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CAUTION!!!!
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9,883 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
i always heard that its good for an engine to use regular oil for about 8K miles because a ful synthetic would be too much for a new engine, but the dealer said it would be ok. i went for the regular oil cause i only have 2400 miles on her, what are your opinions, ideas, experiences, links to threads that already covered this? any help would be great!
 

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13 year owner
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16,384 Posts
Use dino oil up to 5-6 thousand. Not eight thousand.

You can go sooner too if you want as many have. You aren't "hurting" anything. It's just that the LS1 doesn't fully loosen up until the 5-6k window.
 

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Member #804
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5,539 Posts
Put in synthetic when ever you wish. Lot of motors now are comming with synthetic from factory. The best synthetic oils available for round $5/quart are Mobil 1 and Castrol Syntec 0w-30 (if it says made in germany on the packaging) other wise its not a real synthetic. Auto zone sells the German Castrol Syntec 0w-30.
 

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CAUTION!!!!
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9,883 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
my dealer uses mobil 1, so thats what ill be using too. thanks guys for the info, ill throw it in, in my next change!
 

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Premium Member
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6,768 Posts
I had the dealer put in Mobil-1 at 800 miles (when the car was in the shop for 2 weeks). A 6-pack of it at Sam's Club is $22.99 - not bad. Dealer was going to charge me $18 for the AC Delco filter and labor to do the change, but I got this one for free due to the delay in getting my car fixed. $41 for a Mobil-1 change isn't bad...
 

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\m/ (>.<) \m/
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762 Posts
You want to start with dino oil so that the rings seat properly. Synthetic lubricates too well for the rings to seat so you end up with a little blowby and/or oil consumption in many cases.

After the first 50 miles (and with the proper technique), the rings should be properly seated and the rough edges of the bore hone will be worn down and you'll be properly broken in. Once you're done with that, go right ahead and put that synthetic in whenever you feel like it.
 

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Mod Hungry... Empty Wallet
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derf said:
After the first 50 miles (and with the proper technique), the rings should be properly seated and the rough edges of the bore hone will be worn down and you'll be properly broken in. Once you're done with that, go right ahead and put that synthetic in whenever you feel like it.
What do you consider the "proper technique"?
 

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Registered
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430 Posts
You should have no problem running it at the first oil change.
 

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Ludicrous Speed!
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Changed mine at 750 miles to Mobil 1. Been driving it like I stole it from day 1. No problems so far.
 

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Member #804
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5,539 Posts
Their has been some evidence from oil tests on LS1s that mobil 1 thins out to much. The Mobil 1 0w-40 turns into a 5w30 within few hundred miles.

I'm all about the using the best stuff for only few more bucks I put in AMSoil or Red Line Synthetic.
 

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Wooohooo
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2Cool said:
Changed mine at 750 miles to Mobil 1. Been driving it like I stole it from day 1. No problems so far.
ditto
 

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Wooohooo
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GMH GTO said:
Their has been some evidence from oil tests on LS1s that mobil 1 thins out to much. The Mobil 1 0w-40 turns into a 5w30 within few hundred miles.

My company does oil analysis and I have had my mobil 1 verfied for more then 10 years in several different cars. Never a problem one with viscosities changing years. Where did this "test" info come from?? My thoughts are if mobil 1 "thins out" too much, gm would not put it in their flagship performers such as the vettes. Just my 02 cents.
 

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Ludicrous Speed!
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1,041 Posts
Sorry, don't buy into that "common knowledge" oil comparison. Too much marketing hype and "factual studies" that actually trace back to competing oil companies.

Mobil 1 was specced as the correct oil to use on my Evo VIII, and is also specced for many high performance import cars. Here's a quote stolen from their site, to counter market speak with market speak: "Mobil 1® comes as standard equipment in some of the finest production vehicles you can buy. It's "factory fill" in Chevrolet Corvette, all Porsches, Mercedes-Benz AMG models, Dodge Viper, Ford Mustang Cobra R and all Aston Martin cars."

If its good enough for them, it'll do for me, thanks.
 

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Former GOATilicious SEG lover
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2,637 Posts
Fill her up with Mobil 1 as soon as you feel like it. The Corvette LS1 leaves the factory with Mobil 1 to begin with. The old addage about using dino oil for a certain amount of time is history.

Here's a response from Mobil themselves:

Thank you for contacting Mobil.

Today's engines are built with much tighter tolerances and much improved machining compared to the engines of 10 and 20 years ago. The old concept of "engine break-in" involved two primary elements:

-Removing any metal flashing (called swarf) or abrasive material
-Allowing valves and rings to "seat" properly.

Today's engines do not require these break-in periods. In fact, Mobil 1 has shown excellent control of oil consumption in the industry standard ASTM Sequence III E test, which uses a completely rebuilt engine for each new test run. This includes freshly honed cylinders, new pistons, and new rings compression and oil control). The engine is exposed to only the test oil after rebuild. The outstanding oil consumption control of Mobil 1 in this test demonstrates that the old "seating" issue is not of concern in well machined engines. And don't forget that Mobil 1 is used as initial fill on Corvette and Porsche engines.
 

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Former GOATilicious SEG lover
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2,637 Posts
GMH GTO said:
Their has been some evidence from oil tests on LS1s that mobil 1 thins out to much. The Mobil 1 0w-40 turns into a 5w30 within few hundred miles.
So the oil actually thickens at low temps (0w to 5w) but thins at higher/operating temps (40 to 30)? And what were the operating temps used for this test - indicitive of operating temps on the LS1 or standard engines?
 

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Member #804
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5,539 Posts
Look up Patman on LS1tech and he will fill you in on Mobil 1 5w30 being to thin for use in GEN III motors. And may I rephrase it was more a case of 0w40 M1 assuming the viscosity of a 5w30.
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=180466&highlight=mobil+0w40
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=177203&highlight=mobil+0w40
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=150435&highlight=mobil+0w40

heres a quote from patman
Truth be told, the newest formulations of many synthetics don't contain as much VI improvers even in 5w30 and 0w30 form, so they are actually now the better viscosities to run over 10w30, even in hot climates, since you'll have much faster oil flow on startup, which can significantly reduce engine wear.

Mobil 1 5w30 is a decent oil, and you can definitely get longer than 3000 miles out of it. How far you go is dependant on the type of driving you do. It's safe to say you can very easily go 6000 miles or one year, without a doubt. I do believe the better choice in oils for the LS1 are Redline 5w30, Amsoil 0w30 or 5w30, or the new German made Castrol Syntec 0w30 (which possibly would be available in Hawaii under it's original name Castrol Formula SLX) The benefits of these oils listed is that they are all formulated on the thicker end of the 30wt range, and offer better protection than Mobil 1 which is formulated on the thin end. Mobil 1 0w40 is the better choice if you absolutely must stick with M1, although it also tends to show higher iron, as it's antiwear package is not as strong as those other oils mentioned, since those oils mentioned don't follow the more strict API certification which limits the amount of ZDDP in the oil.
 

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13 year owner
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16,384 Posts
As long as you change it in regular intervals, it really doesn't matter. As long as it meets the API's standards, you can get pretty much anything as high as a Mobil1/Amsoil/Red Line to Wally world brand (although I personally wouldn't).

As to when to switch? To each their own. However, during initial break in, any engine builder will tell you to use a "dino" oil. After that initial break in, you can really switch it anytime you wish. I chose to do it the way I've posted about many times here before (search for it if you really want to see it).

Miscreant and others, Vette LS1's come from the factory with Mobil 1 as their engines are pre-run before installation. The F-Body's and GTO/Monaro's aren't.
 
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