You also should be able to use a LS1 truck oil filter ... its a tad bigger
Normal Maintenance Replacement Parts
Engine Air Cleaner/Filter GM# 92082656
Engine Oil Filter GM# 88984215 ACDelco # PF-46
Spark Plugs GAP 0.040 GM# 12571164 ACDelco # 41-985
BULBS
Back-up Lamp 1156
Front Sidemarker Lamp 168
Front Turn and Parking Lamp 1157NA
High-Beam Headlamp H9
Low-Beam Headlamp H11
Rear Turn 1156NA
Stop/Taillamp 1157
Hope this helps everyone.
Engine Oil Filter GM# 88984215 ACDelco # PF-46
Spark Plugs GAP 0.040 GM# 12571164 ACDelco # 41-985
BULBS
Back-up Lamp 1156
Front Sidemarker Lamp 168
Front Turn and Parking Lamp 1157NA
High-Beam Headlamp H9
Low-Beam Headlamp H11
Rear Turn 1156NA
Stop/Taillamp 1157
Hope this helps everyone.
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Do you have a part number?
Be wary of using the larger truck filters. They tend to hang down about an inch past the bottom of the oil pan and could become snagged on something.
I know everyone thinks that a bigger filter means better filtration, but the minimal gain in whatever filtration you may have is highly offset by the fact that little bit of extra oil is in the filter and NOT in the engine where it should be protecting bearing surfaces, acting as a cooling mechanism, and cleaning agent.
I know everyone thinks that a bigger filter means better filtration, but the minimal gain in whatever filtration you may have is highly offset by the fact that little bit of extra oil is in the filter and NOT in the engine where it should be protecting bearing surfaces, acting as a cooling mechanism, and cleaning agent.
So... why can't you put in more oil???????????????CMNTMXR57 said:Be wary of using the larger truck filters. They tend to hang down about an inch past the bottom of the oil pan and could become snagged on something.
Very true!
I know everyone thinks that a bigger filter means better filtration, but the minimal gain in whatever filtration you may have is highly offset by the fact that little bit of extra oil is in the filter and NOT in the engine where it should be protecting bearing surfaces, acting as a cooling mechanism, and cleaning agent.
I do (I run 7.5 quarts). But I still, no matter how much oil I put in, would rather have it in the engine doing it's job, not in a bigger filter getting .0015789% more filtration.
CMNTMXR57 said:I do (I run 7.5 quarts). But I still, no matter how much oil I put in, would rather have it in the engine doing it's job, not in a bigger filter getting .0015789% more filtration.
.0015789... let's be real.
If the oil filter gives a bit more capacity, lets say 1/4 qt. and you add that much more oil, you end up with the same amount or the correct level in the pan.
I don't see how more volume in the filter will decrease the volume in the engine as long as the oil level is at full on the dipstick. Having two large remote filters doesn't make the engine run a quart low.
The added volume will cause the oil to cycle thru the system (oil cooler) less often, but the heat is also spread to a higher volume of oil so it should be a wash as far as temperature.
Tom
The added volume will cause the oil to cycle thru the system (oil cooler) less often, but the heat is also spread to a higher volume of oil so it should be a wash as far as temperature.
Tom
tminer said:I don't see how more volume in the filter will decrease the volume in the engine as long as the oil level is at full on the dipstick. Having two large remote filters doesn't make the engine run a quart low.
The added volume will cause the oil to cycle thru the system (oil cooler) less often, but the heat is also spread to a higher volume of oil so it should be a wash as far as temperature.
Tom
Exactly.
How much oil does the engine take?
6.5 quarts. You guys do what you want. I threw the .0015789 sarcastically.
I run 7.5 quarts with the stock sized filter, therefore MORE oil is in the ENGINE and NOT in the oil filter or cooler! It's in the engine ready to be pumped, there to coat the mains, and more importantly there to coat those mains when the engine pumps all the oil to the upper cylindrical area.
The LS1 has an oil return problem at high rpm. The oil doesn't drain back to the pan fast enough therefore leaving the main bearings DRY! There are a couple ways around this. 1) fabricate your own drain line(s) off the heads and tap them into your oil pan or 2) simply run more oil. I chose the latter.
If I put a bigger filter on to get a small bit more filtration, in order to compensate, then I'd have to run 8 or more quarts of oil. Now you run into a problem that you have TOO much oil and the engine either burns it or pushes it out of the seals.
In the end, the additional capacity of a larger filter doesn’t necessarily translate into more filtration. It just simply means that more oil is elsewhere in the system OTHER than the engine. If you want your oil in the cooler or in a filter, be my guest. It’s your car and your engine. I’ll rather keep mine in the crankcase thank you very much, no matter how much I “compensate”.
I run 7.5 quarts with the stock sized filter, therefore MORE oil is in the ENGINE and NOT in the oil filter or cooler! It's in the engine ready to be pumped, there to coat the mains, and more importantly there to coat those mains when the engine pumps all the oil to the upper cylindrical area.
The LS1 has an oil return problem at high rpm. The oil doesn't drain back to the pan fast enough therefore leaving the main bearings DRY! There are a couple ways around this. 1) fabricate your own drain line(s) off the heads and tap them into your oil pan or 2) simply run more oil. I chose the latter.
If I put a bigger filter on to get a small bit more filtration, in order to compensate, then I'd have to run 8 or more quarts of oil. Now you run into a problem that you have TOO much oil and the engine either burns it or pushes it out of the seals.
In the end, the additional capacity of a larger filter doesn’t necessarily translate into more filtration. It just simply means that more oil is elsewhere in the system OTHER than the engine. If you want your oil in the cooler or in a filter, be my guest. It’s your car and your engine. I’ll rather keep mine in the crankcase thank you very much, no matter how much I “compensate”.
CMNTMXR57 said:The LS1 has an oil return problem at high rpm. The oil doesn't drain back to the pan fast enough therefore leaving the main bearings DRY!
I thought it was a high RPM extended use issue. Not everyday driving or occasional drag race. Learn something every day.
This is true, but say you run it to 7,000 rpm through all 4 gears in the 1/4. It's not as extended as an road race/auto-x, but the sump will still get it up there.
Oil Level
O.K., now you guys are confusing me. Been a gear head all my life and have Drag Raced cars and bikes for 30 years. My Mach1 held 6.0 qts. I thought that general consensus was, that when you "overfilled" the pan, the crank ran into the oil too much and foamed it up, adding air, the pump couldn't pick the oil up because of the air and you ended up with LOWER oil pressure and potential problems. ENLIGHTEN me!!!!!
O.K., now you guys are confusing me. Been a gear head all my life and have Drag Raced cars and bikes for 30 years. My Mach1 held 6.0 qts. I thought that general consensus was, that when you "overfilled" the pan, the crank ran into the oil too much and foamed it up, adding air, the pump couldn't pick the oil up because of the air and you ended up with LOWER oil pressure and potential problems. ENLIGHTEN me!!!!!
I've always heard too much was bad. I just changed my oil and put in 6.5 qt. If CMNT says 7.5 qt is all good I guess I'll go dump the other 0.5 qt in and call 7qt done.
Different subject, but whats the difference between an 1157 and an 1157NA bulb?
An ounce or two of extra oil from a longer filter on the pressure side won't do anything to the return side unless the oil return is so bad that the pump sucks air. normally the filter we be full so long as some oil is present in the sump.
ground clearance should be the biggest worry.
proper crank windage will result in higher power output. On the bulletproof smallblock design with no oil drain back issues, running a qt low at the drag strip resulted in quicker runs even with an aftermarket windage tray.
overfilling might be needed for showroom stock track days, but I would be against it on the street or strip.
ground clearance should be the biggest worry.
proper crank windage will result in higher power output. On the bulletproof smallblock design with no oil drain back issues, running a qt low at the drag strip resulted in quicker runs even with an aftermarket windage tray.
overfilling might be needed for showroom stock track days, but I would be against it on the street or strip.
Its an amber colored bulb.ctaylor45 said:Different subject, but whats the difference between an 1157 and an 1157NA bulb?
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
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