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I’m very picky when it comes to leaks. I pulled the motor to do the pan gasket just because it left a drop the size of a dime on the ground after sitting. Very difficult to get everything to seal perfectly when done in the car. It can be done as you describe though.
 

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Engineering Machine Automotive exterior Metal Composite material

I was swapping long tubes so it was a bit easier. But you need to take the accessories off one side to slide it out to actually swap the baffle. Had to tighten my main bolts anyway. Just jacked up the motor from the trans.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
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I was swapping long tubes so it was a bit easier. But you need to take the accessories off one side to slide it out to actually swap the baffle. Had to tighten my main bolts anyway. Just jacked up the motor from the trans.
Dam I might just do that, you didn't fuck with the cradle at all? I don't have the ac compressor in the car and I could just remove the passenger header and slide it out that way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I’m very picky when it comes to leaks. I pulled the motor to do the pan gasket just because it left a drop the size of a dime on the ground after sitting. Very difficult to get everything to seal perfectly when done in the car. It can be done as you describe though.
Jesus christ 🤣 i thought about that but it's a pita to line up the input shaft through the clutch when you put it back in. The last 3 times I put the motor back in I had to drop the trans as well.
 

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Dam I might just do that, you didn't fuck with the cradle at all? I don't have the ac compressor in the car and I could just remove the passenger header and slide it out that way.
Nope. No reason to touch the cradle unless doing a sway bar. Pretty easy if it goes high enough. With no ac, that’s the way to go given how easy the ps long tube is to remove.
 

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at that point you might as well finish lifting it... up and out of the car, and onto an engine stand, lol.

the best way to do the oil pan alignment and bolt torque down is IN the car bolted to the transmission, though... so...
 

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at that point you might as well finish lifting it... up and out of the car, and onto an engine stand, lol.

the best way to do the oil pan alignment and bolt torque down is IN the car bolted to the transmission, though... so...
Yea, if you have a hoist, an engine stand and a place with enough room to do it.
If I had that kinda cash, I would just put a new motor in it each time there was a problem.
 

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I use harbor freight hoist and stand. I got them back when their coupons worked on the big items. Cheap and they work. I have to back the car into the garage and leave the door open to use the hoist or there is no room. I've never been afraid to do extra work to get things done right. Much better than when I was a kid changing the transmissions on the side of the street in front of my house. Didn't have a trans jack either just drop it down on your chest.

I've had much better luck mounting the pan and getting it lined up correctly on an engine stand. Back of pan must be flush with rear of motor and it works well no leaks not a single drop ever.
 
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I use harbor freight hoist and stand. I got them back when their coupons worked on the big items. Cheap and they work. I have to back the car into the garage and leave the door open to use the hoist or there is no room. I've never been afraid to do extra work to get things done right. Much better than when I was a kid changing the transmissions on the side of the street in front of my house. Didn't have a trans jack either just drop it down on your chest.

I've had much better luck mounting the pan and getting it lined up correctly on an engine stand. Back of pan must be flush with rear of motor and it works well no leaks not a single drop ever.
I still do transmissions this way ...
 

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I still do transmissions this way ...
Are you the Incredible Hulk? These transmissions are heavy as smurf. Now, the Muncie 4-speed in the Chevelle I can do, but even that pushes my limits anymore.
 

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You do not have to pull the motor. But, trying to drop the pan with removing the cradle is all but impossible. It is a real struggle and getting the motor to rises enough to clear the pick up is tough.

Get 2 2x4s and some blankets or other padding and place them on the fenders. Use two cheap
nylon binders on either sides. Hook them to the motor mount stands. Put tension on the binders. The drain the PS by disconnecting the the lines before the PS oil cooler.

Now that the motor is suspended, disconnect the steering rack from the steering shaft. Leave the rack on the cradle, and drop the cradle as a unit. Remove the struts too at the steering knuckle and let them hang on the upper mount. You do not have to remove accessories. Remove the cradle bolts and the calipers. The assembly comes out as one unit with hubs and tie rod attached.

Then its easy to take out the pan bolts and change the windage tray without struggling with tight clearances.
 

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You do not have to pull the motor. But, trying to drop the pan with removing the cradle is all but impossible. It is a real struggle and getting the motor to rises enough to clear the pick up is tough.

Get 2 2x4s and some blankets or other padding and place them on the fenders. Use two cheap
nylon binders on either sides. Hook them to the motor mount stands. Put tension on the binders. The drain the PS by disconnecting the the lines before the PS oil cooler.

Now that the motor is suspended, disconnect the steering rack from the steering shaft. Leave the rack on the cradle, and drop the cradle as a unit. Remove the struts too at the steering knuckle and let them hang on the upper mount. You do not have to remove accessories. Remove the cradle bolts and the calipers. The assembly comes out as one unit with hubs and tie rod attached.

Then its easy to take out the pan bolts and change the windage tray without struggling with tight clearances.
Seems like it would be easier to just pull the engine.
 

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Seems like it would be easier to just pull the engine.
given the option and the space, i agree.

if you're doing this stuff in your driveway or with limited space in a small garage, you might go with option B.

kind of like the difference between dropping the whole rear suspension and subframe for a bushing/swaybar/spring/damper/brake overhaul, or just doing it while everything is still in the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I use harbor freight hoist and stand. I got them back when their coupons worked on the big items. Cheap and they work. I have to back the car into the garage and leave the door open to use the hoist or there is no room. I've never been afraid to do extra work to get things done right. Much better than when I was a kid changing the transmissions on the side of the street in front of my house. Didn't have a trans jack either just drop it down on your chest.

I've had much better luck mounting the pan and getting it lined up correctly on an engine stand. Back of pan must be flush with rear of motor and it works well no leaks not a single drop ever.
I got a set of race ramp 12in wheel cribs. Makes life alot easier then those 12ton jack stands in the way under the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I dropped the subframe to fit a crank scraper and windage tray. Just left the subframe to hang from the suspension whilst I worked. Was slightly in the way but nothing you couldn't work around. Fitted it back up fine.
Probably going to do this and use the cherry picker to pick the motor up a few inches. I'll just mark the cradle with a marker so I don't fuck up the alignment when I put it back up
 

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I got a set of race ramp 12in wheel cribs. Makes life alot easier then those 12ton jack stands in the way under the car.
I’m poor I don’t want to spend the money on race ramps lol.
 
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