Had that exact same issue when i did the tick brass bushing. It was directly related. I could loosen the shifter mount bolts and itd be fine. Like it was binding in the cup for whatever reason.
New Clutch, No Reverse
Howdy!
New clutch and shifter install and I cannot get into reverse with the car running.
Straight to the relevant details here:
LuK 04-905 Pilot Bearing
LuK 04-905 Flywheel
LuK 04-905 Clutch Disc
LuK 04-905 Pressure Plate
LuK LSC384 Slave Cylinder
Tick Speed Bleeder
Monster Braided Clutch Line
Tick Bronze Shifter Cup
Hinson Short Shifter
All new GM flywheel and pressure plate bolts, threadlocker, torqued to spec.
I previously installed 2 washers on the transmission detent plug as well as
1 washer on the transmission reverse light switch plug.
All electrical plus are plugged in.
Fresh 4.6 quarts of Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF in the transmission and ACDelco Dot 4 Brake and Clutch Fluid in the master cylinder. I bled the clutch with about 20 ounces of fluid to make sure there were not any air bubbles.
Still on the stock master cylinder.
Car drives in all forward gears just fine, however, it does roll forward ever so slightly in 1st with the clutch fully depressed. Can get the reverse lights to light up but seems not to get fully into reverse with the car running. If I put the car in reverse and then start the car, I can back up. So mechanically it is possible, but why can't I get into reverse while running?
My initial thoughts are:
Is my reverse lockout solenoid shot?
The transmission was out of the car for over a week, do I need to perform a reset and disconnect the battery to get the solenoid working properly?
Is the reverse lockout solenoid spring really that difficult to overcome that I need to put a softer spring in?
Help me please!
Jake
New clutch and shifter install and I cannot get into reverse with the car running.
Straight to the relevant details here:
LuK 04-905 Pilot Bearing
LuK 04-905 Flywheel
LuK 04-905 Clutch Disc
LuK 04-905 Pressure Plate
LuK LSC384 Slave Cylinder
Tick Speed Bleeder
Monster Braided Clutch Line
Tick Bronze Shifter Cup
Hinson Short Shifter
All new GM flywheel and pressure plate bolts, threadlocker, torqued to spec.
I previously installed 2 washers on the transmission detent plug as well as
1 washer on the transmission reverse light switch plug.
All electrical plus are plugged in.
Fresh 4.6 quarts of Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF in the transmission and ACDelco Dot 4 Brake and Clutch Fluid in the master cylinder. I bled the clutch with about 20 ounces of fluid to make sure there were not any air bubbles.
Still on the stock master cylinder.
Car drives in all forward gears just fine, however, it does roll forward ever so slightly in 1st with the clutch fully depressed. Can get the reverse lights to light up but seems not to get fully into reverse with the car running. If I put the car in reverse and then start the car, I can back up. So mechanically it is possible, but why can't I get into reverse while running?
My initial thoughts are:
Is my reverse lockout solenoid shot?
The transmission was out of the car for over a week, do I need to perform a reset and disconnect the battery to get the solenoid working properly?
Is the reverse lockout solenoid spring really that difficult to overcome that I need to put a softer spring in?
Help me please!
Jake
1 - 20 of 50 Posts
I did not add grease to the Tick cup as another member said the hole in the bottom of the cup would get transmission fluid in it. Makes sense to me. Maybe I need to drive it some more to get some fluid up there.Had that exact same issue when i did the tick brass bushing. It was directly related. I could loosen the shifter mount bolts and itd be fine. Like it was binding in the cup for whatever reason.
Interesting that loosening the bolts made reverse work. What do you think the logic is behind that?
It relieved the shifter ball up from where it was sitting in the cup some so it could actually move.I did not add grease to the Tick cup as another member said the hole in the bottom of the cup would get transmission fluid in it. Makes sense to me. Maybe I need to drive it some more to get some fluid up there.
Interesting that loosening the bolts made reverse work. What do you think the logic is behind that?
I left it loose a bit and eventually it wore in where i could snug the bolts down again. I wouldnt suggest that really though and maybe itll wear in shortly after just starting the car in reverse.
The tick shifter and bushing i just installed in our firebird does not have the same issue for some reason.
if it is rolling a little when in first with the clutch pressed, then it isn't fully releasing. I would suspect either air still in the system or the Luk throwout and slave don't match the factory specs
I missed this and would agree.if it is rolling a little when in first with the clutch pressed, then it isn't fully releasing. I would suspect either air still in the system or the Luk throwout and slave don't match the factory specs
I think the issue with reverse still is because of the cup though.
The LuK LSC384 is specced for the GTO, unless it is just out of tolerance. So more than likely air in the system? By now I’ve bled 32 ounces through it with the speed bleeder. Maybe the air is just trapped and needs to be vacced out?if it is rolling a little when in first with the clutch pressed, then it isn't fully releasing. I would suspect either air still in the system or the Luk throwout and slave don't match the factory specs
You didn’t miss it, I added it to the original post after further testing.I missed this and would agree.
I think the issue with reverse still is because of the cup though.
Do you think I’m maybe not getting enough hydraulic pressure from the stock MC to fully disengage the clutch?
Did you measure for shims?The LuK LSC384 is specced for the GTO, unless it is just out of tolerance. So more than likely air in the system? By now I’ve bled 32 ounces through it with the speed bleeder. Maybe the air is just trapped and needs to be vacced out?
You didn’t miss it, I added it to the original post after further testing.
Do you think I’m maybe not getting enough hydraulic pressure from the stock MC to fully disengage the clutch?
I didn’t, this clutch and slave was not supposed to need any.Did you measure for shims?
there's not a ton of volume in the system. if you're bleeding it properly, doesn't take long at all to get the air out.
yep.if it is rolling a little when in first with the clutch pressed, then it isn't fully releasing. I would suspect either air still in the system or the Luk throwout and slave don't match the factory specs
a few more things can cause this as well.
the master cylinder flows fluid. if slave and master are good, then you have enough volume to disengage the clutch.Do you think I’m maybe not getting enough hydraulic pressure from the stock MC to fully disengage the clutch?
this.Did you measure for shims?
possible there were shims already and maybe they are still stuck to the back of the old slave?
besides, you should always measure. just in case.
I'm giving it about 3 pumps and then filling the master as to not let the master get too low for air to get pumped in.there's not a ton of volume in the system. if you're bleeding it properly, doesn't take long at all to get the air out.
If the master is failing, could what I am describing be a symptom?yep.
a few more things can cause this as well.
the master cylinder flows fluid. if slave and master are good, then you have enough volume to disengage the clutch.
this.
possible there were shims already and maybe they are still stuck to the back of the old slave?
besides, you should always measure. just in case.
I tossed the slave and didn't specifically look for anything on the back. Shoot. Would the stock slave have been shimmed from the factory?
Suck me sideways.
I bought a power bleeder for this job and it is the best way I've ever bled the system.
Congratulations on 6k posts!I bought a power bleeder for this job and it is the best way I've ever bled the system.
Do you think there could still be air in the system after flowing 32 ounces through it with a speed bleeder?
fwiw, i think some factory cars came with a shim.I'm giving it about 3 pumps and then filling the master as to not let the master get too low for air to get pumped in.
If the master is failing, could what I am describing be a symptom?
I tossed the slave and didn't specifically look for anything on the back. Shoot. Would the stock slave have been shimmed from the factory?
Suck me sideways.
and i doubt your master is failing.
can you elaborate?I'm giving it about 3 pumps and then filling the master as to not let the master get too low for air to get pumped in.
i sit under the car with a wrench on the bleeder nut. hold it closed. tell buddy to press down on the clutch pedal and hold. open for an instant, than close. tell him/her to release. repeat. every so often top off the reservoir.
after a short time the system is bled.
Yes, there could still be air, and the power bleeder will find it.Congratulations on 6k posts!
Do you think there could still be air in the system after flowing 32 ounces through it with a speed bleeder?
I have never trusted speed bleeders. My first recommendation would be to get a Motive power bleeder so that you can bleed the system yourself. My next suggestion would be to have a friend pump the pedal and hold so you can crack the bleeder open.
I'm in the camp that it probably needs a shim behind the slave cylinder. Regardless of what you are installing, you should ALWAYS measure the offset when installing a new slave to determine if you need a shim or not. Every transmission, every clutch and every slave is different. I put the exact same parts in both of my GTOs when I did the clutch in each and the 04 needed a big shim and the 06 needed no shim. Neither had shims from the factory.
Interesting. Well shoot I didn't do enough research.fwiw, i think some factory cars came with a shim.
and i doubt your master is failing.
The Tick speed bleeder has a check valve so no need to loosen and tighten every pump. I pump the pedal a few times with the bleeder shooting into an empty bottle. Then fill the reservoir before it gets too low.can you elaborate?
i sit under the car with a wrench on the bleeder nut. hold it closed. tell buddy to press down on the clutch pedal and hold. open for an instant, than close. tell him/her to release. repeat. every so often top off the reservoir.
after a short time the system is bled.
I will try a power bleeder first before pulling the transmission.Yes, there could still be air, and the power bleeder will find it.
I have never trusted speed bleeders. My first recommendation would be to get a Motive power bleeder so that you can bleed the system yourself. My next suggestion would be to have a friend pump the pedal and hold so you can crack the bleeder open.
Damn, I should not have assumed. I knew it was something that was possibly needed for aftermarket clutches, but not LuK LS7s.I'm in the camp that it probably needs a shim behind the slave cylinder. Regardless of what you are installing, you should ALWAYS measure the offset when installing a new slave to determine if you need a shim or not. Every transmission and every slave is different. I put the exact same parts in both of my GTOs when I did the clutch in each and the 04 needed a big shim and the 06 needed no shim. Neither had shims from the factory.
I am kind of having the same issue, I already had the tick shifter w the brass cup but after my monster clutch it was more difficult than I remembered to get into reverse.
It goes in but it just more difficult.
It goes in but it just more difficult.
1 - 20 of 50 Posts
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