LS1GTO.com Forums banner

281 - 300 of 322 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
756 Posts
Time to upgrade to the (current 4l60 stage)+1 stage rebuild.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,826 Posts
Discussion Starter #286
Surely that shouldnt happen ?
nah it shouldnt. I "upgraded" the input shaft to the "tempered glass" version. So I bought a induction hardened 4l65 shaft. So evidently the hardening of it was done incorrectly or just made it too hard, offering no torsional flex. So it shattered. Had i left my stock shaft it, it definitely wouldnt have broke so quickly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,826 Posts
Discussion Starter #287
Time for a t56 :thumbs:

thats a couple steps backwards lol. i do that, i would trash the driveshaft and everything behind it.not to mention the main shaft in a t56 is known to be weak/expensive. the 4l60 stuff is much cheaper to fix.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,826 Posts
Discussion Starter #288
Please do. Hope the motor is okay


Ok. I’m back. Long story. I’ll try not to bore you. So. The convertor was destroyed also. Cost me almost $500 to fix that. I called patc and explained to them What happened. That their “stronger” input shaft shattered in less than 25 miles. They graciously gave me my $59 back. Lol. O well. Lesson learned.

While it was apart I went ahead and put both sonnax billet shafts in. Lowered the stall to 3200 from 3400. Changed all the bearings and bushings. Anything that was suspect got changed. I left out number 6 checkball so I’ll have a better over run apply. I put it back in. Trans works perfect. Very pleased. Shifts nice. But I have a rattling noise when I put it in reverse. Wtf. Fast forward a couple weeks. I found out that when the shaft broke it pushed everything forward so hard that it bent the flex plate towards the motor. So this weekend I trailered it to work and partially pulled the trans on a lift. Muuuuch easier than doing it on the ground. I put my stock flexplate back in for now. I had ordered another sfi unit but fed ex is taking two weeks to deliver it. They basically suck. I couldn’t wait any longer so I that’s why I put the stock one back in.

Now I’m having tuning issues. Lol. If it ain’t one this it’s a mother. (Autocorrect, meant to say another but hey, that’ll work too lol). So now that I have no exhaust leak, I’m easily getting 10-12lbs. For some reason as I go higher kpa, my kpa fueling is further and further off. Like my map sensor isn’t calibrated correctly or something. Let me just tell you, I seen 13:1 and 15:1 in my wideband several times and it made my butt pucker and my foot let off REAL quick. Luckily I found the issue. Now I’ve got to work that out now. But once I added more fuel, even at 10.8 to 1 afr, 10-12lbs.....pulls hard AF! No doubt I’ll get a 10 second slip now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
409 Posts
If in doubt get a mityvac or similar and check the map sensor. ( obviously ensuring you get the mityvac that can do pressure too, not just vac lol )

Most sensors should be linear throughout their range, although I've seen some that are for most of the range, but not their entirety.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Ok. I’m back. Long story. I’ll try not to bore you. So. The convertor was destroyed also. Cost me almost $500 to fix that. I called patc and explained to them What happened. That their “stronger” input shaft shattered in less than 25 miles. They graciously gave me my $59 back. Lol. O well. Lesson learned.

While it was apart I went ahead and put both sonnax billet shafts in. Lowered the stall to 3200 from 3400. Changed all the bearings and bushings. Anything that was suspect got changed. I left out number 6 checkball so I’ll have a better over run apply. I put it back in. Trans works perfect. Very pleased. Shifts nice. But I have a rattling noise when I put it in reverse. Wtf. Fast forward a couple weeks. I found out that when the shaft broke it pushed everything forward so hard that it bent the flex plate towards the motor. So this weekend I trailered it to work and partially pulled the trans on a lift. Muuuuch easier than doing it on the ground. I put my stock flexplate back in for now. I had ordered another sfi unit but fed ex is taking two weeks to deliver it. They basically suck. I couldn’t wait any longer so I that’s why I put the stock one back in.

Now I’m having tuning issues. Lol. If it ain’t one this it’s a mother. (Autocorrect, meant to say another but hey, that’ll work too lol). So now that I have no exhaust leak, I’m easily getting 10-12lbs. For some reason as I go higher kpa, my kpa fueling is further and further off. Like my map sensor isn’t calibrated correctly or something. Let me just tell you, I seen 13:1 and 15:1 in my wideband several times and it made my butt pucker and my foot let off REAL quick. Luckily I found the issue. Now I’ve got to work that out now. But once I added more fuel, even at 10.8 to 1 afr, 10-12lbs.....pulls hard AF! No doubt I’ll get a 10 second slip now.
Now that its running, you need to give me a ride in it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,826 Posts
Discussion Starter #292
I decided I might need more exhaust flow. The down pipe I had was crushed and hammered to fit in between the frame and the manifold. I bought 3.5” oval tubing. Should pick up a bit of flow. I drove it around the block and you can now hear the exhaust turbine. Never could before. I didn’t get on it because the steering bolt was grabbing the exhaust wrap. I have to address that. But in the mean time, here’s some pics. Came out pretty nice.












 

·
Chief CAD monkey
Joined
·
748 Posts
Very nice. How did you execute the joint? Mine comes together further along where it gets round again. The end result is I have drop the manifold and downpipe in the car at the same time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,826 Posts
Discussion Starter #295 (Edited)
Very nice. How did you execute the joint? Mine comes together further along where it gets round again. The end result is I have drop the manifold and downpipe in the car at the same time.
This made it much easier to work on. Before this I would have to unbolt the wastegate. Which is beneath the down pipe, so it was really fun to deal with. Insert sarcasm. So now all I do is undo the band clamp at the middle of the car.....

(remove pin in the pipe too, I made a pin that I drilled a hole where the pipes slip together, the pin go in the hole keeping the pipes from sliding apart, band clamp goes over pin to retain it)

Slide the rear dual pipe exhaust off that mid pipe. Then remove one 14mm bolt on the mid pipe bracket to the trans exhaust mount. Then the mid pipe slides off the down pipe. I had a piece of 3.5” swedged and then ovaled (spintech mufflers will do custom stuff like that) and it slides on the oval down pipe. Once you remove the mid pipe, the downpipe comes right out. Easy. I had to do this last night and it took me about 6-7 minutes to have it off.


On the construction, from turbo back here’s what I did:

90 degree 3” stainless. Then I bought a 3” to 3.5” stainless transition. I cut it super short. Then the 3.5” mates to the 3.5” round to oval transition pipe. Then I have 3.5” oval 45 degree bend from cx racing. I did have to cut it and put a partial pie cut in it to angle it one way. Then it connects to the oval to round Convertor. Then it has another short 3.5” to 3” transition to my 3” mid pipe. Whew. Yes it was a lot of work. But I won’t be starving for flow in that area any time soon. I gotta make another one now tho. I messed up and showed my buddy that has a gto and I’m building him a turbo kit too. He was oriogetting my original down pipe. Blah. More work now. Lol.


the mid pipe has a swedged section that slips over the oval part of the down pipe. so thats a slip fit (if it wasnt clear in the first paragrah lol) and it leaks badly right now. I'm working on sorting that out. The swedged part is just too big and its sucking air and my widband is after it, getting thrown way off. I bought a stainless band clamp from autozone (nickson part number 95312 3.5") and that made it much better but not perfect yet. i know what my next step is. ill have to flatten the swedged part against the pipe so its a tighter fit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,826 Posts
Discussion Starter #296
The problem with that pump is I’m going to have to run a return line which I didn’t want to do at this time. I may have to scale back on my power goals. Honestly I’d be happy with about another 100rwhp. I ain’t trying to set the world on fire lol.

LMAO! This feeling didnt last long......just reading back through this thread because i'm building another kit for someone......
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,826 Posts
Discussion Starter #297
I have an fittings but I decided against using them. Too many stories of them leaking. Even a guy I work with had issues with them. I had decided to keep it simple and just clamp hose directly on a fitting. More reliable in my opinion. May not be as easy but I prefer to have zero leaks. So you think copper would correct in aluminum? Even separated by jb weld?

Oddly, what I said in this post came true. Had to replace the an fitting twice due to leakage. I since changed to a push lock instead of a compression type cheesy an fitting. Just FYI
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,826 Posts
Discussion Starter #298
Update: decided to take the car to the drag strip to see where I’m at. I’m a little gunshy from the last outing earlier this year so I threw it on the trailer last night just in case something breaks. In the process I managed to tear up a front wheel pretty bad. I didn’t have any help guiding me, it was raining and I was rushing and I was tired so I grinded the face of the wheel on the rusted diamond plate fender. I was pissed. Anyways, wish me luck and I’m hoping for a 10.50-10.60 at 130+.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
253 Posts
Update: decided to take the car to the drag strip to see where I’m at. I’m a little gunshy from the last outing earlier this year so I threw it on the trailer last night just in case something breaks. In the process I managed to tear up a front wheel pretty bad. I didn’t have any help guiding me, it was raining and I was rushing and I was tired so I grinded the face of the wheel on the rusted diamond plate fender. I was pissed. Anyways, wish me luck and I’m hoping for a 10.50-10.60 at 130+.
Good luck!
How is the Yank SS3200 with the turbo? My GTO has one with mild cam.
 
281 - 300 of 322 Posts
Top