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Discussion Starter #1
So I’ve recently ran into the Coolant Temperature High or whatever warning light. Fans kick on, water pump appears to be working properly, and as best as I can tell the thermostat is doing it’s job as well. When I first noticed the problem I checked the coolant and it was low, almost a 1 1/2 gallons. I filled it up and burped it out and in the five minutes of doing so the temp rose to 215* according to the “secret menu” (outside temp was in the low 50’s). I let it sit over night and check the coolant the next day and it seemed a little low but only just needed a slight top off. Brought it to the shop to get pressure tested and on the 10 minute or so drive the temp went back up to 200*. The shop found a slight leak at the bottom of the radiator. I’m getting a new, stock radiator, but is it worth keeping the Mishimoto and trying to find some one to repair it? Is that something that can even be done? I am also putting in a new thermostat. Is there anything else I should be worried about here?
 

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Mishimoto’s come with a lifetime warranty assuming you’re the one that bought it.

Putting a stock replacement back in is ass backwards too.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The Mishimoto was already on the car when I bought it. With my options to get this fixed today, because I need my car back, a stock replacement is the only option I can afford.
 

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There are radiator repair shops around.
Mishi only counts if you can prove any of it.
Can get an identical one from eBay for half the price.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Mishimoto said that I should qualify for a discounted replacement. Once I get my car back and the radiator I’ll fill out required forms and compare the prices of replacing or fixing it with a local shop so it looks like the Mishimoto will be going back in one way or the other and worst case I’ll keep the stock replacement as a back up incase of an emergency. If my temp continues to be high after a coolant flush, new radiator, and new thermostat what else should I look at other than replacing the water pump?
 

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Air pockets. Avoid them by filling block through the top hose with car at an incline.
Exhaust gases in coolant/blown head gasket- would have been evident though if you’re topping off while running.
Longshot but timing issue if car is tuned then demodded when you bought it.
 

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For what you spend on a new factory POS you can get the missi repaired and still have 10 times the radiator. If you go back to OEM see if you can get a volume discount, you'll need it
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So the stock or POS radiator has been put in with new thermostat and coolant flushed to keep me mobile for the foreseeable future, hopefully. On the drive home the temp peaked at 209* but stayed pretty much at 199* for most of the drive. Should it cooler than that? What temp should I be expecting to see? I’d really hate to have to change the water pump or the fans. That’s not as high as it has gotten after my issues started a few days ago but still seems pretty high to me. Bringing the Mishimoto to be repaired this week when I have the time.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the help everyone. These forums have been great for me the past few weeks with answering questions while I was doing a suspension upgrade. Wouldn’t have been able to do that myself without all the help from here and I would have undertaken this radiator and cooling problem myself if I had the time and a proper way to catch and dispose of the coolant.
 

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Air pockets. Avoid them by filling block through the top hose with car at an incline.
Exhaust gases in coolant/blown head gasket- would have been evident though if you’re topping off while running.
Longshot but timing issue if car is tuned then demodded when you bought it.
imho with an 05/06 it's best to fill the system as full as you can get it from the radiator with the engine off, then top off the system with the engine running. Wait until it gets warm enough for the the thermostat to open, and then top off. in my 04 i just fill it from the surge tank, i've never had any problems with air pockets.

running too lean or rich will affect engine running temps, but the ECM runs it at stoich during everything but power enrich and initial warmup. not sure ign timing will affect much, most tuners only change values in the cells that correspond to WOT operation (higher air mass) and not cruise/light accel/idle. well, maybe idle if he once had a cam, but again, the ECM will still adjust timing at idle so it can, um, idle.

i would focus on water level and circulation, as well as prpoer airflow when it comes to cooling. it is likely just his radiator. cooling systems loose their ability to cool if they can't retain pressure. stuff starts turning to steam and it can't cool anything, and air pockets from a leaky system don't help either.
 

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So the stock or POS radiator has been put in with new thermostat and coolant flushed to keep me mobile for the foreseeable future, hopefully. On the drive home the temp peaked at 209* but stayed pretty much at 199* for most of the drive. Should it cooler than that? What temp should I be expecting to see? I’d really hate to have to change the water pump or the fans. That’s not as high as it has gotten after my issues started a few days ago but still seems pretty high to me. Bringing the Mishimoto to be repaired this week when I have the time.
If you don't want the missi I'd be happy to take it off your hands....
 
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