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donde esta la biblioteca
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Discussion Starter #1
driving home today it and did a little swerving to see what the steering response was like, and it felt like the car was a boat rollin in the waves...almost got seasick lol

so, ive been doing some searching. I looked around and g-force has some good stuff. one thing I was looking at was changing the subframe bushings. how hard are those to swap out?? I was looking at the whiteline bushings and they were 169 but I saw the all aluminum ones and they were only like 100 more. thinking I might go with those. depending on the install.
im also going to do the subframe connectors eventually but since I don't "race" I don't know if that is completely necessary right now especially since I want to add in those g-force buckets for the rear end camber.
 

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I love mine. They are the easiest bushings to swap on the whole car. Go with the gforce alum ones! If you decide to go poly, i have a brand new set of pedders poly bushings id sell for super cheap (125 shipped to you).
 

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Also - the cradle boxes you are referring to are basically a necessity if you want to keep 0 camber and be slammed in the rear.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Also - the cradle boxes you are referring to are basically a necessity if you want to keep 0 camber and be slammed in the rear.
I didn't "slam it" but I did lower it like 3/4" and im stuck at -.9*. I was looking at the alignment kit from Kollar but it also says it is for stock height cars. don't really know what it'll do for me
 

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If you dont plan on going any lower, or going to the gforce coilovers, or minitubbing or something like that - then the whiteline adjustable outer bushings should get you at about 0 degrees. I would not do the cradle box mod unless you plan on goin pretty low.
 

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Replace all of the bushings (there are over 30) improved motor and tranny mounts also help a lot
 

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Your signature says you have Pedders coilovers. Your car is rolly polly with coilovers?

Poly rear subframe bushings are easy to do as long as you have a good ratchet strap and none of your bolts are rusted to hell. When I did mine on jack-stands, I had to use a ratchet strap to pull the rear subframe into place so the main bolt would thread properly.
 

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donde esta la biblioteca
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Discussion Starter #9
Your signature says you have Pedders coilovers. Your car is rolly polly with coilovers?

Poly rear subframe bushings are easy to do as long as you have a good ratchet strap and none of your bolts are rusted to hell. When I did mine on jack-stands, I had to use a ratchet strap to pull the rear subframe into place so the main bolt would thread properly.
YUP, thats exactly what I thought too. it might just be me but im not too impressed with the pedders. I had bc on my last gto and I don't remember it being like this

I have had the front end bushings replaced when I had the other work done to the car, as well as the upgraded the strut tower bar, and added the adjustable front sway bar. there is a chases shop down the street that im thinking of taking the car to and just having them do the look through of the suspension. have one of their pros take it for a ride.

this car needs love, im not gonna lie. it needs new rotors (front end shakes when stopping) and for some reason it feels like the steering wheel "floats" left to right when moderate breaking. I wouldn't be surprised if I need to do all the bushings again, since I know some of them are a pain to do, I wouldn't be surprised if the shop basically said screw these, lets just charge for the time. I used to do all the work myself so I knew everything had be changed but thats when I had a lot more time.

its a 2006 that had 5k on the clock when I bought it and now has roughly 26k, I mean I had to replace the slave about 2 months into owning it, due to the rubber parts going bad, im sure the same could be said for the suspension parts. it was garage kept but stored in Maryland. the undercarriage doesn't have salt damage so I think it was just taken out during the summer months, but still....
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Replace all of the bushings (there are over 30) improved motor and tranny mounts also help a lot
I have the shop manual for the car but I get lost when ordering the bushing because I keep forgetting what ones I ordered/ already replaced lol. I think I need to start over lol
 

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Why would you only do the front sway and not the rear? Both stock swaybars are fairly weak, the front being the worst offender, but everything in the car works in concert. You want the front and rear to be dialed in. Spring rate, damping settings, and swaybar rates need to be tuned to all work well.

Also, if your front radius rod castors are shot, braking and steering will be effected.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Why would you only do the front sway and not the rear? Both stock swaybars are fairly weak, the front being the worst offender, but everything in the car works in concert. You want the front and rear to be dialed in. Spring rate, damping settings, and swaybar rates need to be tuned to all work well.

Also, if your front radius rod castors are shot, braking and steering will be effected.
I was wanting to do the rear but with everything I read about needing a frame alignment tool and such I just never did it. I know its not the way to go but this is a daily driver (hopefully for not much longer since its now paid off) but thats how it went down. I understand it all works together.

the front radius rod rubbers have been replaced as well with white line adjustables. maybe they need to be retorqued. I did it to 100 but I had to do it while the car was lifted since the wrench wouldn't fit under the car if it was on the ground.

a side question, where did y'all put the jack stands when doing the subframe bushings. I usually put mine right where that bolt is. I usually use the spare tire jack because I like using the little pockets the jack fits in on the body but I put my stands right where that bolt is.

I really want to get those hydraulic quickjacks
 

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You don't need to disconnect the subframe to replace the rear sway bar.

AND, you can certainly measure and align the rear subframe without the special tool. All you need is a tape measure and some common sense.

I found that upgrading the rear sway bar did more to reduce body roll than upgrading the front. Of course like mentioned above, they really both need to be upgraded at the same time. You've already done the difficult one.

You DO need to torque the radius rod bolts with the car sitting with the wheels on the ground.

You should be able to support the car at the rocker pinch weld at the rear at the spot where the scissor jack would go if you had to change a flat.
 

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You don't need to disconnect the subframe to replace the rear sway bar.

AND, you can certainly measure and align the rear subframe without the special tool. All you need is a tape measure and some common sense.

I found that upgrading the rear sway bar did more to reduce body roll than upgrading the front. Of course like mentioned above, they really both need to be upgraded at the same time. You've already done the difficult one.

You DO need to torque the radius rod bolts with the car sitting with the wheels on the ground.

You should be able to support the car at the rocker pinch weld at the rear at the spot where the scissor jack would go if you had to change a flat.
getting the rear swaybar bushing bracket bolts to thread back in is a PITA.
 

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getting the rear swaybar bushing bracket bolts to thread back in is a PITA.
Kinda, but a lot easier with slightly longer bolts and if you open up the holes in the bushing brackets to be kind of a slot instead of just a round hole.
 

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Kinda, but a lot easier with slightly longer bolts and if you open up the holes in the bushing brackets to be kind of a slot instead of just a round hole.
I hated that.

TBH i drilled two access holes in the floor sheet metal. Makes it a lot easier, but i would hope most wouldn't be comforable doing that to their car.
 

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Rich and NotHJF, you're never allowed to rage-quit this board.

@OP, if you want to do subframe bushings, you can work on the rear swaybar all in the same rear-end job.

I'm of the opinion that the rear subframe alignment is a big deal with the shitty factory subframe bushings. When I installed my Whitelines, that subframe wasn't going anywhere (hence the ratchet strap). That may be old FPFQ-style thought (probably not a thing anymore) but I don't think it's worth the effort to worry about it with poly subframe bushings.

"old smiley face hidding behind wall emote"
 

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donde esta la biblioteca
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Discussion Starter #19
Thank you for the wealth of knowledge guys, I will def get the sway bar and bushings. I’m going to call g-force tomorrow and see if they recommend against using them on a daily. I had linkage from tick performance for my slave and it was aluminum, made it about a year or so and the linkage got ovaled out. After I got in touch with them they had switched it to steel, soo I’ll be interrested with what they say.
I think the rear seat bar is just doing be to something that I need to take my time with, kinda like a measure twice thing.

please keep posting any other info on the topic you all have to offer, the more the better. I’ll be sure to keep posted....weather you want it or not since y’all are trapped .
 
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