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Premium Member
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181 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
1) Replace a carrier bearing yourself for about $75
2) Buy a used shaft with a brand new bearing for $190 shipped
3) Buy a Performance Driveline shaft upgraded from guibos to ujoint and flange for$625
4) buy a DSS 2-piece for $950
5) buy a CF shaft for $1150

It's a street weekend car 470 wheel
 

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181 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I want to track it occasionally. I've never been to a track, been actually researching this today - see if tracks are open during the virus nonsense. Since I'm laid off and want to go to Brainerd, Road America or Iowa, or all of them
Why would I need to upgrade the shaft to track it? I ain't gonna twist it on street tires
 

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40,364 Posts
Carbon fiber is a very safe option. It will not cut through the sheet metal of the car if the shaft breaks, or pole vault the car. A steel or aluminum shaft will do that. Carbon fiber will just break apart and splinter. Carbon fiber also removes rotating mass from the drive-train as well as flexes more than an aluminum or steel shaft would, which is good for launching the car or reducing vibration. it also tends to have a higher critical speed than aluminum or steel driveshafts.

the only caveat with carbon fiber is durability. they don't like heat because of the bonding areas at the end of the shafts can fail if overheated, and they don't like damage. Damage to the carbon fiber itself can compromise the strength of the driveshaft. Fortunately, reputable companies engineer driveshafts that are pretty durable, and as well can withstand a decent amount of heat. I wrapped my exhaust and spaced it away from my driveshaft, personally, and this has mitigated the transfer to the driveshaft very well. You'll also need to make sure you have clearance BEFORE installation. rear seatbelt bolts, exhaust hangers, parking brake cables--all that jazz needs to be dealt with.
 

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1 of 40,757
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I was ready to replace the carrier bearing only to find out a ujoint was shot. Was determined to find a replacement that would fit and was even willing to modify the shaft to accept a closely sized ujoint.
There’s a DSS aluminum one piece under my car now.
 

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Is that FWD?
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1,090 Posts
Get 1 piece Carbon Fiber Shaft with Direct-Fit Rear Flange. I think it was one of the best upgrades on the GTO I did. I am at about 450rwhp, 3200 stall, heads/cam.

 

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Is that FWD?
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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Does anyone know how CF shaft's weight compares to DSS 2-piece?
How about stock?

How does DSS compares to G-force quality-wise
 

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721 Posts
I’d do the dss 2 piece. Loved it and it’s the as fragile. When one of these sonnex flanges break on my 1pc, I can prolly save the shaft when it rubs on the safety loop. Not so much with cf.
 

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Is that FWD?
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If I recall correctly.
Stock drive shaft is about 27 lbs
1 piece aluminum is about 21lbs
1 piece CF is about 19 lbs
2 piece aluminum from drive shaft shop is 32 lbs.
 

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I replaced with singled piece DSS and a safety loop welded in place
 

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2006GTO M6 dd-drag-roadcourse
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DSS 2 piece. One of the best purchases ive made for the goat.
 

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i tried replacing the carrier bearing myself and made sure i lined things up. it seemed worse after:unsure:

i bought the 1 piece CF shaft soon after. put the money/time youd put into replacing the guibos/carrier bearing into a new shaft.
 

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Does anyone know how CF shaft's weight compares to DSS 2-piece?
How about stock?

How does DSS compares to G-force quality-wise
my DSS CF shaft was about 12 lbs lighter than my stock driveshaft. as for comparison with an aluminum single piece or the DSS 2-peice, i could not say.
 

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i tried replacing the carrier bearing myself and made sure i lined things up. it seemed worse after:unsure:

i bought the 1 piece CF shaft soon after. put the money/time youd put into replacing the guibos/carrier bearing into a new shaft.
the carrier bearing replacement i did on my 04 was a cinch. your problem may have lied somewhere else.
 

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181 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
I think I'm going to get a CF shaft and try it out. if it works fine - great, otherwise I'll sell it and rebuild my stocker.
I am somewhat concerned with 1 piece fitment because the car was crashed before and angles and distances might be too off to take a one piece shaft...
I still haven't worked out rear cradle geometry, wheel gaps left and right are somewhat different. But it drives straight, so I don't care much (until I try to replace the 2-piece with a single piece)
 
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