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Discussion Starter #1
So I replaced the rear main last year after blowing it out from too much crank case pressure. Thought I did a go job but noticed oil from the bell housing slit again. Not a lot but enough to not be normal.
Turns out it coming from the holes that the two oil pan bolts go though. It’s all torqued but idk if it’s the gaskets issue or should there be rtv all across the whole when putting the cover one not just the corner.
Really don’t wonna take the cover off as it’s aligned so well but also want this fixed while I’m pulling this broke rxt out.
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I put a thin smear of rtv there, iirc. With the cover centered with the new seal and bolted in to the block, when you put the long oil pan bolts in and torque, it may not seal 100% against the bottom of the cover, i think.
 

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I put a bead along the bottom of the cover where it meets the oil pan. To me it made no sense to have the seal ends where it does, put rtv in the corners and then leave that whole length of the cover unsealed.

I researched it at the time and nothing I found said to do it, so went with my gut.
 

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I think mine is leaking back there now too. I did the clutch a few years back and installed a new main seal even though the original wasn't leaking. Don't know what exactly is leaking now, but I wonder if I properly sealed the flywheel bolts to the crank. I think I installed them dry and aren't the flywheel bolt holes open to the crankcase? Kind of a dumb design if you ask me.

I wish the bellhousing had a better "window" to help see what is going on in there like the SBC and BBC versions where you can take the dust shield off.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I think mine is leaking back there now too. I did the clutch a few years back and installed a new main seal even though the original wasn't leaking. Don't know what exactly is leaking now, but I wonder if I properly sealed the flywheel bolts to the crank. I think I installed them dry and aren't the flywheel bolt holes open to the crankcase? Kind of a dumb design if you ask me.

I wish the bellhousing had a better "window" to help see what is going on in there like the SBC and BBC versions where you can take the dust shield off.
I know my bolts I pulled out had oil on the deep threads. But I do put a very small amount of loctite on them but I thought it was sealed off pretty well for that not to be an issue. Back of my flywheel is pretty clean. I can see the buildup from where it came through those holes and actually was being held in from sitting in the lower hole until you take the screws out.
 

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I may have loctited mine, I honestly don't recall. At first I thought the oil had leaked down there from the valve cover/head area as I had been working on a header install and rocker install and had the valve covers off multiple times and I think one was leaking already. There was oil on the starter so it seemed to make sense but oil in these places could be coming from multiple sources. Anyway, I cleaned it all up and we'll see if oil shows up again. I would REALLY hate to have to pull the transmission again, especially now since I now have headers on the thing.
 

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I used red loctite on the flywhel bolts with my LS7 clutch, and never had an issue. I have read that red loctite doesn't really make a good thread sealant, though.

Since the lt1-s came with modded factory bolts, which have thread "stuff" on them, i went with that. no issues so far.
 

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I am fighting a leak from the same joint. I pulled the engine, oil pan, rear cover, replaced rear main seal, and added a ton of RTV across the whole rear of the pan and corners. Put all back together and torqued per the service manual procedure, still leaks. Noticed it only leaks after the car is run for awhile and gets hot, like on a drain down of oil from the top of the engine to the pan. I almost feel like i need to check the flatness and flushness of the pan to block interface. Really annoying. I’m going to also try taking the 2 long bolts out and adding thread sealant/dope to the threads.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Unfortunately I didn’t get much run time on it after trying my fix. But I did add an extra amount of rtv around the holes.
Pulled out my bad rxt and put my old monster in as I have to send it in for repairs and it’s gonna be awhile. Then the slave went bad. Have to replace the input shaft as well.
So only ran for 30 minutes or so. Didn’t really make it off the jack stands. But it is dry so far.
 
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