nah it shouldnt. I "upgraded" the input shaft to the "tempered glass" version. So I bought a induction hardened 4l65 shaft. So evidently the hardening of it was done incorrectly or just made it too hard, offering no torsional flex. So it shattered. Had i left my stock shaft it, it definitely wouldnt have broke so quickly.Surely that shouldnt happen ?
Please do. Hope the motor is okay
Now that its running, you need to give me a ride in it.Ok. I’m back. Long story. I’ll try not to bore you. So. The convertor was destroyed also. Cost me almost $500 to fix that. I called patc and explained to them What happened. That their “stronger” input shaft shattered in less than 25 miles. They graciously gave me my $59 back. Lol. O well. Lesson learned.
While it was apart I went ahead and put both sonnax billet shafts in. Lowered the stall to 3200 from 3400. Changed all the bearings and bushings. Anything that was suspect got changed. I left out number 6 checkball so I’ll have a better over run apply. I put it back in. Trans works perfect. Very pleased. Shifts nice. But I have a rattling noise when I put it in reverse. Wtf. Fast forward a couple weeks. I found out that when the shaft broke it pushed everything forward so hard that it bent the flex plate towards the motor. So this weekend I trailered it to work and partially pulled the trans on a lift. Muuuuch easier than doing it on the ground. I put my stock flexplate back in for now. I had ordered another sfi unit but fed ex is taking two weeks to deliver it. They basically suck. I couldn’t wait any longer so I that’s why I put the stock one back in.
Now I’m having tuning issues. Lol. If it ain’t one this it’s a mother. (Autocorrect, meant to say another but hey, that’ll work too lol). So now that I have no exhaust leak, I’m easily getting 10-12lbs. For some reason as I go higher kpa, my kpa fueling is further and further off. Like my map sensor isn’t calibrated correctly or something. Let me just tell you, I seen 13:1 and 15:1 in my wideband several times and it made my butt pucker and my foot let off REAL quick. Luckily I found the issue. Now I’ve got to work that out now. But once I added more fuel, even at 10.8 to 1 afr, 10-12lbs.....pulls hard AF! No doubt I’ll get a 10 second slip now.
This made it much easier to work on. Before this I would have to unbolt the wastegate. Which is beneath the down pipe, so it was really fun to deal with. Insert sarcasm. So now all I do is undo the band clamp at the middle of the car.....Very nice. How did you execute the joint? Mine comes together further along where it gets round again. The end result is I have drop the manifold and downpipe in the car at the same time.
The problem with that pump is I’m going to have to run a return line which I didn’t want to do at this time. I may have to scale back on my power goals. Honestly I’d be happy with about another 100rwhp. I ain’t trying to set the world on fire lol.
I have an fittings but I decided against using them. Too many stories of them leaking. Even a guy I work with had issues with them. I had decided to keep it simple and just clamp hose directly on a fitting. More reliable in my opinion. May not be as easy but I prefer to have zero leaks. So you think copper would correct in aluminum? Even separated by jb weld?
Good luck!Update: decided to take the car to the drag strip to see where I’m at. I’m a little gunshy from the last outing earlier this year so I threw it on the trailer last night just in case something breaks. In the process I managed to tear up a front wheel pretty bad. I didn’t have any help guiding me, it was raining and I was rushing and I was tired so I grinded the face of the wheel on the rusted diamond plate fender. I was pissed. Anyways, wish me luck and I’m hoping for a 10.50-10.60 at 130+.