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Captain Thread Killer returns
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Ok I need some help please. I got the nology wires today and the breu silverstone plugs. I want to get them installed now, I can remove the old wires from the top where they connect but the part that connects to the spark plugs seems rather difficult to remove. Do I twist them or just pull harder or what? I am afraid of doing something wrong. Please help. Sorry for the dumb questions but I have never removed wires/plugs and installed new ones.
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Dbluegoat said:
Ok I need some help please. I got the nology wires today and the breu silverstone plugs. I want to get them installed now, I can remove the old wires from the top where they connect but the part that connects to the spark plugs seems rather difficult to remove. Do I twist them or just pull harder or what? I am afraid of doing something wrong. Please help. Sorry for the dumb questions but I have never removed wires/plugs and installed new ones.
:(
Grip the boot and some twist may well be in order. Just don't get impatient. They'll release.
 

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Captain Thread Killer returns
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Discussion Starter #3
ok thanks 1fastdog, I got one off, The engine is not completely cooled off either, I am impatient I guess, should I wait? The plugs in the back on the driver side look they will be the most difficult as far as having some clearance to work.
 

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-Tom Capozzi- Spitzer Pontiac GMC
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Dbluegoat said:
ok thanks 1fastdog, I got one off, The engine is not completely cooled off either, I am impatient I guess, should I wait? The plugs in the back on the driver side look they will be the most difficult as far as having some clearance to work.
You should definitely wait till the engines COMPLETELY cooled off like overnight.If you take the plugs out when the engine's warm you'll pull the threads out of the heads
 

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Captain Thread Killer returns
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Discussion Starter #5
as a side note I forgot to get a gap measuring tool, so I am just trusting these plugs were all gapped good? I guess I will know right away if there is a problem? They look smaller to the eye than the stock gap. THe directions on the wires says "When using HotWires on modified engines the spark plug gap should not exceed .9mm (0.0035 inch)
 

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Dbluegoat said:
as a side note I forgot to get a gap measuring tool, so I am just trusting these plugs were all gapped good? I guess I will know right away if there is a problem? They look smaller to the eye than the stock gap. THe directions on the wires says "When using HotWires on modified engines the spark plug gap should not exceed .9mm (0.0035 inch)
Dude, slow down. Do it when the engine is cold.
Also, why on earth would you want to put plugs in without checking the gap?
You can't tell by looking at it if its gapped to .0035, thats why they make gap gauges.

Slow down and do it right, take the time to do it right the first time.
 

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Captain Thread Killer returns
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Discussion Starter #7
flyinlow said:
Dude, slow down. Do it when the engine is cold.
Also, why on earth would you want to put plugs in without checking the gap?
You can't tell by looking at it if its gapped to .0035, thats why they make gap gauges.

Slow down and do it right, take the time to do it right the first time.

Well the engine is only midly warm now, I have been doing it slowly and taking a couple breaks, I have no way of getting a gap tool now, the goat is currently my only ride. I would hope since these are expensive plugs they have them gapped pretty dead on, once I am done I will ride up to wal-mart and get a gap tool, its only a couple miles away, I am sure the check engine light may come on if there is a problem so I should know right away. I was not planning to put them in without checking the gap but I totally forgot about the tool and was already started on the job.
 

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May I quote you on that?
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The GTO stock gap is 0.40, which at first blush seems a little on the smallish side. Most guys running TR55's set to 0.50. Ultra-high compression, nitrous, etc. usually likes a smaller gap. The Nology wires are a little different animal, though. The tried and true advice of Dr. Christopher Jacobs is to increase gap in 0.10 increments until you see a drop in power or mileage, depending on what you are optimizing, then close it down by 0.10. To gauge this right requires repeated dyno runs under controlled conditions, or measuring mileage over about 1000 miles or so. If you like to play with gaps a lot, there's no substitute for the Jacobs gapping pliers. They maintain precise alignment of the electrodes, which is critical to good performance. You've spent too much money to not finish the job to perfection.
 

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Captain Thread Killer returns
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Discussion Starter #9
mistermike said:
The GTO stock gap is 0.40, which at first blush seems a little on the smallish side. Most guys running TR55's set to 0.50. Ultra-high compression, nitrous, etc. usually likes a smaller gap. The Nology wires are a little different animal, though. The tried and true advice of Dr. Christopher Jacobs is to increase gap in 0.10 increments until you see a drop in power or mileage, depending on what you are optimizing, then close it down by 0.10. To gauge this right requires repeated dyno runs under controlled conditions, or measuring mileage over about 1000 miles or so. If you like to play with gaps a lot, there's no substitute for the Jacobs gapping pliers. They maintain precise alignment of the electrodes, which is critical to good performance. You've spent too much money to not finish the job to perfection.
Ok mistermike where can I get those pliers? Do you see any potential problems as of now (tonight) without measuring the gap and installing the rest? I have no problem spending the money to get them exactly perfect with a dyno.
 

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Kernal Sanders
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agreed man you bought the most expensive plugs and wires...slow your ass down and doit right! always measure all gaps to make sure they are to spec. dont do anything like this while the engine is hot you will burn yourself and fuck something up. Always do somthing right the 1st time.
 

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May I quote you on that?
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No, you won't do any damage if the gaps aren't perfect. Summit has the gapping tool HERE Just be gentle removing your new wires to re-gap the plugs. Pull from the boot, not the wire.You can even get a boot puller at most parts stores. Don't get dielectric grease on the conductors and antisieze on the business end of the plug if you choose to use those products. Don't drink and drive. And, above all, have fun!
 

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Captain Thread Killer returns
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Discussion Starter #12
ok thanks to everyone for the help, I am finished and it fired up like a gem, real smooth. The nology wires are about twice the length of the factory wires so there was some routing issues but everything is sitting good and not rubbing against any thing. The blue wires look good, I will get some pics tomorrow. The plugs on the driver side were a PIA. There is almost no clearance on that side. Well that was the first time I ever did that and I am proud that the car still starts! It does turnover really nice now. I wish I could have gotten it on the dyno before I put those in. I only used a small bit of anti-seize on the threads. Ok I am gonna go for a cold one.
 

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I've seen at least two different wire/plug combos that people have used in their GTOs:
  • Nology HotWires and Beru Silverstone Plugs
  • Taylor Thundervolts and NGK TR55 plugs
Would somebody care to compare these choices? I take it from the comments in this thread that the HotWires and Silverstone plugs are the most expensive of the choices.
 

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As a bonus question, please compare Taylor's:
  • Thundervolts
  • Spiro-Pro 8.0mm
  • 409 Race 10.4mm
 

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GTOholic
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Speaking on behalf of the Taylor 10.4mm race wires, I can say they look great, fit perfectly, and when combined with the NGK TR55 plugs, made a noticeable difference in performance. I ordered the plugs and wires from Speed Inc. The price was reasonable compared to the Nology wires. Without quantitative evidence (i.e. dyno numbers) to compare the different configurations, your choice will come down to appearance and cost.

So, with that said, I really like my Taylor 10.4mm wires.
 

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FLORIT said:
Speaking on behalf of the Taylor 10.4mm race wires, I can say they look great, fit perfectly, and when combined with the NGK TR55 plugs, made a noticeable difference in performance. I ordered the plugs and wires from Speed Inc. The price was reasonable compared to the Nology wires. Without quantitative evidence (i.e. dyno numbers) to compare the different configurations, your choice will come down to appearance and cost.

So, with that said, I really like my Taylor 10.4mm wires.

with the race wires do you notice any radio feedback ?
 

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Captain Thread Killer returns
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Discussion Starter #17
tbone3424 said:
with the race wires do you notice any radio feedback ?

I have not had any.
 

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tbone3424 said:
with the race wires do you notice any radio feedback ?
None that I've noticed.
 

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Old GTO Owner
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Unless you are running the juice, there is ZERO need to be changing plugs in a brand new car.
 
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