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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a TVS2300. Last year I accidentally damaged the AIT wires when tightening the nearest bolt where the wires pass through the grommet and where the little hold down thing doubles as a AIT wire cutter. I managed to get up and running again without taking everything apart by drilling out the sleeve that goes through the grommet, then using some solder seal wire connectors from above then filling with gasket maker to seal things up. It works for the moment, but I don't trust it.

Does anyone have any easy improvements or suggestions to keep this from happening? Seems like the hold down is always wanting to turn when torque starts to build.

The other question I have is about the black sealant around the base of the heat exchanger. As you can see in the photo, it's starting to come loose in a few places. I am not sure if I should just cut the loose ends off, or just leave it alone, or redo it? It looks like this is sealing air, but I don't have any idea about if this seal is critical.

Anything else critical to seal up as I put the belly pan back on?

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You need the sealant to prevent the air from bypassing the intercooler core. It seals the core to the plate from my understanding.

I thought you had relocated your sensor to where the plug is? Some have done that with a grommet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You need the sealant to prevent the air from bypassing the intercooler core. It seals the core to the plate from my understanding.

I thought you had relocated your sensor to where the plug is? Some have done that with a grommet.
I didn't relocate, just the fast acting mod, maybe I should. This post says the RTV also holds it together during assembly Maggie spacers and mods I am thinking this doesn't need to be perfect.
 

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I know the pain as I did that same exact thing to mine last year. The bracket is leftover from the MP series that placed the IAT sensor at the back of the manifold. I decided to just pull out the aluminum slug that seats inside the grommet, and relocated the IAT sensor back there. IAT’s are slightly higher back there than before the brick, but some slight adjustments in the tune was all that was needed to compensate for it.
 
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I didn't relocate, just the fast acting mod, maybe I should. This post says the RTV also holds it together during assembly Maggie spacers and mods I am thinking this doesn't need to be perfect.
I actually tried searching for a spacer the other day. No luck though. Benefit to the core off the valley floor would be nice. Just have to deal with whatever height issues after.
I know the pain as I did that same exact thing to mine last year. The bracket is leftover from the MP series that placed the IAT sensor at the back of the manifold. I decided to just pull out the aluminum slug that seats inside the grommet, and relocated the IAT sensor back there. IAT’s are slightly higher back there than before the brick, but some slight adjustments in the tune was all that was needed to compensate for it.
Just any regular grommet?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Looks like the grommet that goes through the casting and the grommet that holds the sensor to the bracket are the same.
 

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Just any regular grommet?
The aluminum slug that the IAT wires go through in the manifold has a grommet around it. It’s the same grommet that secures the IAT sensor by itself in any CAI.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Warning, lots of pictures and small details coming

This is the slug, normally it has a wire coming through both of the 2 holes. You see where mine is drilled out to 5/16"
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On the bottom side it is covered up by a big blob of RTV by the red arrow. This could help some with sealing, but more likely it is to provide strain relief for the wire which would bend sharply coming out of the end of the slug. When you put this back together be careful not to let the wire get pinched by the blue arrow.
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Here was my first attempt at a fix:
  • I had already drilled out the slug to 5/6 ID.
  • Purchased a 5/16" OD x 1" long aluminum spacer at the local hardware store
  • Used a 5/16 die to cut threads on the OD of the tube
  • A regular 5/16 nut.
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Top and bottom side after assembly, used a drill bit and a small rat tail file to bell out the aluminum to make a strain relief that should be better than the original.
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As installed the nut prevents the clamp from rotating while protecting the wire. It squashes the grommet down quite a bit.
509358

Bottom side bell out shape fixes the strain relief and I would fill this up with RTV or similar for sealing.
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
But then as mentioned earlier in this string I learned that the sensor actually fits the grommet, so second option.

Since I have a new sensor with body coming soon, I can remove the cage and bell out the end of the sensor housing that came with the Maggie
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This takes care of the strain relief same as the previous idea. Will solder the wire onto the original terminals. If I really wanted to do this the best possible way, I would find some of the non-conductive potting epoxy stuff and fill it up until just below the base of the bell shape. If I can't find this, I will use some of the sensor safe gasket maker, which is non-conductive. I will also probably put some shrink tubing on this near the first shiny edge as an additional precaution.
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Now I can plug my harness in right here instead of having a pig tail to deal with. Connector needs to be positioned as shown for clearance for the lock. The clip goes on a bit harder than the other plan, just be sure to get it in place over the sensor housing before putting the belly pan back together.
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Nice job and thanks for the pictures.

Annoyed im going to have to pull apart the supercharger just to change out the iat when it (supercharger) arrives
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
i think your meaning ethanol? or im not catching the sarcasm

he meant E40 PCM
yeah, I might get to E85 but only half way there. no sarcasm, just lack of ... thanks for setting me straight
 
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