When I installed my bronze cup and hinson shifter about a month ago. I made sure I lubed the cup with transmission fluid and also the stem of the new shifter where it goes into the cup. I recall it being difficult to get into reverse, then I just was more forceful to get it into reverse for the first time. Seems fine now. Idk 🤷♂️ I chalked it up to being a new shifter.
New Clutch, No Reverse
Howdy!
New clutch and shifter install and I cannot get into reverse with the car running.
Straight to the relevant details here:
LuK 04-905 Pilot Bearing
LuK 04-905 Flywheel
LuK 04-905 Clutch Disc
LuK 04-905 Pressure Plate
LuK LSC384 Slave Cylinder
Tick Speed Bleeder
Monster Braided Clutch Line
Tick Bronze Shifter Cup
Hinson Short Shifter
All new GM flywheel and pressure plate bolts, threadlocker, torqued to spec.
I previously installed 2 washers on the transmission detent plug as well as
1 washer on the transmission reverse light switch plug.
All electrical plus are plugged in.
Fresh 4.6 quarts of Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF in the transmission and ACDelco Dot 4 Brake and Clutch Fluid in the master cylinder. I bled the clutch with about 20 ounces of fluid to make sure there were not any air bubbles.
Still on the stock master cylinder.
Car drives in all forward gears just fine, however, it does roll forward ever so slightly in 1st with the clutch fully depressed. Can get the reverse lights to light up but seems not to get fully into reverse with the car running. If I put the car in reverse and then start the car, I can back up. So mechanically it is possible, but why can't I get into reverse while running?
My initial thoughts are:
Is my reverse lockout solenoid shot?
The transmission was out of the car for over a week, do I need to perform a reset and disconnect the battery to get the solenoid working properly?
Is the reverse lockout solenoid spring really that difficult to overcome that I need to put a softer spring in?
Help me please!
Jake
New clutch and shifter install and I cannot get into reverse with the car running.
Straight to the relevant details here:
LuK 04-905 Pilot Bearing
LuK 04-905 Flywheel
LuK 04-905 Clutch Disc
LuK 04-905 Pressure Plate
LuK LSC384 Slave Cylinder
Tick Speed Bleeder
Monster Braided Clutch Line
Tick Bronze Shifter Cup
Hinson Short Shifter
All new GM flywheel and pressure plate bolts, threadlocker, torqued to spec.
I previously installed 2 washers on the transmission detent plug as well as
1 washer on the transmission reverse light switch plug.
All electrical plus are plugged in.
Fresh 4.6 quarts of Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF in the transmission and ACDelco Dot 4 Brake and Clutch Fluid in the master cylinder. I bled the clutch with about 20 ounces of fluid to make sure there were not any air bubbles.
Still on the stock master cylinder.
Car drives in all forward gears just fine, however, it does roll forward ever so slightly in 1st with the clutch fully depressed. Can get the reverse lights to light up but seems not to get fully into reverse with the car running. If I put the car in reverse and then start the car, I can back up. So mechanically it is possible, but why can't I get into reverse while running?
My initial thoughts are:
Is my reverse lockout solenoid shot?
The transmission was out of the car for over a week, do I need to perform a reset and disconnect the battery to get the solenoid working properly?
Is the reverse lockout solenoid spring really that difficult to overcome that I need to put a softer spring in?
Help me please!
Jake
21 - 40 of 52 Posts
Mine was still tough to get into reverse even on level ground after the hinson short shifter install. But after installing the tick MC, shifting into first or reverse is a dream even when rolling forwards or backwards.
The issue is the clutch is not releasing all the way. As others have said, either the slave needs shimmed, or you still have air in the system
Also, why did you put washers under the reverse lockout solenoid and the reverse light switch? They aren't supposed to be there
Also, why did you put washers under the reverse lockout solenoid and the reverse light switch? They aren't supposed to be there
It wasnt the hinson. I had zero issues with my mgwp until i installed that brass bushing.When I installed my bronze cup and hinson shifter about a month ago. I made sure I lubed the cup with transmission fluid and also the stem of the new shifter where it goes into the cup. I recall it being difficult to get into reverse, then I just was more forceful to get it into reverse for the first time. Seems fine now. Idk 🤷♂️ I chalked it up to being a new shifter.
Probably needs a shim as I have bled a ton of fluid through the system at this point.The issue is the clutch is not releasing all the way. As others have said, either the slave needs shimmed, or you still have air in the system
Also, why did you put washers under the reverse lockout solenoid and the reverse light switch? They aren't supposed to be there
It is called the Anti-Venom mod for the T-56. Washers on the detent plug and reverse light switch (not lockout solenoid) are used to make the transmission less notchy and also easier to get into reverse.
I have ordered a shim kit from Tick Performance and will plan to pull the transmission and take the measurements. I don't think it is air in the system with how much fluid I have put through it.
UPDATE!
Took everything apart again and here is what is going on...
-The clutch disc is in the correct orientation to the flywheel.
-Started to measure for a shim by first taking the spring off of the slave cylinder and putting the bearing back on, however, the plastic sleeve would not fully seat to the base of the slave cylinder. According to a video I watched from Tick Performance, that means the slave cylinder is defective. This was a brand new LuK LSC384.
-Luckily we were able to locally source a LuK LSC265B and swap the master fittings.
-We measured for shims and ended up needing to use the 0.180" shim from Tick, in addition to longer bolts.
-We bled the clutch with 32 ounces of fluid, fast pumps with fast releases, slow pumps with slow releases.
Put everything back together and took a test drive...
-Can row through all gears with the car off as well as the key set to on.
-Can get into reverse with the car running at a dead stop, but it is an unnerving amount of force.
-It is much easier to get into reverse with the car rolling backwards when on an incline.
-The car no longer rolls forward with the clutch fully depressed and pushing the shifter into gear.
I am going to try and bleed it some more, maybe while sitting on a steep incline or with a mighty vac. EDIT: I bled about 8 ounces worth on a steep driveway, issue still persists. Maybe I will just buy a mighty vac.
Could this be the situation where I need a softer reverse lockout solenoid spring?
Took everything apart again and here is what is going on...
-The clutch disc is in the correct orientation to the flywheel.
-Started to measure for a shim by first taking the spring off of the slave cylinder and putting the bearing back on, however, the plastic sleeve would not fully seat to the base of the slave cylinder. According to a video I watched from Tick Performance, that means the slave cylinder is defective. This was a brand new LuK LSC384.
-Luckily we were able to locally source a LuK LSC265B and swap the master fittings.
-We measured for shims and ended up needing to use the 0.180" shim from Tick, in addition to longer bolts.
-We bled the clutch with 32 ounces of fluid, fast pumps with fast releases, slow pumps with slow releases.
Put everything back together and took a test drive...
-Can row through all gears with the car off as well as the key set to on.
-Can get into reverse with the car running at a dead stop, but it is an unnerving amount of force.
-It is much easier to get into reverse with the car rolling backwards when on an incline.
-The car no longer rolls forward with the clutch fully depressed and pushing the shifter into gear.
I am going to try and bleed it some more, maybe while sitting on a steep incline or with a mighty vac. EDIT: I bled about 8 ounces worth on a steep driveway, issue still persists. Maybe I will just buy a mighty vac.
Could this be the situation where I need a softer reverse lockout solenoid spring?
The washer mod and a softer spring in the reverse solenoid made shifting into reverse on my 06 with a Pro Billet shifter a lot more tolerable.
Do you recall how much force it took pre-spring?The washer mod and a softer spring in the reverse solenoid made shifting into reverse on my 06 with a Pro Billet shifter a lot more tolerable.
With my shifter? Quite a lot. Before the washer mod and the spring mod I sometimes honestly had to use two hands to get it into the reverse gate. I did the washer mod first which helped a lot. Then I did the spring mod which helped more. Pretty much a normal push to get into reverse now taking into account the springs in the shifter and whatnot. No idea how much the spring mod would have done by itself. I also have the knob set at the lowest setting so leverage is lacking.Do you recall how much force it took pre-spring?
Spring has been ordered! Two hands is a crazy amount of force. I can do it with one hand almost wanting to use the back of the seat for extra leverage.With my shifter? Quite a lot. Before the washer mod and the spring mod I sometimes honestly had to use two hands to get it into the reverse gate. I did the washer mod first which helped a lot. Then I did the spring mod which helped more. Pretty much a normal push to get into reverse now taking into account the springs in the shifter and whatnot. No idea how much the spring mod would have done by itself. I also have the knob set at the lowest setting so leverage is lacking.
dumb question but you're syncronizing reverse with 1st gear, right? meaning at a stop, to go into reverse, you put it into 1st, then into reverse?
Two hands honestly sounds like the reverse solenoid isnt working. How do i know? Because the solenoid didnt work on the firebird and thats how much effort it took, now with it wired its very much a single handed.
Is there a writeup / post on this washer mod ?The washer mod and a softer spring in the reverse solenoid made shifting into reverse on my 06 with a Pro Billet shifter a lot more tolerable.
Is there a writeup / post on this washer mod ?
Anti-Venom 6 Speed Shifter Modification
Has anyone else ever heard of this ? It's used over in the corvette forum to take away the notchy feeling that sometimes occurs in the T-56 transmission. So I am presuming it would work with our GTO's. Any thoughts ?
www.ls1gto.com
Yes, I’ve tried all gears at this point to be honest.dumb question but you're syncronizing reverse with 1st gear, right? meaning at a stop, to go into reverse, you put it into 1st, then into reverse?
It worked fine with the stock shifter (until the shifter broke). The Pro Billet has ridiculously stiff internal springs and couple that with the shortest handle setting reverse is a bit of a shove even with the solenoid removed. So, couple that with a normal solenoid and it is hard to get to reverse. Can't do anything about the springs in the shifter so softening the spring in the solenoid is a help. In fact, that is the reason the company that makes the spring made those softer springs in the first place (for stiff short shifters). I later also moved the shifter knob up to the higher setting (still lower than stock) which made it more reasonable all around (more leverage). The lowest setting is REALLY low making the shifter handle very short.Two hands honestly sounds like the reverse solenoid isnt working. How do i know? Because the solenoid didnt work on the firebird and thats how much effort it took, now with it wired its very much a single handed.
I also went ahead and sourced a new solenoid. Hopefully the spring and solenoid is the ticket for me.
Rich, what size snap ring pliers did you use for the solenoid?It worked fine with the stock shifter (until the shifter broke). The Pro Billet has ridiculously stiff internal springs and couple that with the shortest handle setting reverse is a bit of a shove even with the solenoid removed. So, couple that with a normal solenoid and it is hard to get to reverse. Can't do anything about the springs in the shifter so softening the spring in the solenoid is a help. In fact, that is the reason the company that makes the spring made those softer springs in the first place (for stiff short shifters). I later also moved the shifter knob up to the higher setting (still lower than stock) which made it more reasonable all around (more leverage). The lowest setting is REALLY low making the shifter handle very short.
I don’t have any so trying to figure out what to order.
I really don't know. Medium sized?Rich, what size snap ring pliers did you use for the solenoid?
My set of snap ring pliers came from Craftman and are in a set of two different sizes and can be converted to work with both inside and outside snap rings. Of the set of two I have I used the smaller pair.
21 - 40 of 52 Posts
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