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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ok fellas, I’ve been jacking around long enough. I’ve always wanted to turbo a car and originally I was buying a 4th gen camaro and buying a turbo kit but long story short, I never found one and I blew my initial budget when I found this gto. I’m prematurely creating this thread for a few reasons. 1) it’s going to motivate me more. If I don’t feel like I have something pushing me, I may wander off course. I’m easily distracted lol. 2) I welcome any and all helpful info and advice. I’ll need some walking through on this I’m sure. 3) you don’t see many single turbo builds.

I received my head unit Saturday. It’s an on3 7875 turbo. I figured if I bought that first it’ll lock me in. I’ve been really dreaming of an ls3 swap because it’s no doubt easier but the end result of this will make the car faster and more driveable and worth more money if done right.

A little bit about me. I’m kind of a jack of all trades. I do pretty much all my own work. I port my heads, build engines, transmissions, and rear ends. I do a little bit of paint work. I have a powder coat setup. I have a mill/lathe and a Ac/dc tig welder. And just about everything in between. I’m not the best at welding but I can stick some metal together. I’ll likely be a better welder by the time I finish this project.


On to the car. My goals are to make about 600rwhp. Or somewhere in that area. I want the car relatively quiet when driving around. I don’t care how loud it is when I get on it. Drivability is of utmost importance and gas mileage is a factor too. Right now I have a 227/234 stage 2 btr cam in it. I’m gonna change the cam in probably two weeks. That will soak up some of my money until I sell this cam. I haven’t decided what can or who I’m going with yet but I was very happy with the last Texas speed cam I had so I’m thinking Texas speed.

The first things I need to do is delete the power steering cooler, move the battery to the back and move the coolant tank to the passenger side. I also need to relocate the computer. The turbo will be mounted on the driver side. Seems like too much crap in the way in the passenger side.

Next purchase besides the cam will be the fuel pump and fuel injectors. I haven’t bought either of those yet because I’m not sure which ones to get. If your familiar with sloppy mechanics I’ve been watching a lot of his videos and reading his info. He does this stuff very cheaply and he’s got some impressive stuff out there. He never mentions anything about needing injector data. That’s why I haven’t bought injectors yet because I thought the data was super important but it’s never mentioned and he uses decapped injectors and hp tuners, he has them flowed but that doesn’t give all the data. So is it not that important? What fuel pump should I go with? Initially I don’t want to run a return line. I’m looking for simple and I’m not worried about making 800+rwhp. For now anyways. Lol.


**********update update update********

Parts list. (This May save you some money)

On3 7578 journal bearing turbo
Ace race parts:
304 stainless
Schedule 10 2.5” straight pipe, 1ft
Sch10 1.5” long radius 90 degree elbows (5) (4 cylinders and one for the wastegate)
44mm eBay wastegate https://m.ebay.com/itm/44MM-Wastegate-4-PSI-Turbo-External-Mini-Dump-Valve-w-SS-Ring-Clamp-Black-II/172857593117?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Cheap eBay $23 blow off (not loud either) https://m.ebay.com/itm/UNIVERSAL-ADJUSTABLE-BILLET-ALUMINUM-TYPE-S-PSI-TURBO-BLOW-OFF-VALVE-BOV-BLACK/190668585296?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
(2) 3” 45 degree bends, (2) 90’s
(2) 2.5” sch10 45 degree bends, (1) 90
Box o stainless 2.25 exhaust pipe for x over
(1) 2.25 ace race parts bellows (the accordion looking one)
I bought an eBay oil kit but didn’t like the oil pressure line. I ordered a 24” line with a 90 on the turbo side. Tapped the plate for a fitting, the plate right above the oil filter. Used a -4an to 1/8 pipe fitting. Drilled and tapped it. Loctite it in. I did use the drain. I bought a 1/2” pipe to 5/8 hose 45 degree fitting.
Three stainless o2 bungs
One cheapie $20 boost/vacuum digital gauge (yea it’s accurate, and I have some ocean front property to sell you too lol)
2.25 vband flange and clamp in stainless
Cobalt ss 2 bar map sensor gm# 12580698
One 12” o2 extender wire for front driver side 02
60lb Siemens deka injectors (I have injector data if you need)
K&n RU2510 air filter
eBay turbo blanket
Aeromotive 11565 fuel pump. *note, it was not a direct plug in and the screen will not work. I cleaned and reused my screen and soldered and heat shrink the wires. BE CAREFUL of the oring on the pressure outlet of the pump!!!! Mine tore when someone else installed it for me. Left me stranded. I found some fat orings that fit and used two instead of one. Worked perfect.
eBay exhaust stud kit







Here’s a pic of my little budget turbo. I “splurged” and got the $400 unit instead of the $300 unit. Lol.



 

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Love me some sloppy mechanics, not just what Matt does, but what all the other guys that share their builds do. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Love me some sloppy mechanics, not just what Matt does, but what all the other guys that share their builds do. Good luck.
I was just listening to some of his videos on the way to work. About decapping injectors. I think I have a set of truck injectors. If not I could just send my gto ones out. I like not having to run adapters and spacers. And not spending $400+ lol.
 

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I do know if you're planning on running decapped, you want to send out 2 sets to get flow matched because chances are the flow on some will be terrible as well as the pattern (even though some people argue the pattern doesn't really matter).
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I do know if you're planning on running decapped, you want to send out 2 sets to get flow matched because chances are the flow on some will be terrible as well as the pattern (even though some people argue the pattern doesn't really matter).
I’m just exploring my options. I really don’t like the idea of it so I’ll probably buy injectors. I just don’t know which ones I need because of injector data.
 

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A single walbro 450 will support what you want power wise. I would just go with some siemens deka 60lb injectors. I made 750whp with 60's pretty much maxed out. They're pretty cheap but a very good and common injector. The battery relocation is really easy and straight forward. Just did mine this past winter.

Your build should be a fun one. Good luck with it!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
A single walbro 450 will support what you want power wise. I would just go with some siemens deka 60lb injectors. I made 750whp with 60's pretty much maxed out. They're pretty cheap but a very good and common injector. The battery relocation is really easy and straight forward. Just did mine this past winter.

Your build should be a fun one. Good luck with it!
The problem with that pump is I’m going to have to run a return line which I didn’t want to do at this time. I may have to scale back on my power goals. Honestly I’d be happy with about another 100rwhp. I ain’t trying to set the world on fire lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
My original plan was to run the largest pump I could get away with that I don’t need a return line for and then add a voltage booster. May be a hack way of doing it, but it’ll get me by for a while.
 

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Why would a walbro 450 require you to run a return style system? I guess I will suggest running the stock pump and a DW320. A friend of mine ran that on his APS Twin turbo LS3 without a return system and it worked fine. I'd suggest just doing it right the first time around and running a return style system.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Why would a walbro 450 require you to run a return style system? I guess I will suggest running the stock pump and a DW320. A friend of mine ran that on his APS Twin turbo LS3 without a return system and it worked fine. I'd suggest just doing it right the first time around and running a return style system.
I read where it will over run the regulator. (Walbro 450)
 

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Good luck on build! I'm about to remove my double pumper system if you're interested in a complete setup. Also have 2 sets of injectors up for grabs. Both sets have been ultrasonically cleaned and flow tested.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I’ve got a few small things on order. I went my my buddy’s house that builds ls cars and trucks and picked up a few parts I’ll need. He works out of his shop at home and builds some pretty fast stuff. He’s always got extra parts laying around and we always helping each other out do he hooked me up with a few truck manifolds and a front timing cover so I can install a drain. Nothing real interesting yet. This is the boring part, collecting parts and mapping stuff out.


 

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Call me crazy but part hunting is where all the fun is. I'm too much of a cheapo to buy retail so I'll buy used twice on Sunday if the price is right.
I'm doing h/c/I on a 454 right now and will be in about $800 from the Holley 750 to the hyd roller 502 cam.

I'll turbo a car one of these days
 

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Discussion Starter #15
So I have a little update. I started on the hardest part which is the manifold. I’m not sure if I’m sticking with this because I am picky and I don’t like problems. I had originally planned on building a tubular one but I’m thinking the cast one might be more durable because of the thickness. I dunno. I may reinforce it some more just in case. Here’s some pics. Truth be told, I’m a little embarrassed at my welding and about 99% of people who weld could probably do better, but hey.....something is better than nothing right? Lol





 

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I received my head unit Saturday. It’s an on3 7875 turbo. I figured if I bought that first it’ll lock me in. I’ve been really dreaming of an ls3 swap because it’s no doubt easier but the end result of this will make the car faster and more driveable and worth more money if done right.
Really Good choice, in the photos I attached that's the same turbo I have except mine is a tad more expensive. The "7875" compressor and turbine housing is going to be well suited to your needs. With my stalled auto and smaller, 9.9:1 compression 5.3 it starts making boost around 3K rpm. Since you have a slightly bigger motor and more compression it'll help spool the turbo a little faster making the "driveability" more to your liking.

My goals are to make about 600rwhp.

I want the car relatively quiet when driving around.

Right now I have a 227/234 stage 2 btr cam in it. I’m gonna change the cam in probably two weeks.
600rwhp with proper fueling and tuning is no issue I make that at 16lbs, unlocked converter, through a big 4l80. If you are an LS2 w/ M6 then you'd probably make that with 13lbs

My car is not quiet so I cant help you with that but I can tell you this. If you plan on staying with a dual exhaust get the biggest pipes you can 3" duals if possible. If you are keeping your A/C then the drivers side is the way to go. I have had no issues with my ECM or anything within' a few inches of the hoodstack melting or malfunctioning. Although everything that is close such as wires or plugs has 2 or more layers of heat wrap around it.

The first things I need to do is delete the power steering cooler, move the battery to the back and move the coolant tank to the passenger side.
Great idea, I bought an aftermarket one from Hayden Auto and did my own braided lines, saved a lot of space and cleaned up the complicated lines underneath. The coolant overflow was taken out and I know have a NOS energy drink can mounted behind the headlight for the coolant.

Next purchase besides the cam...

fuel pump and fuel injectors...

decapped injectors...

What fuel pump...
What cam are you going with? Since the cam isn't your main source of power now you can really scale back the aggressiveness of it. When I was N/A I had a 232/236 .570" cam with my LS2, now I have a 220/220 .563" 112+2 baby cam in my 5.3 and it ROCKS!!! You don't have to go with big lobes, in fact if I ever switch my cam out I'm stepping down to a 218/218 with more lift. If you want another cam but want to save a couple bucks sloppy stage 2 cam from jegs is always a lot cheaper than a custom grind.

I run a single DW300c in-tank pump and 60lb cts-v injectors. This was plenty to get my 5.3 to 600rwhp

If you want to go the decapped injector route just make sure you get a set of flow matched ones, get a hold of 2 sets to grind down and send to a guy named Eric Durr who flow tests de-capped injectors for Matt Happel. Along with this make sure you either get abase map for decapped injectors from Matt because they require a different style of tuning than just "bigger" injectors you buy.

 

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So I have a little update. I started on the hardest part which is the manifold. I’m not sure if I’m sticking with this because I am picky and I don’t like problems. I had originally planned on building a tubular one but I’m thinking the cast one might be more durable because of the thickness. I dunno. I may reinforce it some more just in case. Here’s some pics. Truth be told, I’m a little embarrassed at my welding and about 99% of people who weld could probably do better, but hey.....something is better than nothing right? Lol
Yes there are better welds. There are also a worse out there still holding on. One guy on here built a turbo setup with aluminized pipe and a flux core mig. He went 5 years before he had a leak.

With that being said I wouldn’t use those. Welding to cast is tricky. Also you can make manifolds out of sch 10 stainless elbows and pipe easily. Short dough too.
 

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So I have a little update. I started on the hardest part which is the manifold. I’m not sure if I’m sticking with this because I am picky and I don’t like problems. I had originally planned on building a tubular one but I’m thinking the cast one might be more durable because of the thickness. I dunno. I may reinforce it some more just in case. Here’s some pics. Truth be told, I’m a little embarrassed at my welding and about 99% of people who weld could probably do better, but hey.....something is better than nothing right? Lol
I'd say you did a good job of it. Did you preheat the manifolds?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I'd say you did a good job of it. Did you preheat the manifolds?
Yes and no. I welded about and inch. Moved. Welded some more. By the time I ran my beads the thing was very hot. If it don’t hold, I’ll build another one. But it’ll hold up. Everything is nice and thick. That pipe on there isn’t thin exhaust pipe. It’s 1/8 wall pipe.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Really Good choice, in the photos I attached that's the same turbo I have except mine is a tad more expensive. The "7875" compressor and turbine housing is going to be well suited to your needs. With my stalled auto and smaller, 9.9:1 compression 5.3 it starts making boost around 3K rpm. Since you have a slightly bigger motor and more compression it'll help spool the turbo a little faster making the "driveability" more to your liking.



600rwhp with proper fueling and tuning is no issue I make that at 16lbs, unlocked converter, through a big 4l80. If you are an LS2 w/ M6 then you'd probably make that with 13lbs

My car is not quiet so I cant help you with that but I can tell you this. If you plan on staying with a dual exhaust get the biggest pipes you can 3" duals if possible. If you are keeping your A/C then the drivers side is the way to go. I have had no issues with my ECM or anything within' a few inches of the hoodstack melting or malfunctioning. Although everything that is close such as wires or plugs has 2 or more layers of heat wrap around it.



Great idea, I bought an aftermarket one from Hayden Auto and did my own braided lines, saved a lot of space and cleaned up the complicated lines underneath. The coolant overflow was taken out and I know have a NOS energy drink can mounted behind the headlight for the coolant.



What cam are you going with? Since the cam isn't your main source of power now you can really scale back the aggressiveness of it. When I was N/A I had a 232/236 .570" cam with my LS2, now I have a 220/220 .563" 112+2 baby cam in my 5.3 and it ROCKS!!! You don't have to go with big lobes, in fact if I ever switch my cam out I'm stepping down to a 218/218 with more lift. If you want another cam but want to save a couple bucks sloppy stage 2 cam from jegs is always a lot cheaper than a custom grind.

I run a single DW300c in-tank pump and 60lb cts-v injectors. This was plenty to get my 5.3 to 600rwhp

If you want to go the decapped injector route just make sure you get a set of flow matched ones, get a hold of 2 sets to grind down and send to a guy named Eric Durr who flow tests de-capped injectors for Matt Happel. Along with this make sure you either get abase map for decapped injectors from Matt because they require a different style of tuning than just "bigger" injectors you buy.




I think I’m going with a 216/220 114 lsa sloppy stage one cam. I was planning on doing decapped injectors.
 
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