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Just did my initial oil change to Mobil 1. While under there, I noticed a message embossed on the oil pan - "Special oil drain procedures required, see shop manual", or words to that effect. Anyone know what those "special procedures" might be? I let the oil drain for about 1/2 hour, there was barely a drip when I replaced the plug. When I refilled however, it only took 6 quarts to reach the upper end of the "Full" range on the dipstick. Are the "special procedures" (whatever they might be) needed to get out that last 1/2 quart of old oil? I've been changing my own oil for years, haven't seen anything like this before. :confused:
 

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gtofan, I'm not sure. Took My GTO to dealer for new Mobil 1 and filter. It took 6 1/2qts. That's what I was told. I also told them that it would take 6 1/2qts. according to the owners manual. The dealer did a n/c for 1st. oil change. Surprised your's wouldn't as a perk.
 

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COSMO GUY said:
gtofan, I'm not sure. Took My GTO to dealer for new Mobil 1 and filter. It took 6 1/2qts. That's what I was told. I also told them that it would take 6 1/2qts. according to the owners manual. The dealer did a n/c for 1st. oil change. Surprised your's wouldn't as a perk.
I think I just answered my own question - did a Google search and found an LS1 Q&A that explained the "special procedure". It's simply to let the oil drain for at least 7 minutes to get it out all the various oil galleries in the LS-1. Given that, a 1/2 hour to drain should certainly be more than adequate. I'll check the oil again in the morning after it sits overnight. By the way, my dealer did offer a free first-time oil change, but he's 35 miles away and I like to do my own routine maintenance anyway. Thanks for the response.
 

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gtofan, 35 miles is a stroll down the road. I like also doing my own maintance. Sometimes have doubts about dealer wanta be's....(I have heard some real bad stories) GM is warrenty minded with this car especially I feel. Here's a dumb question. You did use a new filter??? Well, let us know if the oil level went down after the car sits for awhile. Cos
 

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Are you guys going to change oil every 3k or sooner? Changing more often certainly would not hurt correct?
 

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I'm at 1900 miles and I've had 2 oil changes already (500 and about 1600) I will do another at 3k and continue at 3k intervals from there. Still haven't decided about changing to synthetic yet...
Dan
 

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Dbluegoat, I changed mine @ 760mi. Will change again @1400mi. Then will go 2.5k intervals. Most my driving with the"GTO" will be town. Switched to Mobil 1 being a Vette motor. I did purchase Mobil 1 oil cap & sticker on E-Bay to identify the oil in the engine compartment.
 

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My driving is mostly in town also, plus i want drive it hard when the mood strikes me, I think i may follow that schedule ever 2500, it appears that most people on here are going with Mobil 1, I guess that is the preferred oil. thanks
 

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"The synthetics I recommend are Castrol 0w30 (German made Syntec ONLY, not
the US made stuff), Amsoil 0w30 or 5w30, or Redline 5w30."

Over on LS1tech.com, there is a gentleman by the name of 'Patman' who is deferred to as the resident oil expert (with the abundance of people over there - it's impressive that almost unanimously they agree on this). He recommends different oils based on climate - as well as driving conditions. He has test information on which oils fall into the 'thicker' and 'thinner' oils in each viscosity range and appears to have his oil analyzed every change for particles, etc. The above was his response for what he'd recommend for the GTO going synthetic.
If I end up switching, I figure I will follow his advice. I know the belle tire chains around here had an add for either amsoil or redline so I can get one of these types there.
At the same time, many people swear up and down by mobil one - and the dealerships will stock it for you saving on changes.
Dan
 

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does the GTO come with synthetic in it as factory fill? i have run coventional oil in everything else i own and never had problems. i always change at 2500 to 3000 miles too.
 

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Oil Brand

I always used Mobile 1 oil and filters when I lived in Tennessee. I moved here to North Dakota in 2000 and could always find the oil but the filters were impossible to locate. Mail ordering them was too expensive.

I decided to try Amsoil which is also mail order but for $20.00 a year they give you dealer pricing. And no problem with filters. I use the 5W-30 in my 99 Cyrysler Sebring and 96 Impala SS. During drag racing season I used the 10W-40. Amsoil is also rated higher in many areas. It works for me.

Also, I don't do it but they have a 0W-30 that you can supposedly run in your engine for a year with one filter change.

slick50
 

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COSMO GUY said:
gtofan, 35 miles is a stroll down the road. I like also doing my own maintance. Sometimes have doubts about dealer wanta be's....(I have heard some real bad stories) GM is warrenty minded with this car especially I feel. Here's a dumb question. You did use a new filter??? Well, let us know if the oil level went down after the car sits for awhile. Cos
Oh yeah, I always change the filter, an AC PF 46 that replaces the factory PF 44 in this case. Agree with your doubts about some mechanics, I've had those ever since some bonehead stripped out an oil drain plug on my car by installing it with a pneumatic wrench.
By the way, a tip for those of us without a lot of experience in changing your own oil, it's been mentioned here before that you should fill the new filter with oil before installing to ensure immediate oil pressure on restart. I've found that the filter element absorbs a good bit of oil, so I fill it, let it sit a bit, then keep adding oil until the element is saturated and the filter is full. Only takes a minute or two. The filter will eventually take a little less than half a quart. Might sound anal to some, but I baby my cars and by taking this small precaution I know I have instant oil pressure when I restart the engine.
As far as the warranty goes, agree with that too - I keep my oil/filter receipts, and the receipt for lift time at the auto hobby shop that I use. For those who are interested, here's the info on the "special drain procedure" that I found at a Corvette site. Realize we don't have the butterfly pan, but it's probably still good practice to drain it when the car's level:

SERVICE INFORMATION
LS1 OIL CHANGE

Vehicle must be level. (VERY IMPORTANT.) The butterfly oil pan must be level for all the oil to drain.
Allow a MINIMUM OF 7 MINUTES for the oil to drain fully after the oil filter and oil drain plug have been removed. There are oil galleries in the LS1 that need time to drain fully.
Allow a MINIMUM OF 3 MINUTES for the new oil to fully fill the engine oil pan before starting the engine.


Still reading full on the dipstick today after six quarts, I'm guess I'm going to leave it that way, since I don't want to overfill. Will keep an eye on it, though.
 

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gtofan, Well, if it is still reading full. I wouldn't add anymore. Maybe by filling your oil filter first; you've gained most of that Frational amount...Thanks, for the oil drain info.
Didn't give much thought to letting the new oil drain to the bottom of the Butterfly pan... Keep us posted. Cos

P.s. I also keep all paid receipts and write the milage on them. Also, had a
guy at one quick lubes strip my drain plug. I went back --it was that way when the car came in!!!! Yeah!! Right... Went home chased the threads and bought a new plug....What a waste of oil...
 

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tbone3424 said:
does the GTO come with synthetic in it as factory fill? i have run coventional oil in everything else i own and never had problems. i always change at 2500 to 3000 miles too.
No it comes with dino.
:drink: :drink:
 

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gtofan said:
Oh yeah, I always change the filter, an AC PF 46 that replaces the factory PF 44 in this case. Agree with your doubts about some mechanics, I've had those ever since some bonehead stripped out an oil drain plug on my car by installing it with a pneumatic wrench.
By the way, a tip for those of us without a lot of experience in changing your own oil, it's been mentioned here before that you should fill the new filter with oil before installing to ensure immediate oil pressure on restart. I've found that the filter element absorbs a good bit of oil, so I fill it, let it sit a bit, then keep adding oil until the element is saturated and the filter is full. Only takes a minute or two. The filter will eventually take a little less than half a quart. Might sound anal to some, but I baby my cars and by taking this small precaution I know I have instant oil pressure when I restart the engine.
As far as the warranty goes, agree with that too - I keep my oil/filter receipts, and the receipt for lift time at the auto hobby shop that I use. For those who are interested, here's the info on the "special drain procedure" that I found at a Corvette site. Realize we don't have the butterfly pan, but it's probably still good practice to drain it when the car's level:

SERVICE INFORMATION
LS1 OIL CHANGE

Vehicle must be level. (VERY IMPORTANT.) The butterfly oil pan must be level for all the oil to drain.
Allow a MINIMUM OF 7 MINUTES for the oil to drain fully after the oil filter and oil drain plug have been removed. There are oil galleries in the LS1 that need time to drain fully.
Allow a MINIMUM OF 3 MINUTES for the new oil to fully fill the engine oil pan before starting the engine.


Still reading full on the dipstick today after six quarts, I'm guess I'm going to leave it that way, since I don't want to overfill. Will keep an eye on it, though.
some boneheads, I can believe it though, an air wrench to install the oil drian plug. :mad: that's why I do all my own maintence too.
Anyway, that is a good idea about filling(priming) the oil filter, I do this too, that way at start up, your engine does not "strave" for oil, as the engine waits for the pump to start the pumping process.
 
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