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Nothing
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53 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I found it. Can you believe it is located under the radiator overflow bottle right next to the drivers side exhaust manifold? Right next to the 2 things that PCM's hate most - water and heat. Go figure :slap:
 

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2005 CGM GTO
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1,523 Posts
Better than the placement in the Corvette. It's right below the battery which is famous for leaking. Before glass mats in 02 the battery would leak right on the PCM. Go figure.
 

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Registered Cruiser
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77 Posts
tterbo said:
I found it. Can you believe it is located under the radiator overflow bottle right next to the drivers side exhaust manifold? Right next to the 2 things that PCM's hate most - water and heat. Go figure :slap:
They don't seem to mind though.

Mick
 

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Master of Youngrushhour
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4,318 Posts
Does anyone know where the fuse is for the PCM? I looked at the fuse block under the hood and can't figure out if it is anyone of them. One of the Mags pulled it to refresh the torque management settings on the A4.

As an aside - did anyone get any spare fuses & fuse pulling tool? I got neither - which is unsusal for GM.
 

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250 Posts
Fuse panel

rushhour said:
Does anyone know where the fuse is for the PCM? I looked at the fuse block under the hood and can't figure out if it is anyone of them. One of the Mags pulled it to refresh the torque management settings on the A4.

As an aside - did anyone get any spare fuses & fuse pulling tool? I got neither - which is unsusal for GM.
The fuse panel is behind the panel under the steering column. Grab the top of the panel and pull back. One of those things that feels like it is going to break instead of releasing. :eek: I hate that. :(
 

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Registered Cruiser
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77 Posts
If you guys are tyring to do a PCM reset, go to this site. It details the procedure for a VT Commodore including location of fuses, tool, etc. I did this on mine yesterday and it works at treat. Car still started (the missus was happy about that) and it SEEMS to go a bit better.

http://www.mytired.com/cars/index.htm?page=car_rset.htm

Mick
 

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Snagging your fish!!!
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157 Posts
just wondering, anyone make some sort of a "heat shield" for the pcm?
 

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Knight Errant
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1,800 Posts
Heat Shield

UBDSLO1 said:
just wondering, anyone make some sort of a "heat shield" for the pcm?
Mine came with a fiber-resin panel sheathed on the engine side with aluminum foil as a heat shield. Another resin 'tab' is bonded to the PCM's side of the panel. The are two channels in the PCM's bracket that it slides into from the top. In place, it spans from the front subframe at the bottom up to the radiator bottle, and from the master cylinder at the rear, forward to the middle of the airbox. It does a good job in conjunction with the manifold stamped heat shield, but is Ugly with a capital U. I have been thinking on refacing it with a sheet of aluminum painted with Sperex VHT White. Interesting to note that I have been unable to find any reference to the panel in the Shop Manuals so far...

Since I will probably be stuck with the stock manifolds for a while I finish the refresh on the S-10, I have been looking for ways to improve the exhaust heat shielding under the hood generally. I have removed the passenger side exhaust manifold heat shield, given it the white Sperex treatment front and back, and put it back. It works, and greatly reduced the radiated heat to the stuff on the passenger fenderwell and subframe rail. As soon as I can figure how to get the lower heat shield bolt back in (out is easy) on the driver's side (REALLY tight clearance) I'll do it on that side too.
 

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GTOholic
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1,504 Posts
Ah, Old Goat, you've given me another idea for an appearance mod... painting those heat sheilds in the engine well. Some added color in the engine well would look good, and high heat spray paint is a cheap mod. I've painted my brake calipers and front "honeycomb" grill, and both projects turned out GREAT.

On a side note, the Chevy S-10 pickup truck seems to be VERY popular around here. There are several on the strip in various states of modification, one of which is friggin' FAST. I don't know what he's packin', but I've looked inside the engine well of another S-10 and there seems to be room for ANYTHING. And how much does that truck weight, 500 pounds? :) Fun stuff.
 

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Knight Errant
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1,800 Posts
Fun truck

FLORIT said:
Ah, Old Goat, you've given me another idea for an appearance mod... painting those heat sheilds in the engine well. Some added color in the engine well would look good, and high heat spray paint is a cheap mod. I've painted my brake calipers and front "honeycomb" grill, and both projects turned out GREAT.

On a side note, the Chevy S-10 pickup truck seems to be VERY popular around here. There are several on the strip in various states of modification, one of which is friggin' FAST. I don't know what he's packin', but I've looked inside the engine well of another S-10 and there seems to be room for ANYTHING. And how much does that truck weight, 500 pounds? :) Fun stuff.
I bought my 82 3/4 ton Long Bed with a dead 2.8 but unblemished body, the yard also had an 86 305 from a Camaro rollover. I picked the TH-350 out of a pile based on the factory Ink markings on the bellhousing. A little rebuilding magic, a ton of skinned knuckles, some engine mounts from Transdapt, and a ton of goodies later, and Voila!, a little screamer was born. As an interesting side note, the wife that made me get rid of the Big Block Chevelle and two spare motors, all the shop tools, books, and magazine subscriptions, said 'If you buy that thing I'm leaving you!' I said 'D***, I'll miss you!, Leave the kids.'... :D
 

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Knight Errant
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1,800 Posts
Color

Old Goat said:
I bought my 82 3/4 ton Long Bed with a dead 2.8 but unblemished body, the yard also had an 86 305 from a Camaro rollover. I picked the TH-350 out of a pile based on the factory Ink markings on the bellhousing. A little rebuilding magic, a ton of skinned knuckles, some engine mounts from Transdapt, and a ton of goodies later, and Voila!, a little screamer was born. As an interesting side note, the wife that made me get rid of the Big Block Chevelle and two spare motors, all the shop tools, books, and magazine subscriptions, said 'If you buy that thing I'm leaving you!' I said 'D***, I'll miss you!, Leave the kids.'... :D
I don't think it matters what heat resistant color you put on the outside, but definitely use white or silver on the side you don't see to maintain the reflectivity. I also wish now that I had pulled the exhaust manifolds and given them the VHT Nu-coat treatment to protect them from rusting. I may have to do that on the driver's side to get at the lower heat shield bolt anyway. Yay! Another project! Oh!, and antiseize every bolt you pull. I couldn't believe they used (5) 9.8 strength little 10mm bolts to hold each heat shields on. They could have chintzed there and put the money in the transmission.... ;)
 

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Knight Errant
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1,800 Posts
Well, the results are in. The newly white Sperex coated heat shields are in and 'cooked', many skinned knucles and pairs of nitrile gloves later. Though I antiseized everything, I was able to keep them pristine before cooking. The difference in radiated heat is amazing. I can put my hand down either side while the LS1 is idling away and cycling the cooling fans without discomfort. Don't think I'll touch them though...;>) I may have just made the resin board redundant. Starter Heat Shiled next! They look TONS better than raw pressed tin as a nice side benefit
 

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GTOholic
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1,504 Posts
Old Goat said:
They look TONS better than raw pressed tin as a nice side benefit
Post some pics, if possible. I'd like to check that out. A "parts list" of the paint you used would be helpful, too. These are the kind of mods I don't mind doing myself 'cause I'm not likely to screw it up.
 

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Knight Errant
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1,800 Posts
Paint types and numbers

The Heat paint I used is Sperex VHT White, #VHT-21, 1500* temperature resistant. Dupli-Color Bright Beauty High Heat 1200* White, #BH-204 will also work. Both companies make various colors. I did both sides white for simplicity, but the underside should definitely be white for maximum reflectivity. The outside could be almost any color except black (radiates heat). Both companies make various colors. Sperex VHT also makes Hi-Temp Nu-Coat, #SP-998, Cast Iron color, for restoring the as new color, sealing against corrosion, and protecting the exhaust manifolds. I will get a neighbor over here with a digital camera later tonight. Mine is in the Persian Gulf with #1 son. I will post pics ASAHP. I am still mulling over beautifying the stock panel that slides on to protect the PTM on the Driver's side, maybe a mirror panel or engine turned aluminum re-creation or leaving it out altogether, now that the heat treatment drastically reduced the radiant heat...Hmmmm.
 
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