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I'm having a couple weird issues with my Goat ('05 PBM A4, 82,000 miles) and was wondering if anybody had any advice.
Problem 1: A while back I spilled a drink in the console and ever since the T/C button has been semi-unresponsive. Sometimes I can get it to work especially when it's warm out.
Lately though, the T/C button doesn't work at all. Completely unresponsive. Holding it, pushing it over and over etc. Do I need to replace or clean the switch? If so how do I do that?
Problem 2: With the T/C on, the car has no power and falls on it's face. Under acceleration it will pull really hard for like half a second then it just hits a wall, then it pulls hard for a second again, then boom hits a wall, etc. Like the engine is having the fuel cut to it. Or sometimes it will just barely accelerate, like it's in limp mode or something. With the T/C off, the car runs it's butt off with no issues whatsoever. No check engine light. I thought it was the MAF so I replaced it and it didn't do anything. Any ideas on what it could be?
 

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Might be a wheel speed sensor. I think if you run dissimilar tire sizes front to back, it could cause issues.

Also, swapping out the switch isn't a bad idea for your sticky resinous residue issues, but you might just try taking the switch apart and cleaning it with qtips and some rubbing alcohol.
 

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Is the tune stock? Did you reflash it with a new tune recently? Also could be a torque management or traction control table with a smurfed up cell or value if it isn't.
 

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Is the tune stock? Did you reflash it with a new tune recently? Also could be a torque management or traction control table with a smurfed up cell or value if it isn't.
Totally stock tune, only thing done to the car is a Corsa Sport cat-back, R1 concept drilled/slotted rotors, and a Cold Air Inductions intake. It was doing all this before I did those three things.
 

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Might be a wheel speed sensor. I think if you run dissimilar tire sizes front to back, it could cause issues.

Also, swapping out the switch isn't a bad idea for your sticky resinous residue issues, but you might just try taking the switch apart and cleaning it with qtips and some rubbing alcohol.
Also, how do you take the switch out without breaking anything? lol I've never tried.
 

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You have to pull up the center console bezel. There is one screw underneath the storage compartment in the front, the the bezel snaps up. The TC buttom has tabs on the underside that you press in, iirc.

You may want to check the clearance between the stub reluctor and wheel speed sensors, as well.
 

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On the odd chance that it matters, the Traction Control will not engage (disengage? can't remember) if your MAF wiring connection is loose or unplugged. Again, just saying in case the drink isn't the real culprit.
 

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On the odd chance that it matters, the Traction Control will not engage (disengage? can't remember) if your MAF wiring connection is loose or unplugged. Again, just saying in case the drink isn't the real culprit.
Makes me wonder if any other sensor could be the culprit. Anything the ECM would use to calculate engine torque... hmmn.

Also odd you have no codes.
 

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On the odd chance that it matters, the Traction Control will not engage (disengage? can't remember) if your MAF wiring connection is loose or unplugged. Again, just saying in case the drink isn't the real culprit.
That's a good point. Now it won't turn off at all. The car seems is acting like it has a bad MAF with T/C on. I get into the throttle and it just hits a brick wall. But when I was able to get the T/C off in the past it ran it's ass off. Might be the harness? Very frustrating to say the least.
 

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You have to pull up the center console bezel. There is one screw underneath the storage compartment in the front, the the bezel snaps up. The TC buttom has tabs on the underside that you press in, iirc.

You may want to check the clearance between the stub reluctor and wheel speed sensors, as well.
Thanks I'll pull it up and clean it and see if it helps the engaging problem.
 

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Makes me wonder if any other sensor could be the culprit. Anything the ECM would use to calculate engine torque... hmmn.

Also odd you have no codes.
Yeah, I mean that's the crazy thing. I thought it was a fuel problem because I scanned it and it said cylinder bank 2 was lean, so I cleaned the fuel rails, then the code went away and the fuel air/mixture is good but still won't run right with T/C on. Has to be a sensor, but I just don't know what. MAP sensor perhaps? Already replaced the MAF.
 

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My goat always has traction control issues. Every time I hit the gas pedal the damn thing wants to spin all day.
 

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Since the issue began with the spill I'd go after the switch, might as well get a new one, ya gotta take the console apart anyway. Flaky component like that makes electronic crazy. The T/C can and will go as far as applying the brakes to save the car.
 

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Yeah, I mean that's the crazy thing. I thought it was a fuel problem because I scanned it and it said cylinder bank 2 was lean, so I cleaned the fuel rails, then the code went away and the fuel air/mixture is good but still won't run right with T/C on. Has to be a sensor, but I just don't know what. MAP sensor perhaps? Already replaced the MAF.
So, when it does this weird cut out, do you see "low traction" displayed on the gauge cluster? if not, it might not be a TC issue at all, but something else.

You do have to be careful with replacement MAF sensors, as well. They can throw fueling way off. Get an original equipment ACDelco MAF sensor, or a delphi. A bad MAF sensor can cause a weird cut-out issue.

as far as it possible being an issue with the traction control: are you the original owner? I am really wondering if someone did something to the tune which is throwing things off. as far as calculated engine torque, ECM uses cylinder airmass, which is largely determined by the MAF. MAP, IAT, ECT, and i assume throttle position could also play a role.

last thing i can think of is that your ABS module is taking a dump. do you have issues braking? abs light coming on?
 
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