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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
...and what an amazing change. I have soooo much more clarity and can turn the volume up quite a bit more with no distortion now.

I replaced the factory tweeters with Kenwood KFC-XT14s (left them in the factory location) and I replaced the door and rear side speakers with Kenwood KFC-X168s. I left the factory subs in but I adjusted the amp since the factory is always so conservative on their settings.

The Crutchfield lady I spoke with sent me 3 different adapter wire sets but none of them worked. They have not worked up the GTO yet so you are on your own for the wiring. I snipped and soldered the wires for the tweeters and reused the factory connector but had to make up some spade type connectors for the doors and rear sides.

I will say that the factory speakers in the rear side locations are much better than the front door ones. The front doors had the paper cone tweeters but the rears were a higher quality two way speaker. They will be a nice upgrade for my son's girlfriend's Mitsubishi.

Anywho, if anyone is frustrated, as I was, with the factory sounds and not having any treble to speak of, spend a few hundred and change 'em. You won't regret it.

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standard speaker mounts in all factory locations.
 

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Goatless
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I put in Infinitys, and I just had to drill new holes in the existing mounts as the factory speakers only used three screws, if I'm remembering right. Metal in the back, and plastic in the front.
 

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Gone but not forgotten
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Discussion Starter #6
I forgot this part...

Make sure your tool set is complete before you start.

You'll need a philips screwdriver for the trim pieces you pull off to get to the tweeters. The screws that hold the tweeter brackets are very tight and there is limited maneuverability, so I used a philips bit in a ratchet to get them started. The door panels come off with regular philips screws. You'll need a stubby one for a couple of them. Then you have to have a torx bit to get the lower door trim panel off and you need to remove the lower rear seat belt mount - a large adjustable wrench will handle that. Use a flat screwdriver to pop the plastic bolt cover off. Be careful about removing the lower seat trim panels. No tools, but they snap together. You'll need that torx bit again for the rear panels. No tools needed to remove the lower rear seat. The front speakers are held in with philips screws but the rears are held in with "reverse torx" screws. You'll need the size E7 socket.

Good luck.

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Yellow Goat
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What kind of adjustments are on the factory amp and where is it? Did you adjust both the full range channels and the sub channel? Crank up the subs I assume. I might be going this route. I like the factory head unit, well at least the looks of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Just the subs...

The amp is in the trunk, between the inner and outer fender on the driver's side. Loosen four screws a bit and lift the amp up and toward the rear and then you will see a gain control screw. Mine was set between 1/3 and 1/2 and I turned it closer to 3/4. Adjust your bass setting on the head unit to +4 and set the volume in the car to how you might listen when you have it up loud (I used 45), then adjust the gain so it just a touch below any distortion. That will give you the chance to add a bit more to a particular CD and to have good response for most "normal" listening.

Some of the more "audiophile" of the members may have a better description but that seemed to work well for me.

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I think I have had some of my speakers rattle loose. My rear passenger speaks occasionally produce a rattle as well as the drivers side rear seat one.

Once I added my trunk sub the rear deck subs stopped bottoming out.

If I am going to pull the car apart to tighten down the cabin speakers I will replace them at the same time. I tend to favor MB Quart speakers. Any other recommendations?

_DM
 

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Yellow Goat
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Thanks for the help. I'll check that out tomorrow probably.
 

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GO STEELERS!
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Diamond Audio and Focal make some GREAT component speakers.

Diamond has great prices and quality on Components and Subs.
 

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Yellow Goat
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Fast GTO said:
Diamond Audio and Focal make some GREAT component speakers.

Diamond has great prices and quality on Components and Subs.
Do they make matching tweeter separates to go with the coax? Here's what I want.

6" mids in the rear, 1" tweeters in the dash and 6" coax in the doors. And I want them all to be exact matched components.

Was thinking of Diamond, MB Quart, Kicker, ADS, Soundstream, etc. I also want very efficient speakers to make good use of the available power. (Which I guess will rule out MB Quart.)

These are all 4 ohm speakers right? The stock ones.
 

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1COOLPC said:
Do they make matching tweeter separates to go with the coax? Here's what I want.

6" mids in the rear, 1" tweeters in the dash and 6" coax in the doors. And I want them all to be exact matched components.

Was thinking of Diamond, MB Quart, Kicker, ADS, Soundstream, etc. I also want very efficient speakers to make good use of the available power. (Which I guess will rule out MB Quart.)

These are all 4 ohm speakers right? The stock ones.
I personally don't like Kicker and think Diamond has overrated sound quality (people say they are great but they are at best good... not bad speakers just not that great). Diamond are a good buy since they are relatively inexpensive. MB Quart are very bright which some people like, but they do take quite a bit of tweaking (my last install had them and I dropped 17k+ -8). /a/d/s have some great deals going on and are pretty efficient, but like Diamond they are a bit overrated mainly due to their home audio reputation. I haven't heard Soundstream since they got bought out, but people in a few comps I have talked to don't seem to like them.

Speakers that do fit the bill are the relatively new stateside speaker CDT, but your power handling may put them out of range. Directed speakers often get good reviews for inexpensive with a nice smooth sound. Cash not a problem jump on the Focals or Dynaudio. However, given your power requirements and I would guess looking for a less expensive speaker I would take a listen to the JL Audio component set.
 

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GO STEELERS!
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This is not targeted at anyone...


Opinions are like ASSHOLES, you know the rest.

Companies to buy from that won't dissappoint:

Focal, Diamond Audio, Phoenix Gold, Eclipse, JL Audio, MB Quart, CDT (expensive).

Buy your stuff from one of those companies and you will be good to go.



Also, I would think twice about adding too man speakers to your GTO. Technically having speakers in the back and front results in sound distortion because of the sound waves running together from the front and back.

Best way to get good SQ is to just go with a solid set of components up front and a sub in the trunk. Forget about the rear fill completely, you don't sit back there so who cares.
Eclipse makes the full range of car audio and would be my personal suggestion followed by Diamond Audio, JL Audio, Focal, and Phoenix Gold.
 

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Fast GTO said:
This is not targeted at anyone...
Opinions are like ASSHOLES, you know the rest.

Companies to buy from that won't dissappoint:
Focal, Diamond Audio, Phoenix Gold, Eclipse, JL Audio, MB Quart, CDT (expensive).
Buy your stuff from one of those companies and you will be good to go.
Some of us (I am assuming) have spent years working in/around car audio. I can tell you after spending several years competing that there are some general "opinions" out there on what brands perform well bang for the buck. The opinions are generally based on what wins. Focal Utopias and DynAudio are top of the heap, followed by CDT and MB Quart. Between those four I can tell you that is mostly listening preference since each has a distinct sound and are top quality. MB Quart are bright, Focals have excellent staging even in "difficult" environments, DynAudio have probably the best midbass around, and CDT have a nice neutral sound. These speakers are standouts not because of the speaker themselves but also the excellent passive crossovers that come with them.

Past those you get into budget speaker lines that are very personal preference. Good news is you can listen to most major brands at good car audio places and I HIGHTLY recommend you do so. Bad news is you usually can't hear them in installs. Personally, I used to recommend going to an audio show and listening to cars in the class you can afford then duplicate the setup that way you know what you are getting. It is more difficult now since most audio shows have degenerated into tuner shows, but you can still find them if you look.

Also, I would think twice about adding too man speakers to your GTO. Technically having speakers in the back and front results in sound distortion because of the sound waves running together from the front and back.

Best way to get good SQ is to just go with a solid set of components up front and a sub in the trunk. Forget about the rear fill completely, you don't sit back there so who cares.
Rear fill (generally) equals death to a sound system. It is exceedingly hard to balance front and rear output since sound is bouncing off at wierd angles. Personally for convience I have shifted my midbass to the rear in my last three installs and it has worked out well. If you don't mind fiberglassing or kickpanels you can keep it up front, but I have found the convience of stock speaker locations to the trade off of kickpanels worth it. Also asking two-way components to do 90hz+ doesn't produce as clean a sound as three ways. My personal preference is 25-75hz sub/trunk, 90-190hz midbass/rear, and 205hz + up front. This setup yields plenty of volume and doesn't ask mid-budget speakers to do too much. Midbass is somewhat directional so placement in the rear can still be important, but most people I know can't tell and installation is a snap since no custom fiberglassing is generally needed.

Eclipse makes the full range of car audio and would be my personal suggestion followed by Diamond Audio, JL Audio, Focal, and Phoenix Gold.
Eclipse has been the unsung heroes of car audio for quite a while. They were very much like the old Clarion (the good Clarion stuff). Great stuff, great prices. Haven't heard any installs lately with their stuff, but if it is as good as the old stuff... you will be happy. As for Phoenix Gold avoid the Octane line. I haven't spoken with anyone who knows more than a bit about car audio that didn't think they are a waste of money. The comp and comp elite are fine speakers and I haven't auditioned the new Xenons so I cannot comment on them.

Another to add to the list if power isn't an issue is Image Dynamics. Couple years back they stole show after show. They are high power and they make one of the best pound for pound, dollar for dollar subs out there not to mention their midbass speakers are nice. They won't beat out Focal or Dynaudio for staging (unless you have room to install their horns), but bang for the buck they are very hard to beat.
 

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No argument here, I was just saying that if you stick with the companies I mentioned you can't go wrong. The audiophile always has his 'best pick', but I think the companies I mentioned are pretty safe.

But whatever you do stay away from anything they sell at Bestbuy or Circuit City.
 

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I have a simple response to what everyone has stated here: Everyone's ear is differnet, what sounds good to one person may not sound good to another. You have to listen to the speakers yourself with the music that YOU listen to in order to find a speaker that will suffice. Remember it is your hearing that has to be satisfied not the guy's on the showroom.
 

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Fast GTO said:
But whatever you do stay away from anything they sell at Bestbuy or Circuit City.
I would add do not let those hacks get anywhere near your car. I would at least make sure the guy doing your car has MECP cert and make sure to look at his book. If he is worth his salt, you should see a few cars in there far more expensive than your GTO.

BTW, I left off Boston Accoustics which make some really nice sounding but VERY expensive speakers.

I have a simple response to what everyone has stated here: Everyone's ear is differnet, what sounds good to one person may not sound good to another. You have to listen to the speakers yourself with the music that YOU listen to in order to find a speaker that will suffice. Remember it is your hearing that has to be satisfied not the guy's on the showroom.
I was having a discussion about this with a good friend of mine who is currently a home audio installer and he brought up a very good point. As you spend more time listening to sound systems your ear gets more experienced and can really tell the distinctions between speakers and "holes" in yours. Preferences change and they usually lean towards better staging and neutral/softer speakers. Speakers like MB Quart jump out at you early on, but a month after listening to them you will likely be ready for something softer. Most people pass on silk dome tweeters early on because the do not appear as loud or as vibrant, but remember speakers are something that you live with for years usually. Listening to others opinions can help you decide between two or three speakers you like. Never select a speaker you haven't heard or one you don't initally like is a more than fair statement, but ignoring the opinions of others isn't good advice.

Also remember most speakers "break-in" and change the more music they play. Once again a good reason to listen to a system in a real car before buying. There is a reason a $200 speaker isn't usually as good as a $600 speaker even if you initially can't tell a significant difference.
 

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straegen, when you say "staging", what are you referring to?


I will also second your Image Dynamics recommendation. Most people seem to have never heard of them, and a year after installing an IDQ 10" sub, it is still amazing me.
 

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chupa said:
straegen, when you say "staging", what are you referring to?


I will also second your Image Dynamics recommendation. Most people seem to have never heard of them, and a year after installing an IDQ 10" sub, it is still amazing me.
Staging is a term used to describe the reference of sounds emitted from your speakers. A good example of what good staging would be is when you close your eyes while listening to music you can pick out distinct areas where the music appears to be coming from. For instance sitting in your front seat it should sounds as if the singer is sitting right on center of your hood, while the guitars are offset behind him to either the left or right side. Basically you can picture the depth of the Stage from just the sound. Many speakers lack this depth and definition, making the sounds blend together losing clarity and become clustered.

The best way to hear this difference is by listening to a good acoustic or jazz selection. Persnally I like Stevie Ray Vaughn for this type of experiment. A good staging speaker will make the accompanying instruments sound like they are coming from outside the car (not muffled that is, but sound like the speakers are actually further out than the door). The depth of the guitar riffs will roll off the speakers where you can hear every guitar pick as it hits the strings and even his fingers as they glide accross the neck. Check out Texas Flood on a good set of speakers and you will see what I mean.
 
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