its size.
  • The LFP, has a thicker core, which will have more air resistance plus it’s mounted several inches away from the main cooler stack. Air from the fans will pull from the area of least resistance, which is the upper grilles and not much cross flow through the hx.
  • If I were to add some extra cooling fans to the back of the LFP, like the Ford crowd does, this would pull additional fresh air into the compartment. At first this sounds like an improvement, but only if I can prevent the heat rejected from the LFP from getting pulled into the Duspeed.
Other things to consider:
  • Need to make sure the main fans come on at low enough temps to make the system effective, otherwise this heat rejected from the LFP is feeding the Duspeed.
  • The air intake from the fender may be better for lower speed situations compared to the Duspeed since it is pulling from a different source and will not create any recirculation concerns. This would also leave room to have both the Maggie and the LFP coolers.
  • Baffling of air flow to minimize recirculation is very important to get the most out of any system.
 

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Let me preface this by saying i threaded my LFP with a M7x1.0. Hopefully i got enough meat through the stud. M6 was cutting a lot off plus it was giving me trouble staying straight.

Went to homedepot since it was late to see what i could find for mounting hardware there.

Actually found m7 nuts which surprised me. Thought id surely have to go to ace. So i got some locknuts and regular nuts. Plus 1 1/4 fender washers and same size neoprene washers to use as a small buffer.

Found this with holes (need to slot a little more) but the angle will keep it sturdy vs flat bar. And i can just drill a hole wherever i need and tap (or nutsert) the crash bar for a bolt.

Painted it with eastwood satin black radiator paint as well.
 

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Fuck the crashbar.

Messed with it for a hour trying to mount undeneath and it was a battle. I started with beating the lip up so it was flat with the crashbar so i could move it back as i wanted. Then found out the angle that tilts the bottom of the exchanger to the front. Then tried tapping the bar and my bolts pulled out.

Cutting it and mounting exactly how i wanted took way less time. Now i just need to weld some steel bar back across to brace it some more. If i ever had to do it again i would just start by cutting it.

Heat exchanger sits nicely in there now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Yep, that would have been a LOT faster!
 
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