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So now what's the plan fix the 60 or jump to an 80?
 

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Discussion Starter #264
I just talked to a guy at transmission center. They have an induction hardened and shot peened shaft for $169 and a hardened 4l65 input shaft for $59 so I’m going to do those two while it’s apart. Probably a few other things and upgrade my down pipe and air intake setup. Then I’ll probably be picking up pieces of rear end parts off the track. Lmao.
 

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Discussion Starter #266
That blows. Good time tho.
Crap happens. I think I just got a weak shaft from the factory. There’s many other things that should have broke before this did. I hate that it happened, because I can no longer say I have stock shafts in my trans. I have been these units for far faster cars and one of them was just about as heavy, running mid 9’s and he never broke an output. Everything else except that shaft. Lol. Just my luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #268
Well I got it apart. It’s probably the worst failure I’ve seen and just from a damn output shaft. It took out:


Input drum
reaction shaft
output shaft
front planet
sungear
and because I can’t seperate the reaction shaft from the sungear, I can’t use the beast sunshell.

The clutches and 2-4 band still look new there wasn’t much slippage.








 

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There was a post on tech a while back, where a guy broke a shaft or something at the rear which lost all drive...and it too pretty much destroyed the transmission.

And people say auto's are more reliable than manual !! Seems they can be pretty fragile too, even more so with no load against them.
 

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Discussion Starter #270 (Edited)
There was a post on tech a while back, where a guy broke a shaft or something at the rear which lost all drive...and it too pretty much destroyed the transmission.

And people say auto's are more reliable than manual !! Seems they can be pretty fragile too, even more so with no load against them.
I would have broke a manual or the rear end if I had a manual.....a long time ago. This thing has some hard miles on it and wasn’t prepped for a turbo. It was a budget na build....wasn’t planning on a turbo so soon. It’s getting the works this go round tho. I’m trying out a new drum that has 9 full thickness steels and clutches on the 3-4.....and they are turbo 350 frictions which are a good bit wider. I should have no 3-4 slippage problems.

This is the drum I’m using. Look at the frictions, the bottom one is the one I’m going to be using and the top is a regular 3-4 friction.


 

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Discussion Starter #271
Some updates. I went ahead and bought new Borg Warner 4l65 sprags. One is supposed to be wider. I got my 4l65 hardened and shot peened input and output shafts. I also got the drum in yesterday. More on that in a minute.

I pulled the heads off least weekend. I didn’t like what I saw. The rear two cylinders are running a bit leaner. They were way too lean. I bought some ls9 head gaskets and bought a snap on digital tq wrench. I mention that because it made things much easier to deal with on torquing stuff. I’ll be paying for it for a long time (it was expensive lol) but hey, better to have the right tools.

My ideas on the lean condition is I’m sending the injectors to have them flowed. The higher flowing ones are going on the rear cylinders. I’m also considering putting one heat range colder plug in those two cylinders. I talked to a few experienced and knowledgeable people on this and they seemed intrigued and curious if it would help. In theory it should.

I may have mentioned it but while it’s apart I’m putting a tial wastegate in and a bigger downpipe. Might as well. I also have to revamp the location of my crossover v band. I’ve been having to fight leaks at that connection because I didn’t leave enough room to get the clamp on properly.

Here’s my head gasket leak. You can see a trace of gasket missing.





I forgot to mention. I went ahead and picked up a turbo cam. I wanted something a little more mild and suited to boost. A guy I met through ls1tech sold me a very very low mileage summit ghost cam. Has a very mild lope and will idle at a lower rpm. Plus should work better with boost. Hell, he made 450rwhp in a 4th gen f body with ported heads, fast intake and this cam. Stock ls1 bottom end. Ran ran 11.10 @ 122 all motor. It was a bit lighter than mine tho. Missing pretty much all the interior and having just a drivers seat. But still. Made excellent power.


 

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Discussion Starter #273
Never really been a fan of digital torque wrenches. I like then old fashioned click.

Cam should work fine, just get springs to suit obviously.
Using the same Springs I have. This new cam is supposed to pull to 7000 also.
 

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Discussion Starter #274 (Edited)
Little update. I had the car apart do it got all kinds of love while it was apart. So I mentioned the cam and ls9 head gaskets. I went ahead and changed the flex plate to a heavy duty one which weighs 1lb more. Hope that extra weight stabilizes the idle better. Trying to get it to idle as stable as stock with a touch of lope. Understand that I dropped almost 10lbs if rotating weight when I did the stall. While the flex plate was off I changed the rear gasket and rear main seal. It was leaking. I put my tial wastegate on too. I also hear barrier wrapped my charge pipes. I put led bulbs in my high beams (that’s would a tenth and a mph right there lol). I bell mouthed the turbo side of my inter cooler. It’s reallt thick with a sharp edge so bell mouthing it should smooth air flow out. I also finally added grills inside my sap grill trim. Whew. This was a lot of work I did to the car. I also clearances some areas of concern for things just getting too close. I rebuilt the crossover pipe. I had the v band flange too close to the block and it was impossible to get the clamp on correctly. I now have 9.5lbs of boost with less doing than before AND I added my nifty adjustable doodad to the wastegate so I can turn it up. Should give me another 2-3psi if I need it.

I just went drove it. So far no issues. I’m extremely surprised because anytime you do this amount of work, something happens. So my initial thoughts are.... it drives better, idles a little better, no fuel smell at idle (wife will appreciate that) it still pulls to 7000rpm and it “feels” like it still pulls just as hard, if not, a little better. I have not touched the tune. Oddly it drives almost perfect. Afr is a tad leaner (15.2) and I’m ok with that. My fuel consumption gauge says it’s using .25 gallons per hour less at idle. I’ll fine tune that shortly. Here’s and idle clip.


https://youtu.be/lur17L9d77o
 

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Little update. I had the car apart do it got all kinds of love while it was apart. So I mentioned the cam and ls9 head gaskets. I went ahead and changed the flex plate to a heavy duty one which weighs 1lb more. Hope that extra weight stabilizes the idle better. Trying to get it to idle as stable as stock with a touch of lope. Understand that I dropped almost 10lbs if rotating weight when I did the stall. While the flex plate was off I changed the rear gasket and rear main seal. It was leaking. I put my tial wastegate on too. I also hear barrier wrapped my charge pipes. I put led bulbs in my high beams (that’s would a tenth and a mph right there lol). I bell mouthed the turbo side of my inter cooler. It’s reallt thick with a sharp edge so bell mouthing it should smooth air flow out. I also finally added grills inside my sap grill trim. Whew. This was a lot of work I did to the car. I also clearances some areas of concern for things just getting too close. I rebuilt the crossover pipe. I had the v band flange too close to the block and it was impossible to get the clamp on correctly. I now have 9.5lbs of boost with less doing than before AND I added my nifty adjustable doodad to the wastegate so I can turn it up. Should give me another 2-3psi if I need it.

I just went drove it. So far no issues. I’m extremely surprised because anytime you do this amount of work, something happens. So my initial thoughts are.... it drives better, idles a little better, no fuel smell at idle (wife will appreciate that) it still pulls to 7000rpm and it “feels” like it still pulls just as hard, if not, a little better. I have not touched the tune. Oddly it drives almost perfect. Afr is a tad leaner (15.2) and I’m ok with that. My fuel consumption gauge says it’s using .25 gallons per hour less at idle. I’ll fine tune that shortly. Here’s and idle clip.


https://youtu.be/lur17L9d77o
You may want to consider an ATI damper if you don't already have one.
 

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Discussion Starter #277
Ok well. I was riding around and something just broke. Not sure what. Stuck on side the road as I type this. The only thing I can tell is I was on it and it went “bam” and then it didn’t want to pull anymore. It like something in the trans locked up. I thought I blew the motor but I looked at my logs. After and timing were good and the engine was still running for a few seconds after. No rattles. I have it gas and it’s like it was in a bind and didn’t want to go. Then the engine dies and it won’t turn over. It will make about half a revolution almost like the battery is dead. My guess is something in the trans let go and welded it’s self. I’ll undo the flywheel bolts when I get home and see if the engine will crank. Keep you guys posted.
 

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Discussion Starter #279
Broke it a loose with a breaker bar. Engine fired right up. Didn’t seem to be missing but there was a bunch of metal racket. Probably the input shaft or pump. Pulled both rear plus and they looked good so I don’t think the engine is damaged. In my log that I was running it showed my afr was good like around 11.2 so I don’t think it’s the engine. Stay tuned.
 

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Discussion Starter #280
Didn’t get time to fool with it this weekend. Maybe next. I did crank it and put it in gear. Nothing but a bunch of noise. Definitely trans. I was thinking could be the engine. I glad it isn’t. I’m not ready to put another engine in it.
 
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