LS1GTO Forums banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Pissin' in the wind.
Joined
·
951 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I am about to install my new Autometer Sport Comp II guages. What I need to know is when getting to that schrader valve on the Maggie fuel rail, do I need to take any precautions? Do I need to have EMS on standby? Seriously, I am not sure how much pressure will be on this and I don't want to lose an eye or worse. Also, I saw where someone had the SS braided line for their Maggie (ddawson?) from Autometer. Do you all think this is necessaryor does it just look good? Will what comes with the electric Autometer guage be enough for my install or do I need to get any fancy adapters? Any pointers? Thanks in advance.
 

·
.
Joined
·
1,695 Posts
if the car has been sitting for a while (few hours or so) there wont be alot of pressure (if any). just put a rag completely around the valve and push the center with something right through the rag.

The gauge should come with a sender that will thread right into that hole, just use a little teflon paste and you should be good to go.
 

·
Pissin' in the wind.
Joined
·
951 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the replies. Glad you guys were online!
 

·
May I quote you on that?
Joined
·
22,046 Posts
Doric said:
The Autometer gauge more than likely comes with the probe
Dammit, my Probe didn't come with any Autometer gauges.
 

·
Pissin' in the wind.
Joined
·
951 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Doric said:
Where else would we be? :gr_jest:
Good point. You guys don't have much of a life either obviously.:stickpoke ;)

Oh, and the small probes don't come with Autometer guages. :gr_jest: :p
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,487 Posts
SPEED Inc. to the left has a Schrader Fuel Rail T such that you may install your fuel gauge and still be able to have a Schrader valve.

Part Number CSP102071-1 made by Caspers Electronics.
 

·
Bye Bye Goat..It's Been Fun
Joined
·
3,934 Posts
Just unbolt the schrader valve from the rail, and screw the autometer sender right in. It is a direct fit.:gears:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
639 Posts
24v said:
Just unbolt the schrader valve from the rail, and screw the autometer sender right in. It is a direct fit.:gears:
I have a speed hut f/p gauge, and thats what I did. Fit right in there. No other fittings required
 

·
Bye Bye Goat..It's Been Fun
Joined
·
3,934 Posts
lanceygto said:
Unless you want to retain a Schrader valve in the system. Some people do.
I see no reason to do so. I would rather not put splitters on fuel lines. More connections=more chances of leaks. If you ever did have to have one, you could pull the sender, and thread the schraeder back in.
 

·
Bye Bye Goat..It's Been Fun
Joined
·
3,934 Posts
Yeah, I hear what you are saying. I just like the K.I.S.S. method when dealing with fuel systems.
 

·
Pissin' in the wind.
Joined
·
951 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
I got these things hooked up and I'm seeing 60-62 psi on the fuel so everything looks kosher. Boost spends alot of time around 15 in vacuum and I'm seeing like 4 lbs. at wot. Guess this is right for Reno. Thanks for the help with the questions. :) Didn't go the adapter route just tapped right into the fuel rail BTW.
 

·
Bye Bye Goat..It's Been Fun
Joined
·
3,934 Posts
Saluki1 said:
I got these things hooked up and I'm seeing 60-62 psi on the fuel so everything looks kosher. Boost spends alot of time around 15 in vacuum and I'm seeing like 4 lbs. at wot. Guess this is right for Reno. Thanks for the help with the questions. :) Didn't go the adapter route just tapped right into the fuel rail BTW.
Try monitoring the fuel pressure at WOT. It will more than likely drop a little.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top