LS1GTO Forums banner

1 - 20 of 33 Posts

·
Mr Fingers to you
Joined
·
2,711 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I dont mean when to change oil. I mean in the "how to" section.

Old posts say use ramps, other say DOnt use ramps and all of these are months old.

So for the guys that have been changing the oil many times themselves.

What is the correct way??

I have read about the plate under the car.

Any helpful tips would be appreciated.

Not to be too newbly, I just want to do it the correct way without surprises
 

·
Wooohooo
Joined
·
3,381 Posts
silverbugeye said:
I dont mean when to change oil. I mean in the "how to" section.

Old posts say use ramps, other say DOnt use ramps and all of these are months old.

So for the guys that have been changing the oil many times themselves.

What is the correct way??

I have read about the plate under the car.

Any helpful tips would be appreciated.

Not to be too newbly, I just want to do it the correct way without surprises
My store bought metal ramps are too steep for the low front profile of the GTO. So I made a set out of 2x10 lumber. 4 peices of gradually shorter lengths which gave myself enough room for sriving the goat onto the ramps and clear the front facia. Works great.
As far as the front plate covering the oil oan. Remove 3 of the 4 bolts. Leave the 4th loose and swing it around out the way. Can leave it attached that way instead of fighting it to the ground.

Ramp dimensions are as follows:
bootom board is 48"
2nd is 36"
4th is 26"
top board is 15" with a small angled stop screwed into it. They work great and are very steady. Been using the same set since 97 when I got my first camaro and the work just as good with the GTO.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
329 Posts
worth noting is the drain plug and skid plate bolts are all 13mm. Save you from carrying a handful out to the car with you knowing that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
113 Posts
This is the method that's works best for me. If you have a slopping driveway back the car in. SET THE PARKING BRAKE. Jack up the driver's side front and place a jack stand under it. Remove all but the rear driver's side bolt from the skid plate and swing the plate out of the way. Give it 20 minutes so all the oil drains back into the pan and then remove the drain plug and let gravity do it's work.
 

·
Snapper Head
Joined
·
56 Posts
Speaking as a tech..... Do yourself a favor and get a jack and four or min. 2 jack stands.... Ramps or variations of them are death traps. If you're going to do it yourself do it right and don't leave a corpse in the driveway after your fresh oil change.... Incorrect use of ramps have killed many people over the years. I've been a tech for 20 years and I still do it right and I bounce on the car to make sure it's sturdy and also I have my wife check on my from time to time if I'm taking too long. Call me paranoid but I'm still alive.....
Taking your time and being safe never killed anyone....
 

·
13 year owner
Joined
·
16,379 Posts
As another tech, for simple oil changes, I prefer the ramps. I've never seen or heard anyone being crunched under them. Not that Jackstands are bad (I use my 6 ton capacity units all the time), just that for a simple oil change, you spend more time getting your car in the air than doing the change itself.

Most newer ramps also have plastic extenda ramps that cut the angle for lower cars. I use mine all the time between my fleet.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
246 Posts
also when draining this LS1 you are supposed to let it drain for 45 minutes because of all the small oil galleries. make sure to allow some time for that.
 

·
13 year owner
Joined
·
16,379 Posts
I do, but that's not an LS1 specific thing. I just do it on all vehicles cause I'm anal retentive.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
262 Posts
I have a set of plastic Rhino ramps -- they fit under the GTO with room to spare.. I don't worry too much about letting the oil drain forever, I figure I'm changing it before its too bad anyway -- and the volume left in the motor isn't that significant anyway... :) Maybe I'm just impatient... lol.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
246 Posts
I took a 8 foot long 6X6 of treated Lumber and cut it with a chainsaw......I cut a real nice long slope, so it never hits the front air dam on the cars, and its also MUCH MUCH stronger than any ramps you buy at local auto stores.
I also welded a super set for my truck, they are 14 inches tall and are solid angle-iron......Only problem is that they weigh 80 Lbs EACH!!!!!!!
 

·
13 year owner
Joined
·
16,379 Posts
At one time, I thought about making a full drive up like lift for the cars from wood so that they'd be 2-3 feet off the ground and perfect for any undercarriage work. But I abandoned that plan as I realized...Where the heII am I gonna put it when not in use. :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
367 Posts
I use a walk-under pit. No need to raise car, just walk under and change. Sorry, not something most of you can just put together in a moments notice (nice to have a dad that makes his own stuff...)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
81 Posts
It's easy:

1. Drive car into workshop
2. Swing hoist arms under car
3. Raise to comfortable height
4. Wheel oil collection barrel under car
5. Proceed as above...
 

·
3Deucesanda5speedanda455
Joined
·
411 Posts
Any other helpful tips??
Keep checking the dipstick as you fill it, as I don't believe that it holds 6.5 quarts. I just changed mine last week, and serviced it to 6.5, and drove it to work (185 miles)

My mileage was way off (17-18 air off vs 22+ air on with break in oil, on the same drive), and at low rpm (off idle to aboutr 2000 rpm), it felt like it was lugging a bit (windage?). I checked it when level before driving home last night, and it was off the scale full. I filled up in Orlando to get a good MPG reading, and it was 18 again. I've been driving an LS1 powered vehicle on this same route for 4 years, and have never gotten less than 20 MPG, and that was with a lot of full throttle passes and hitting every light. Usually the Formula got closer to 24. I did the drive with the GTO twice with the original oil in it, and got over 22 mpg on both trips. The only change was the oil and filter, so I believe that it is overfull!

I took out about half a quart today and it is still a little over full. I've got to drive it to Lauderdale tomorrow, so I'll get a good reading on whether it's still too full or not.

FWIW, my old LS1 did the same thing when I accidentally over serviced it by 1 quart (It called for 5.5 quarts). I think the capacity is the same as the F body (5.5 with a filter change), even though it has a different pan than the F body.

Maybe you guys who can't get more than 18 mpg have too much oil in the crankcase (or just a lead foot ;) )?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
206 Posts
You think ramps are a pain? Thy putting a porsche 944 on them (I call it my go-cart).

I have a question about the correct arm positions for a lift. I have the good fortune of being able to use a lift for $2.50 a half hour. I took mine down to do my first oil change and let them put it up. 2 different people positioned the left and right sides. One put the arms all the way to the outside edge and the other side was farther in. Which is the correct position?

It did take me over 6 quarts to get it full btw.
 

·
Member #804
Joined
·
5,539 Posts
I put the rack under the front uni body frame rail. The rear I put under the rear control arm mounts (you will see a big bolt head).

6quarts is normal.
 

·
Great Lakes Moderator
Joined
·
2,358 Posts
Lift? what lift?? I've changed mine several times without a lift or jacks... I just slide under the nose and loosen the skidpan bolts and change the oil. Maybe it helps that I'm 6'4" and have long arms... I'm more concerned about keeping the car semi-level, because of the front sump. If I used jackstands, I'd use four as to not jack the front of the car higher than the rear.
 

·
Stroker Ace
Joined
·
125 Posts
Tripower455 said:
Keep checking the dipstick as you fill it, as I don't believe that it holds 6.5 quarts. I just changed mine last week, and serviced it to 6.5, and drove it to work (185 miles)

My mileage was way off (17-18 air off vs 22+ air on with break in oil, on the same drive), and at low rpm (off idle to aboutr 2000 rpm), it felt like it was lugging a bit (windage?). I checked it when level before driving home last night, and it was off the scale full. I filled up in Orlando to get a good MPG reading, and it was 18 again. I've been driving an LS1 powered vehicle on this same route for 4 years, and have never gotten less than 20 MPG, and that was with a lot of full throttle passes and hitting every light. Usually the Formula got closer to 24. I did the drive with the GTO twice with the original oil in it, and got over 22 mpg on both trips. The only change was the oil and filter, so I believe that it is overfull!

I took out about half a quart today and it is still a little over full. I've got to drive it to Lauderdale tomorrow, so I'll get a good reading on whether it's still too full or not.

FWIW, my old LS1 did the same thing when I accidentally over serviced it by 1 quart (It called for 5.5 quarts). I think the capacity is the same as the F body (5.5 with a filter change), even though it has a different pan than the F body.

Maybe you guys who can't get more than 18 mpg have too much oil in the crankcase (or just a lead foot ;) )?

You are supposed to let the oil settle to the bottom before checking the dip stick otherwise It'll read less than what is actually in there, therefore you put more oil in overfilling it.
 

·
3Deucesanda5speedanda455
Joined
·
411 Posts
bigMAC said:
You are supposed to let the oil settle to the bottom before checking the dip stick otherwise It'll read less than what is actually in there, therefore you put more oil in overfilling it.
After driving 185 miles, then after sitting for 3 days, it read off the scale on the full side.

I had to take almost a quart out to get it in the normal range, and it is much happier now!

My other LS1 took 5.5 quarts with a filter, and I used to service it to 6, due to the insatiable oil appetite it had. I suspect that this one has the same capacity.
 
1 - 20 of 33 Posts
Top