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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi, I'm a new member and I'm trying to decide on a CAI. I have seen CA performance CAI's, Speed Induction CAI's, K&N's offroad CAI and Gravana's CAI. Which produces the best numbers? I saw one that supposedly got 17rwhp from K&N, one that got 14 rwhp from CS Performance (true Dyno Numbers from a member here). I haven't seen any actual dyno Numbers on Speed Inc. as well as the Gravana's. I would really appreciate everyone's opinion. Also, I'm seeing mixed reviews on the Diablo Predator Handheld Programmer. I see I can have Free custom Tuning with that as well from a Diablo Tuner on here as well. Is it worth it or should I take the Predator to MTI and let them dyno tune it that way? I want to get it dynoed so I can have a good starting point.For now, I'm trying to add a few bolt on's that won't kill the warranty on my new GTO. Just bought it Monday. These are the few bolt-ons I'm planning as for now:

BBK 80MM Throttle Body
SLP 85 MM MAF (maybe, heard it wasn't needed)
Speed Ind, K&N, CS Perf. or GAV's CAI
Diablo Hand Held Programmer (Custom Tuned)
Dyno Tuning

My GTO is a Black M6 with 3.46 Gears. Any info will help and opinions will help. Goal for now it go get 315rwhp and 345 rwtq. Thanks

Daryl
 

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Do you mean CS Performance? The carbon-fiber intake tubes? If so, yes, one member has seen 14rwhp from that. I don't know about the other CAIs, but if you go with a CS Performance intake tube and a K&N along with your other mods, you should be right at your target.

Also, if you're near MTI, I would go to them, let them tune it, rather than mess around with the Predator on your own. Spend the money you'd spend on a Predator on a custom dyno-tune. Best bang for the buck, IMO. :)

Good luck, congrats, and welcome!

Padre
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Will that custom Dyno tuned zap my warranty or can they put it back incase I have to take it in for diagnostic reasoning? I added a 72,000 mile warranty that I don't want to lose.
 

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Well, with HP Tuners or Predator, you can keep your stock tune, put it back when you need it, and not worry about the warranty. I'm sure MTI can save your stock tune and put it back pretty easily as well.

But with any mods that the dealer sees, you risk a hassle if you make a claim. Yes, you can make them prove that the mod caused the problem, but the odds are in their favor.

I don't know how much the MDMC 410 package is, but I'd guess $3k or so.

Like I said, if you're near MTI, go with them - I bet they could set you up with a package similar to the MDMC 410. I like going with someone local.

Padre
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hey Padre, I saw someone got an extra 30rwhp with the JBA Smog headers and no tuning whatsoever as well as no catback exhaust. I think I'll get a set of those before taking it to MTI, as well as the other parts minus the Predator. Hell, he doesn't even have a CAI on his GTO, although I will have one on mine as well as the other parts I mentioned. What do you think? By the way, are you in Tx?
 

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ogandbooboo said:
Hey Padre, I saw someone got an extra 30rwhp with the JBA Smog headers and no tuning whatsoever as well as no catback exhaust. I think I'll get a set of those before taking it to MTI, as well as the other parts minus the Predator. Hell, he doesn't even have a CAI on his GTO, although I will have one on mine as well as the other parts I mentioned. What do you think? By the way, are you in Tx?
Yeah, I saw that. Bet it sounds nice too. I'd go for it and then take it to MTI.

I used to live in El Paso, but now I'm back in Georgia. :)

Padre
 

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All CAI's will net roughly the same gain. I went from 299 to 314 with the Speed Inc unit. Dyno numbers can vary some from pull to pull. So if one gains 14 and another 17, for all intents and purposes, they net the same.

Hand held "box" programmers are a waste of money personally. Now if you don't have access to someone with LS1Edit and the knowledge of tuning on a dyno, then I soften my stance on them some. However, a pro tuner on a chassis dyno with EFI Live or LS1Edit can completely anc totally program the car to the "nenth" degree. A box programmer you only have a select amount of tables to alter and within them, a preset selection. You tell me which for the same level of money nets a better result.. As to warranty, this is a grey area, but technically "no" as there is no way to tell a programmed one from a stock one unless something stands out like a big thumb. Having certain emissions control devices turned off or their associated DTC type changed would raise a red flag, but nothing in the programming itself can be attributed to an aftermarket tune.

The TB and MAF aren't necessary and a waste of money also as the stock units already outflow the intake on the car as is. Then you'll say "what if I replace the intake?" Well all those out are extremely expensive and won't net you much either on a stock motor as the stock LS6 intake flows damn well and outflows the heads! On a side note, if it would fit under our hoods, the Vortec truck intake from the 5.3L V8 actually beats the LS6 and F.A.S.T. intake. But do to it's design, is a tight fit.

Anyway, you'll achieve those RWHP numbers with a simple CAI.

Sorry I didn't reply to your PM, I just figured it'd be quicker here.
 

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Mate, you already have a good package from factory, just change the MAF to TB tube, make an extra hole in the airbox, diff gears to 3.91 and tighten the LSD, and get either a MAF or MAFless LS1 Edit, make sure you have hi octane fuel in the car when it goes in for the Edit.

The car will be a totally different beast :)
 

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Choice of CAI is up to you and gains will all be very similar. I would be conservative and expect 10hp with one and be thrilled if you get more. Dyno tune is the way to go and really the only option if you do headers, cam, etc that require actual tuning.
The MAF and TB won't really get you much especially for the money you will drop. Bypass that and do some exhaust work. If you want very close to the OE tone and can't take it loud then i would toss up the header issue and high flow cats with the OE catback. Shorties, mids, LTs will soon be available. Depending on what you choose you will actually jump over your goal with those mods.
 

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Speedy Gonzales said:
Mate, you already have a good package from factory, just change the MAF to TB tube, make an extra hole in the airbox, diff gears to 3.91 and tighten the LSD, and get either a MAF or MAFless LS1 Edit, make sure you have hi octane fuel in the car when it goes in for the Edit.

The car will be a totally different beast :)
MAF won't net you chit! Temporarily it will due to leaning out of the A/F ratio, but once the O2's pick up this lean condition, they'll add more fuel to compensate then you're right back to square one with the stock MAF. The increased airflow through the bigger MAF's doesn't help as the stock MAF outflows the LS6 intake as is.
 

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CMNTMXR57 said:
MAF won't net you chit! Temporarily it will due to leaning out of the A/F ratio, but once the O2's pick up this lean condition, they'll add more fuel to compensate then you're right back to square one with the stock MAF. The increased airflow through the bigger MAF's doesn't help as the stock MAF outflows the LS6 intake as is.
I had to read that one twice but I think Speedy is suggesting changing the "MAF-to-TB tube" rather than changing the MAF itself.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Speedy Gonzales said:
Mate, you already have a good package from factory, just change the MAF to TB tube, make an extra hole in the airbox :)
Why do you have to put an extra hole in the Airbox? Just curious
 

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gto_in_nc said:
I had to read that one twice but I think Speedy is suggesting changing the "MAF-to-TB tube" rather than changing the MAF itself.
It still wouldn't matter! The MAF is still outflowed by the TB and Plenum anyway. The only difference being the intake tube, but you'd get the same results as with the stock MAF as the aftermarket MAF will return to the same A/F ratio as with the stock MAF once it "learns".
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Hey can anyone tell me why it's so hard for Hurst or Pro 5.0 to create a shifter for a reasonable price? I mean when lookin in the Jegs magazine the most expensive was the ripper shifter for a viper and it was $249, price might be alittle different now but still it's not $479. Can't understand what's hard about the shifter for our cars.
 

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BEcause of the shifter layout on this car. It isn't like the F-Bodies where you can bolt it right to the shifter box and drop your center console over it. The GTO's unit uses a linkage setup as the actual shifter location is further back. If you just bolt an F-Body aftermarket shifter, you'd have 1st, 3rd, 5th, and reverse in your stereo. :D
 
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