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Discussion Starter · #83 ·
And to get us back on track, I’m gonna check to see if my trans mount isn’t loose and allowing front stuff to shift/thump, that’s a recent install.
Along with blacks suggestion and ultimately swapping out the coil over and checking the steering rack.
I means it’s something, I just have to find it...
 

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Discussion Starter · #84 ·
Welp, I’m quickly running out of ideas here. I’m seriously tempted to take the entire front end apart but I’ve just about done that a piece at a time.

the issue is a thump on FR wheel when coming to an abrupt stop, forward or back.

all poly suspension, BC’s, joints and rods about 10K miles old. Sounds like it’s near the passenger wheel, lower to ground, not near the strut mount.

It’s easier to say what I haven’t done, haven’t:

inspected the hub assembly
Taken the coilover completely off but is bolted up tight and assembled correctly.
Taken the LCA off the cradle but there’s is no wiggle room for any thumpiness

Noise started on pass side after busting a wheel on driver side.
No signs of structural damage and every bolt I can think of/see has been checked.

need suggestions por favor.
 

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maybe your washer tank is loose and thumping around.

dead squirrel behind the foglamp. maybe that's why the doggo kept hanging around the front of your car?

maybe it's something inside the fender. an aussie line worker at the holden plant left you a present.
 

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Discussion Starter · #88 ·
Do the wheel hubs bolt to the spindle on these cars? Maybe it's loose?
It appears so, think I saw 3-8mm or so Allen head bolts securing it to the spindle. I didn’t see any movement marks so didn’t bother checking them but worth a shot.
I’ve considered all highly unlikely possibilities but there still are a few more like the hub itself being worn even though I don’t hear a bad bearing noise.

yesterday’s trial was looking at the SCSS motor mounts and rotating them 90* in case there was play in the ferrule that the bolt connects through.Checking cat to header cnxn, trans mount n member, bellhousing, front core support and inspecting the core support for any loose bolts and the frame rails for cracks, same for cradle.
All switchable bushings have been switched aside from LCA to cradle so all that is left is hub, coilover and that bushing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #90 ·
you just don't want to believe it's the coilover.

stick a stock strut in there.
at this point anything I try is beyond reason but why not, I have an extra pair. I’ll need an alignment after but am sure I’m past the point of a no-cost solution.

I can literally jump on the front end with no noise but eh....maybe the CO shaft has lateral play within the bore 🤷🏼‍♂️
 

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at this point anything I try is beyond reason but why not, I have an extra pair. I’ll need an alignment after but am sure I’m past the point of a no-cost solution.

I can literally jump on the front end with no noise but eh....maybe the CO shaft has lateral play within the bore 🤷🏼‍♂️
change it and see if it helps first before getting the alignment
 

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wut?

you mean the upper slot in the clevis and the adjusting screw in the knuckle? unless you have camber plates we all don't know about.
 

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wut?

you mean the upper slot in the clevis and the adjusting screw in the knuckle? unless you have camber plates we all don't know about.
he had me a bit confused too. shouldnt matter unless you change them permanently anyways. for just testing purposes it wouldnt do any harm
 

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Discussion Starter · #95 ·
Broskis,
The oblong upper hole on the strut frame. If I remove the CO that I have in there now I’d have to reinstall in the same position to have the same camber I had before.
Ooh, you’re saying that if I don’t mess with the adjusting screw on the knuckle should go back to the same location, gotcha

508240
 

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Discussion Starter · #96 ·
Anywho’s, went out to do a quick R/r and remembered that I had raised the height some for these other wheels I’m running. Then I wondered if I inadvertently messed with the preload so I reset the preload a spanned wrench’s width and no change.
Had my son do some back and forths but he’s a newb so was hard for me to get a good listen so I had him record another vid.

What’s weird is I heard the sound just as the clutch is engaged which makes me wonder if the motor mounts are shot. They are old team scss 2 piece deals.
Son of a gun, could they be broken and hitting the interior safety locks???

should anyone care to have a listen:

 

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Broskis,
The oblong upper hole on the strut frame. If I remove the CO that I have in there now I’d have to reinstall in the same position to have the same camber I had before.
Ooh, you’re saying that if I don’t mess with the adjusting screw on the knuckle should go back to the same location, gotcha

View attachment 508240
it's called a clevis.
 

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Anywho’s, went out to do a quick R/r and remembered that I had raised the height some for these other wheels I’m running. Then I wondered if I inadvertently messed with the preload so I reset the preload a spanned wrench’s width and no change.
Had my son do some back and forths but he’s a newb so was hard for me to get a good listen so I had him record another vid.

What’s weird is I heard the sound just as the clutch is engaged which makes me wonder if the motor mounts are shot. They are old team scss 2 piece deals.
Son of a gun, could they be broken and hitting the interior safety locks???

should anyone care to have a listen:

i would think the sound would show up whenever torque is applied to the drive train, but it's worth a shot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #100 ·
i would think the sound would show up whenever torque is applied to the drive train, but it's worth a shot.
yeah, without knowing what to look for I can neither agree or disagree. Sometimes it’s wheel well, others strut tower, others it’s sounds like pass side, others it’s near the motor. The sound is so discrete it’s so hard to pin point it’s origin.
 
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