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Captain Thread Killer returns
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21,898 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
The whole piston slap issue is making me worry more. Should I switch to a heavier grade oil in the summer heat? 10w30? It is already getting considerably hotter here in Florida. I have the noise which does kind of sound like a diesel. It does go away after warm-up. Will the heavier oil help ease the knocking?
 

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Go Tigers!
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2,455 Posts
Chill out on the noise

These engines have been running since the 1997 Vette. I have
not heard anyone ever have engine failure or whatever when hearing
piston slap. I know it can sound bad, but 8 years of the LS1 is
along time for the engine to be out and find out any problems.
Enjoy!
 

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13 year owner
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16,379 Posts
For every GM car/truck with the LS1 or Vortec derivative that has a serious issue with Piston slap, there are 100 without. Your worries are truly pshychologically (sp?) driven by doom and gloom stories you read on the net.

And for what it's worth, if you look in the owners manual, you will see that a heavier weight (I.E. 10W) is actually recommended for temps above 32. I prefer 10W actually and generally only use a 5W in the dead of winter here when immediate pumping through the engine is necessary in such cold.
 

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Knight Errant
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1,800 Posts
3,000 miles coming up...

As soon as I hit 3,000 I am changing up to Mobil 1 and will make the viscosity jump to 10W/30 as well. The temperatures up here now are 40's at night and 50's during the day, except for an occassional teaser where the sun actually comes out and the temperature might actually go near or over 70, the ususal average for this time of year. Who was the addle pated idiot that termed this Global Warming anyway? Warming my.....butt!
 

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Knight Errant
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1,800 Posts
Vote

Yellow Jacket M6 said:
The idiots that say we have global warming are the same ones that would outlaw
our cars if they got a chance. Make sure you vote!
Always!...The choice is simple...pro GTO or anti-GTO... :sneaky:
 

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13 year owner
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16,379 Posts
I went 10W-30 on the first change. It quiets things down a bit.
 

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Knight Errant
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As always..

CMNTMXR57 said:
I went 10W-30 on the first change. It quiets things down a bit.
Thanks for the tip! Less noise = More happy! :thumbs:
 

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Registered
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Yellow Jacket M6 said:
The idiots that say we have global warming are the same ones that would outlaw
our cars if they got a chance. Make sure you vote!
Remember it is only the politicians that claim there is no global warming. It is kind of like the cigarette companys claiming that their product doesn't cause cancer or heart desease. The real argument is whether the current global warming is natural or manmade or somewhere in between. In any event the global warming indicates that we are headed for another ice age in another 10,000 years or so. Stock up on flannel underwear now!!! Of course Hollywood says it will occur the "Day after Tomorrow" In the mean time I will be using Mobil1 10W-30.
:drink: :drink:
 

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13 year owner
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16,379 Posts
That's why I enjoy life NOW!!
 

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Knight Errant
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1,800 Posts
Massachusetts

Well, where I live must be where the new Ice Cap will go. It's nearly June and we haven't had three days in a row that we got to 70*. It's been 50's by day, 40's by night. If it drops a few more degrees and keeps raining like it has, we'll be on our way!
 

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Moderator
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Old Goat said:
Well, where I live must be where the new Ice Cap will go. It's nearly June and we haven't had three days in a row that we got to 70*. It's been 50's by day, 40's by night. If it drops a few more degrees and keeps raining like it has, we'll be on our way!
Makes me want to re-think moving to Maine.... Anyway, I think I may just heed Mr. CMT and Mr. Old Goat's advice and change over to the 10W30 on my next oil change. Besides, the parts house has it in stock and only has 2 quarts of the 5w30 left. Sweetest deal I have ever found, 1.79 a quart. I am going to buy them out of the 10W30... :p :D :bubbrub :drink:
 

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13 year owner
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16,379 Posts
Honestly, even if you look in the manual, in that chart they always provide, even they show that if ran anywhere from 32* and above, a 10W oil is better.
 

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Old GTO Owner
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2,812 Posts
10W30 Mobil 1 will flow at -15F, I have tried it by placing a bottle in the freezer. I run 10W30 M1 all year round in all my vehicles. Never any problems. And I am just south of Boston.
 

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Knight Errant
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1,800 Posts
Good to know

mrgto said:
10W30 Mobil 1 will flow at -15F, I have tried it by placing a bottle in the freezer. I run 10W30 M1 all year round in all my vehicles. Never any problems. And I am just south of Boston.
Good to know Chris, and good to hear vastly reduced noises from the engine on cold start this morning. Last winter though you could have proofed it to -20* a few times just by leaving it outdoors where I was. Got the planned 3,000 mile stepup to Mobil 1 in 10W/30 yesterday, and was a tad surprised but not overly worried at a very slight bit of aluminum seen in the removed 5W/30 dino oil. Absolutely no ferrous metals. Drain plug clean. I'll be keeping an eye on it. :sneaky:
 

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Upstairs in the basement
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396 Posts
Old Goat said:
As soon as I hit 3,000 I am changing up to Mobil 1

It only took me 200 miles to make the jump to Mobil 1. I always change my oil within 200-500 miles on a new motor. I did leave it at 5w30 though. All my cars in the last 5 years have had 5w30 in them year round (with the exception of the GTP which came with 10w30) and I raced all of them but the Avalanche. No ill effects nor piston slap in either of my two Corvettes (02 LS1 & 03 LS6) or the 5.3 in the Avlanche.
 

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Knight Errant
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1,800 Posts
500 / 1500 / shift at 3000 approximately

The first three loads were dino oil for me (including the one she came with). I wanted to be sure all the aluminum flashing, etc. had loosened and come free and her rings and other parts lapped and set good before making the jump to synthetic. :)
 

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Can't help ya, Sorry.
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Old Goat said:
The first three loads were dino oil for me (including the one she came with). I wanted to be sure all the aluminum flashing, etc. had loosened and come free and her rings and other parts lapped and set good before making the jump to synthetic. :)
Wouldn't synthetic work just as well for those tasks? From my understanding of oil, I can not see a reason that it would not. The main benifit of synthetic is that it does not break down like dino oil. It still acts like dino does with the added benifit that when the dino "wears out", the synthetic is still good apart from any particulate that the filter is unable to remove.
 

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Mod Hungry... Empty Wallet
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sxty8goats said:
Wouldn't synthetic work just as well for those tasks? From my understanding of oil, I can not see a reason that it would not. The main benifit of synthetic is that it does not break down like dino oil. It still acts like dino does with the added benifit that when the dino "wears out", the synthetic is still good apart from any particulate that the filter is unable to remove.
This is a great question... if the vettes have it out of the factory, this tells me it is good enough. Why would this be wrong?
 

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Can't help ya, Sorry.
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Huntress said:
This is a great question... if the vettes have it out of the factory, this tells me it is good enough. Why would this be wrong?
Honestly, the only reason I can think of is some of us do short changes. IE, one at 500, 1000 then 1500 before settling on a 3000 mile intervale. Dino would be cheaper for this and it isn't in the car long enough to break down. Otherwise, I can not think of one reason not to use synthetic.
 
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