[Black Devil]

I have been asked by a couple of guys to post pics, and try to write up some install instructions. This is now my third GMM install. I did not trust my B&M, and sold it. This GMM is so much better in feel, and in quality. I do not know why anybody will buy another B&M. Just not worth it IMO. A much more positive feel, and just smooth. Below, I have written up my instructions, and posted pics. This istall is a little bit unusual. Being that I have headers, and had a drive on lift and all sorts of tool handy. This may not work for you.

Here are my instructions.

Tools needed:

phyllips head screw driver
13mm box end wrench
10mm box end wrench
T-25 torx bit screw driver
5mm, and 6mm allen head wrenches, or sockets
needle nose plyers
3/8 ratchets (swivel, and straight)
10" 3/8 drive extension
16mm socket

greese, RTV sealer, loc tight

Start by getting the car parked with the parking brake set, and wheels chocked. Place car in nuetral.

Get a pyllips head screw driver, and remove the one screw attatching the upper portion of the console.

Lift the consol lid carefully, and disconnect the window, and traction control switches.

after the lid is removed. Lift the leather shifter boot to reviel the two 10mm bolts that hold the shifter top on. Use a 10mm box end wrench to remove those bolts. Lift the shifter boot, and knob off.

After the upper portion of the shifter is removed. Get under the car, and losen the 4 13mm nuts the secure the seal to the floor.

Get back in the car. Use a set of needle nose plyers, and remove the two clips that secure wires to this seal. Now, remove the seal.

You will see a white dust cover. This cover will need to be removed. You will need to lower the trans to get to these screws, and the 4 bolts that hold the shifter to the trans. Use a jack(if on ramps), or an exhaust stand(if on a lift). Remove the 4 16mm bolts that hold the trans cross member to the floor.

Remove the bolts that attach the exhast to the head pipes. Lower the trans about 1.5 to 2 inches.

 

[Black Devil]

Use your T-25 torx screwdriver, and remove the 4 screws that secure the dust cover.

You will see what GM call a shifter. :drink:


Use the 6mm allen head socket, and the 10 inch extension with the 3/8 drive ratchet. Remove the rear 2 bolts that hold the shifter down.

Now, from under the car. Use the same 6mm allen head socket with the flex headed ratchet. This is still a little tight, but is better than doing this without dropping the trans.

Now, back in the car. Remove the shifter. Use a rag to keep any fluid from dripping on the interion of the car.

Clean anything that may be in or around the sealing surface of the trans.

Check out the differance between the GMM race, and the stock unit.

Stop playing with the new one, and install it!

Start by using a little RTV sealant. Just apply a little bit to make sure of a good seal. Also apply a little bit of greese to the ball end of the shifter.

 

[Black Devil]

Use a good loc tight, and use the allen head bolt that came with the shifter. Apply the lock tight to the bolts after the shifter has been set in place.

Start the 4 bolts in there threads. From the bottom of the car. Tighten the two front bolts, and then from in the car, tighten the two rear bolts. The passenger side rear bolt is the supplied GMM 5mm bolt. Tighten to factory specs.

Back under the car. Jack up the trans back into place. Use you 16mm socket, and rachet. Tighten the 4 bolts that hold the cross member to the floor. Tighten to factory specs. Or just use a 3/8 gun like I did. :fawkdance

Reinstall the exhaust.

 

[Black Devil]

Back in the car. Install the upper shifter handle. Use a 5mm allen head wrench to tighten the lower bolt, and a 13mm box end wrench to tighten the upper bolt. After that, tighten the supplied lock nuts on the other side with a 13mm box end wrench.

Next, use a feeler guage. Set your stops as GMM states in there directions.

The set nuts are tightened with a 13mm box end wrench.

Now reinstall the seal to the floor.

Back under the car. Tighten the 4 13mm nuts that secure the seal to the floor.

Reinstall the upper leather boot, and knob. On street versions, reuse the upper shaft. Held back in place with stock 10mm bolts. The race version just uses the knob.

Reinstall the upper consol lid, and make sure you get the clips set in all the way. Also, reinstall the switch connectors.

Now, reinstall the phillips head screw at the front of the console.

You are now done. Enjoy, and speed safely. :gears:


I did my best. Took me an hour to do the whole swap. This included taking pics, and realigning the exhaust. You may have differant results. Good luck.

 

[g-2]

Great write up man and excellent visual aides!!

Mods: This one should be a sticky!

 

[Black Devil]

Thanks. I hope so.

 

[simpleGTO]

Good job.

 

[Black Devil]

atriot:

 

[ddawson]

Well Done.

 

[speeddemon]

sticky!

 

[DaZedNcoNFused]

Thank you for the info and pics, Ill definitely be doing this next summer ASAP!!

 

[bnvus]

Sweet install.

 

[Greeny5005]

very nice write great photos, but mine was much easier i suggest you just take out the tranny there is less reaching to do. :drink:

 

[Fox Mulder]

Nice writeup, I'd like to add a couple of points-

This is the first time I've seen someone mention disconnecting the exhaust. Just removing the trans crossmember and letting the tranny drop down should provide sufficient clearance, that's all I had to do.
I see you used red Loctite, while it will certainly keep everything tight the blue is sufficient and allows for easier disassembly later on. I did mine with blue and after 3+ months and many thousands of miles it's still as tight as the day I put it on. The Loctite should be used on ALL the bolts, not just the base mounting ones. Stop bolts and lever bolts too.
You didn't mention checking the shifter to tunnel clearance on the right side at about 1-o'clock and bending the opening for clearance as needed to prevent contact on hard left turns. In the pic yours looks a bit tight.
To avoid rattling problems with the knob, it should be securely glued to the shaft with RTV silicone. Old residue should be cleaned off and the knob filled up with new silicone then pressed on. It's a good idea to do this even with the street version especially if your knob was already rattling with the stock shifter. I left mine alone when I initially installed the GMM but it still rattled and I went back later and took it apart to reglue the knob.
The RTV on the base is not really required, the rubber seal should be fine by itself as long as the mating surface on the trans is clean. The JHP/GMM instructions do not say anything about using additional sealant. I didn't use any and mine hasn't leaked. It would be interesting to know what JHP/GMM's official position is regarding this.

 

[GeeTeeOh!]

To the guys with GMM shifters, I need the white dust cover that you remove (the one with the torx screws).

Anyone willing to give up their covers?

Regards,

Rian
05M6

 

[mrgts1]

great write up!!!!!!!!! Would have like to see how to remove the knob from the stock stick though. And can someone make this a sticky please!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Paul

 

[Fox Mulder]

To get the knob off you pull straight and really hard. It may be easier to do this with the lever off the car and in a vise, or with an assistant to pull from the other side.
Do NOT twist the knob or you may break the locating tab inside.
When you are gluing the knob back on, be sure to check that the orientation is correct first.

 

[GEMELLI]

What a great write up and pictures! I wish I had this a few weeks ago. One thing I didn't do is put grease on the ball at the end of the shifter.
Does anyone think it's worth the time to take the shifter back off and do this?

Also, Fox Mulder, nice additions. I need to put some RTV silicone on the knob. Which one did you use, adhesive or just silicone?

 

[Black Devil]

I just used the greese to ease the movement before the trans oil got splashed onto it. Not nessisary. Nor is using the RTV on the base. I just used it to make sure that mine does not leak. just a little insurance.

As far as rattles. I do not have any. Yes, it looks tight, and these trans are known for ratteling with the race version. I have to say. i am lucky. No rattles. as far as mensioning the floor being too close. I did not know about this myself.

I disconnected the exhaust because of the headers that I have. Allowed more clearance, and less stress on the headers. I have tourqed the exhaust out of the way for other things. A few days later. I needed header gaskets. Just don't want to do another set till the heads and cam go in.

Blue loc tight is sufficiant. I used the red, because that is what I had.

As far as the shifter knob. I have not glued it back on, nor thought about doing it. Mine went back on the GMM shaft well, and does not move one bit. All of my other installs were done with GMM street vesions. This is my first race one. All of the others just bolted back on.

Removing the knob. Just pull it off. Mine has come off without problems. But, some may take more pressure. You can mount the handle upside down in a vise. Wrape a rag around the knob. Use a 3/4 open end wrench, and place it at the base of the knob. Tap on the wrench with a hammer. Be ready. It will come off without warning. This is how my B&M instructions said to do this. Works well.

 

[Striped04]

Great write up dude. There is another one floating around here but this works quite well and should serve the newbs well.