Here's a picture of the solenoid blown apart with the snap ring pliers in the photo. Maybe you can judge the size of the pliers somewhat by comparing them against the solenoid.
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New Clutch, No Reverse
Howdy!
New clutch and shifter install and I cannot get into reverse with the car running.
Straight to the relevant details here:
LuK 04-905 Pilot Bearing
LuK 04-905 Flywheel
LuK 04-905 Clutch Disc
LuK 04-905 Pressure Plate
LuK LSC384 Slave Cylinder
Tick Speed Bleeder
Monster Braided Clutch Line
Tick Bronze Shifter Cup
Hinson Short Shifter
All new GM flywheel and pressure plate bolts, threadlocker, torqued to spec.
I previously installed 2 washers on the transmission detent plug as well as
1 washer on the transmission reverse light switch plug.
All electrical plus are plugged in.
Fresh 4.6 quarts of Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF in the transmission and ACDelco Dot 4 Brake and Clutch Fluid in the master cylinder. I bled the clutch with about 20 ounces of fluid to make sure there were not any air bubbles.
Still on the stock master cylinder.
Car drives in all forward gears just fine, however, it does roll forward ever so slightly in 1st with the clutch fully depressed. Can get the reverse lights to light up but seems not to get fully into reverse with the car running. If I put the car in reverse and then start the car, I can back up. So mechanically it is possible, but why can't I get into reverse while running?
My initial thoughts are:
Is my reverse lockout solenoid shot?
The transmission was out of the car for over a week, do I need to perform a reset and disconnect the battery to get the solenoid working properly?
Is the reverse lockout solenoid spring really that difficult to overcome that I need to put a softer spring in?
Help me please!
Jake
New clutch and shifter install and I cannot get into reverse with the car running.
Straight to the relevant details here:
LuK 04-905 Pilot Bearing
LuK 04-905 Flywheel
LuK 04-905 Clutch Disc
LuK 04-905 Pressure Plate
LuK LSC384 Slave Cylinder
Tick Speed Bleeder
Monster Braided Clutch Line
Tick Bronze Shifter Cup
Hinson Short Shifter
All new GM flywheel and pressure plate bolts, threadlocker, torqued to spec.
I previously installed 2 washers on the transmission detent plug as well as
1 washer on the transmission reverse light switch plug.
All electrical plus are plugged in.
Fresh 4.6 quarts of Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF in the transmission and ACDelco Dot 4 Brake and Clutch Fluid in the master cylinder. I bled the clutch with about 20 ounces of fluid to make sure there were not any air bubbles.
Still on the stock master cylinder.
Car drives in all forward gears just fine, however, it does roll forward ever so slightly in 1st with the clutch fully depressed. Can get the reverse lights to light up but seems not to get fully into reverse with the car running. If I put the car in reverse and then start the car, I can back up. So mechanically it is possible, but why can't I get into reverse while running?
My initial thoughts are:
Is my reverse lockout solenoid shot?
The transmission was out of the car for over a week, do I need to perform a reset and disconnect the battery to get the solenoid working properly?
Is the reverse lockout solenoid spring really that difficult to overcome that I need to put a softer spring in?
Help me please!
Jake
41 - 52 of 52 Posts
Right on, I suppose the better question would be if the solenoid’s ring is an internal or external one?I really don't know. Medium sized?
My set of snap ring pliers came from Craftman and are in a set of two different sizes and can be converted to work with both inside and outside snap rings. Of the set of two I have I used the smaller pair.
This helps a lot, thank you!Here's a picture of the solenoid blown apart with the snap ring pliers in the photo. Maybe you can judge the size of the pliers somewhat by comparing them against the solenoid.
View attachment 526814
The main one that holds the whole spring mechanism into the body of the solenoid is an internal spring. The contraption with the spring has a little c-clip holding it together if I remember correctly, just need a small flat blade screwdriver on that one. Keep it covered with your hand as you take the clip off as it can go sailing when it comes loose. Ask me how I know.Right on, I suppose the better question would be if the solenoid’s ring is an internal or external one?
The site seems to be having problems with me uploading photos. Here's a link to the photo from my website.
Oh boy, thanks for the heads up. You probably just saved me from a pissed off and bruised wife, cracked window in the house, or scratched paint on the car!The main one that holds the whole spring mechanism into the body of the solenoid is an internal spring. The contraption with the spring has a little c-clip holding it together if I remember correctly, just need a small flat blade screwdriver on that one. Keep it covered with your hand as you take the clip off as it can go sailing when it comes loose. Ask me how I know.
Did the existing spring feel pretty stout? I read somewhere on this site that it takes 30-50 lbs of force to compress.
Perfect, thanks again!The site seems to be having problems with me uploading photos. Here's a link to the photo from my website.
Really hoping this is the ticket for me. I’ll update once installed and tested! Hopefully Saturday morning.
I don't know, it was stiff when compressed into place. I've read numbers about how stiff but they are hard to put into context.Did the existing spring feel pretty stout? I read somewhere on this site that it takes 30-50 lbs of force to compress.
On my 04 I have a Sikky shifter with a fairly short handle, but it isn't any problem to get into reverse since the Sikky shifter doesn't have ridiculously stiff springs in the shifter itself like the Pro Billet on the 06. I've not done the washer mod nor the solenoid spring mod on the 04 and it works just fine. Point being, a lot depends on the shifter being used and if you use a tall or short handle.
It's incredible how much the shifters' internal springs have an impact on the shifting experience, in combination with the solenoid spring.I don't know, it was stiff when compressed into place. I've read numbers about how stiff but they are hard to put into context.
On my 04 I have a Sikky shifter with a fairly short handle, but it isn't any problem to get into reverse since the Sikky shifter doesn't have ridiculously stiff springs in the shifter itself like the Pro Billet on the 06. I've not done the washer mod nor the solenoid spring mod on the 04 and it works just fine. Point being, a lot depends on the shifter being used and if you use a tall or short handle.
UPDATE
The Core Shifters spring is in. It is half the size of the stocker. A lot easier to get into reverse but still takes some effort.
The solenoid I ordered was just the solenoid, not the whole assembly. Since it's pretty much the same price for the whole assembly I'm going to go that route and move the Core spring over.
I should also mention that the part that requires the most force is getting it up into the reverse gear longitudinally, not necessarily just over laterally.
The Core Shifters spring is in. It is half the size of the stocker. A lot easier to get into reverse but still takes some effort.
The solenoid I ordered was just the solenoid, not the whole assembly. Since it's pretty much the same price for the whole assembly I'm going to go that route and move the Core spring over.
I should also mention that the part that requires the most force is getting it up into the reverse gear longitudinally, not necessarily just over laterally.
@Rich-Tripower
I'm replacing the solenoid as soon as the part comes in, whole new solenoid and housing assembly, as well as moving the Core Shifter spring over to the new assembly.
When you say a normal push, is it equivalent to a push required to get into the other gears?With my shifter? Quite a lot. Before the washer mod and the spring mod I sometimes honestly had to use two hands to get it into the reverse gate. I did the washer mod first which helped a lot. Then I did the spring mod which helped more. Pretty much a normal push to get into reverse now taking into account the springs in the shifter and whatnot. No idea how much the spring mod would have done by itself. I also have the knob set at the lowest setting so leverage is lacking.
Core Shifter spring is in, coupled with the original solenoid, and I'm estimating it is taking about 25 pounds of force to get it UP into reverse, OVER it doesn't seem to be an issue. It was probably 50 pounds of force pre-spring. I'm a fairly strong person, but the force is tough to gauge.Two hands honestly sounds like the reverse solenoid isnt working. How do i know? Because the solenoid didnt work on the firebird and thats how much effort it took, now with it wired its very much a single handed.
I'm replacing the solenoid as soon as the part comes in, whole new solenoid and housing assembly, as well as moving the Core Shifter spring over to the new assembly.
Yes, regardless of all other factors, reverse is more of a push to get into gear than other gears. In my specific situation, you need to take into consideration that the Pro Billet shifter I have is a big factor in the stiffness of getting into reverse. There are some pretty heavy springs in the shifter itself. Other shifters may not provide as much resistance. My Sikky is much easier to get into reverse and I haven't done any of the washer mods or solenoid mods on it.@Rich-Tripower
When you say a normal push, is it equivalent to a push required to get into the other gears?
41 - 52 of 52 Posts
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